Where to get toy front axle rebuilt

[193kyle]

I need to get my axle rebuilt so I can do my SAS, but I am not sure if I want to do it myself. I have the full rebuild kit-seals, bearings, etc. Just wondering if anyone knows any shops in the Ogden area that would do a good job for cheap?

 

[O'neal]

You can do it! Got a book and some time.....Gain some toy axle rebuild experience and save alittle coin

 

[193kyle]

Well that's the problem, i don't have a lot of time. I have a buyer for my other truck so that means I need to get my SAS done pretty quick.

 

[leorn]

you should make time to take the thing apart. give yourself a saturday and you should have more than enough time. odds are you or a buddy will need to do so on a trail sometime. If you know what your in for you can do it quick. it's nice when you can fix something quickly on the trail.

I had absolutely no clue about axles, but i bought a book and installed my longfields and my axle has held up well. I never worry about a breakage because i know i'll be able to clear it up to get off the trail.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Get your hands dirty
http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html

Everybody that wheels a rig with birfs should do it at least once at home

 

[193kyle]

Is there any special tools I will need. I know I need a brass drift and a small fish scale for measuring the resistance in the knuckles. Do I need a press for any of the bearings or anything like that?

 

[Paul R]

Is there any special tools I will need.

A hub socket makes things nice.

 

[notajeep]

It is easy, you can do it. With a little practice you will become fast.
i can swap a broken Birf on the trail in less that 20 min. Remember pinicle last year?

 

[leorn]

tools

Is there any special tools I will need. I know I need a brass drift and a small fish scale for measuring the resistance in the knuckles. Do I need a press for any of the bearings or anything like that?

no need for a press

going by memory:
54mm socket $20
knuckle pull scale $10
snap ring pliers
and your standard 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets.

Read the link above, but the hard part will be the cone washers to take off the hub. I used to use a really small screwdriver (like for eyeglasses) and tap in into the split of the washer. The last time I did it I just used a $20 propane torch to heat them up and beat on it with the old rubber mallet. I like the torch method much better.

don't know if thats the best way, but thats how I have done it.

 

[O'neal]

Those cone washer's can be alittle tough.I used a BFH and tapped around the hub to break them free,just be sure to leave the nut's on the thread's because when the cone's loosen up they will fly out.It's no fun trying to figure out where they ended up at

 

[193kyle]

Well, i got it all torn down, got the housing all cleaned and painted, and decided to order some 30 spline Longs. When I go to put back together should I fill the whole knuckle with grease or just the birf, I have heard of doing it either way? Also any tips on shimming the knuckles? Both knuckles were way loose when I pulled it apart so I obviously can't put the same shims back in, is there a certain amount of shims thats good to start with or do they vary quite a bit? Thanks for the help.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Well, i got it all torn down, got the housing all cleaned and painted, and decided to order some 30 spline Longs. When I go to put back together should I fill the whole knuckle with grease or just the birf, I have heard of doing it either way? Also any tips on shimming the knuckles? Both knuckles were way loose when I pulled it apart so I obviously can't put the same shims back in, is there a certain amount of shims thats good to start with or do they vary quite a bit? Thanks for the help.

You won't want to pack it completely full of grease, rather you pack the birf completely and then liberally apply grease to the inside of the knuckle... You will get premature seal failure if you pack it full...

The only realy way to correctly re-shim it is to have the SST (specialty service tool)... I have one that I have rarely used but that is the case when its needed. Not only do the shims control the knuckle pre-load, but also the location of the spindle with respect to the inner axle seal... if you have them out of whack, your inner axle will chew through inner axle seals faster than normal... and you can wear the brass bushing on the inside of the spindle. Its not as crucial in part-time 4WD rigs, but AWD Toyota axles or those that drive ALOT in 4WD are more prone. In fact Toyota later ditched the brass bushing and put a roller bearing inside the spindle , though I've never seen one for the older (79'-90') size.