what kind of tube to use
- Thread starter N-Smooth
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
This may help you understand a little more...
Tube Info
That being said, I use 1 5/8" x .120" HREW for Bumpers, Sliders and will use about 80% HREW when I build my cage. For the areas that will take the most abuse, I'll use 1 5/8" x .120" DOM.
DOM is more expensive than HREW & (depending on size) you can get DOM for around $2.00/ft.
Tube Info
That being said, I use 1 5/8" x .120" HREW for Bumpers, Sliders and will use about 80% HREW when I build my cage. For the areas that will take the most abuse, I'll use 1 5/8" x .120" DOM.
DOM is more expensive than HREW & (depending on size) you can get DOM for around $2.00/ft.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Of course, there are alot of different variables, but in most cases ya can't go wrong with DOM vs. HREW. The cost and weight difference is minimal, and I have yet to hear someone wish they had used weaker materials after constructing a cage using DOM. 
Sure there are instances where weight is a concern and HREW is more appropriate, but it can be used in conjunction with DOM. For example, Carl's (aka I Lean) chassis was constructed using both. Anything structural or that will come in contact with rocks is DOM. Seat mounts, fuel cell mounts, and misc. interior support pieces are HREW.
Since you asked about pricing, here it goes... You can expect to pay $2.05/ft. or $40/stick for 1 1/2"x.120 DOM wall and $2.45/ft. or $41/stick for 1 3/4"x.120 wall DOM. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
Sure there are instances where weight is a concern and HREW is more appropriate, but it can be used in conjunction with DOM. For example, Carl's (aka I Lean) chassis was constructed using both. Anything structural or that will come in contact with rocks is DOM. Seat mounts, fuel cell mounts, and misc. interior support pieces are HREW.
Since you asked about pricing, here it goes... You can expect to pay $2.05/ft. or $40/stick for 1 1/2"x.120 DOM wall and $2.45/ft. or $41/stick for 1 3/4"x.120 wall DOM. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
You didn't say if it was for your XJ, but I'll assume it is... Of course, your roof, doors, rear hatch, and support pillars will take some of the impact if ya roll. In that case, HREW may be better for your application. In the case of Cody's ZJ, the cage not only has to be able to take a good roll, but support what little unibody is left, so there was no question what type of material to use.
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okay
cool thanks for the info guys. so let me get this straight...
weight differences are minimal, same with strength, but dom is stronger?
i think what you said makes sense about using hrew for interior junk and dom for the stuff that takes the beating.
i am planning on building most of my cage with 2 inch .120 wall dom and some smaller gussets and cross supports with 1.5 inch .120 wall. i am not sure that i will have anything to build with hrew but we will see. i think i am going to build my rear subframe with some 3" square tube probably .250 wall. sound good?
-nate
cool thanks for the info guys. so let me get this straight...
weight differences are minimal, same with strength, but dom is stronger?
i think what you said makes sense about using hrew for interior junk and dom for the stuff that takes the beating.
i am planning on building most of my cage with 2 inch .120 wall dom and some smaller gussets and cross supports with 1.5 inch .120 wall. i am not sure that i will have anything to build with hrew but we will see. i think i am going to build my rear subframe with some 3" square tube probably .250 wall. sound good?
-nate
hmmm
there is not much left of my xj. look at my pics in the sig and see for yourself... no doors, no rear hatch and soon to be not much roof. like is said in my last post i am going to cut the whole rearend off and build a real frame for it. i am also going to brace the uniframe all the way to the front. that all tied into a cage sounds pretty strong to me. i was also planning on building some rockers like cody has, just replacing the rockers with a big piece of square tube.
-nate
there is not much left of my xj. look at my pics in the sig and see for yourself... no doors, no rear hatch and soon to be not much roof. like is said in my last post i am going to cut the whole rearend off and build a real frame for it. i am also going to brace the uniframe all the way to the front. that all tied into a cage sounds pretty strong to me. i was also planning on building some rockers like cody has, just replacing the rockers with a big piece of square tube.
-nate
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Just to be clear, DOM is indeed stronger than HREW. Also, the HREW has a machine welded seam that runs the length of it. Not a big deal, but technically, you should chuck it up in a way that the seam is on the inside of your bend(s), so it is less likely to split on impact. Honestly, I have never seen this actually happen, but it's possible.
Also, 2" is kinda overkill IMHO for an XJ internal cage, but thats up to you. If this is because of the bender die you have, cool. However, internal cages can end up being mighty obtrusive when large OD material is used, especially around the dash and where the driver's and passenger's feet go. Headroom can also be a potential problem.
Just giving ya feedback...
Also, 2" is kinda overkill IMHO for an XJ internal cage, but thats up to you. If this is because of the bender die you have, cool. However, internal cages can end up being mighty obtrusive when large OD material is used, especially around the dash and where the driver's and passenger's feet go. Headroom can also be a potential problem.
Just giving ya feedback...
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
xj_punk said:
I see now... We were posting at the same time there. Well, if you're ditching the roof too, then using 1 3/4" or 2" DOM is quite appropriate. How you execute the plan is the challenge. Unibodies are super, don't ya think?
Take lots of pics. okay
yeah i was going to use 2" because i know my uncle has that die for his jd2... but i am pretty sure he has a 1.75 and 1.5" die. what do you think would be most appropriate? i could use 2" for the pillar and then smaller for the triangulation and supports. i don't think it will be very internal, i will actually probably exo the cab because i am tall and i have a big head and i kind of like my brain being in my head rather then on the rollbar. i can't really say anything is for certain right now, but i am taking the heep to my uncles today to start working on it.
thanks
-nate
p.s. we posted at the same time again.
I HATE UNIBODIES!!!!!!!! if this was a yj i would have been done building it a long long long time ago. there is too much thinking to be done when building a uniframe... i have so many thoughts going through my head about structure that i can't focus in school (college sucks anyway). in the end it will be cool cause i built something to do things it couldn't have done before.
yeah i was going to use 2" because i know my uncle has that die for his jd2... but i am pretty sure he has a 1.75 and 1.5" die. what do you think would be most appropriate? i could use 2" for the pillar and then smaller for the triangulation and supports. i don't think it will be very internal, i will actually probably exo the cab because i am tall and i have a big head
and i kind of like my brain being in my head rather then on the rollbar. i can't really say anything is for certain right now, but i am taking the heep to my uncles today to start working on it. thanks
-nate
p.s. we posted at the same time again.
I HATE UNIBODIES!!!!!!!! if this was a yj i would have been done building it a long long long time ago. there is too much thinking to be done when building a uniframe... i have so many thoughts going through my head about structure that i can't focus in school (college sucks anyway). in the end it will be cool cause i built something to do things it couldn't have done before.
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Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
spencurai said:
Spence, did you miss the part about him cutting the entire top off? I also think 2" is overkill, but since your not working within the confines of a top, you have that option without sacrificing interior space, unlike the "Hero" XJ Spence is referring to.
Speaking of the Hero, I saw it do a little diggin' in Moab. You guys did a pretty damn good job. I especially like how low it is.
man i have always loved your setup herz... your jeep inspires me!
but there is no way i could have an internal cage in the cab area cause today i was cruising around and i bumped my head on the door pillar... well my jeep has no shocks so i don't expect to ride like a porsche or anything. but even when i get shocks, i don't like the idea of bashing my skull against steel... i prefer pillows.
have you ever wanted to go into your garage, sawzall in hand and go to work on your top? cause man i am STOKED to use my uncle's plasma cutter on everything i can!!!!! the cherokee is under the electric knife this upcoming weekend! really though, do you wish you didn't have a top sometimes... i think everyone does sometimes but would you rather have a top all-around?
btw are those d44's i see?
later
-nate
but there is no way i could have an internal cage in the cab area cause today i was cruising around and i bumped my head on the door pillar... well my jeep has no shocks so i don't expect to ride like a porsche or anything. but even when i get shocks, i don't like the idea of bashing my skull against steel... i prefer pillows.
have you ever wanted to go into your garage, sawzall in hand and go to work on your top? cause man i am STOKED to use my uncle's plasma cutter on everything i can!!!!! the cherokee is under the electric knife this upcoming weekend! really though, do you wish you didn't have a top sometimes... i think everyone does sometimes but would you rather have a top all-around?
btw are those d44's i see?
later
-nate
xj_punk said:
Yeah, I smack my head every once in a while. Not often enough to cause problems though.
Seriously though, get some shocks on there. I had a recent experience without no rear shocks. I can't believe the difference in how it handles on the rocks.Anyways, yeah. I get the urge to cut it apart all the time. But I've got another project under way now, so the cherokee stays as it is.
limegrnxj said:
Honestly, I have no idea how much lift it has. I've messed with it so much. For example, the rear leafs are only 4.5", no blocks or anything.
Most of it is fender clearance. The springs (coils & leafs) are Rubicon Express, but I built all of the arms and links. It actually looks alot taller in that second picture than it really is. Optical illusion?