Which clutch for my Toyota

chase3194

chase3194

Active Member
Location
Provo
My clutch went out in my 1993 22re Toyota pickup today I was able to pull the transmission and transfer case and get the pressure plate off and clutch removed. I have been researching which clutch to use. I would like to go to low range and get there ceramic 1600 clutch and pressure plate for 259 but on pirate 4x4 everyone says the good and bad thing is that the ceramic clutches don't slip. Now I do drive this truck to the trails every now and then. Low range also sells. Oem clutch for 149 that isn't ceramic and autozone/napa/oreilly sells one for 99. What are people on this forum using? I have 4.88 gearing in my axles and I'm running. Dana 60 rear and dana 44 front with 37 toyo open country mts.
 
No complaints with my centerforce, also no complaints with OEM. Me personally I would go with a dealer clutch over an auto parts store clutch. But thats just me
 
I've had great luck with the Autozone clutches. Plus they have a lifetime warranty, so when you fry it, you can get another one.
 
I'm with Steve. I've beat on the Toyota clutches from autozone and had great success. That said I went through 2 pilot bearings and 3 throwout bearings (2 in less than a year and all covered under warranty) before I finally swapped to Toyota/Japanese bearings. After that zero issues and thousands of miles :cool:
 
Really? Doesn't that just get annoying pulling the transmission every time? 5 of my 8 my transfercase bolts were seized and I had to drill the heads off and that sucked so bad. Even with my 37s? You don't think I'll burn through it really quick like I did this one?
 
Here is what my clutch and my flywheel look like. I am going to clean up my transmission and transfer case as well before it gets put back in.
null_zps4c442125.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
null_zps03e30af3.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
A heavy duty clutch will still wear out with 4.88's, 37's, and stock t-case gears. Once you go to duals or 4.7 tcase gears, a stock clutch will be just fine. In my opinion, you shouldn't have to slip the clutch at all to wheel a toyota. Let the clutch out in 1st, let it bog and almost die, then give it just enough gas to keep it from stallin. RPMs should be below 1000. As you know, with 4.7's or duals it'll crawl at idle speeds without any input from the accelerator pedal. Until you get lower t-case gears, you're just going to keep burning through clutches no matter what brand they are.

I would get japenese pilot and throwout bearings with a cheap autozone clutch and call it good.

I had an 85 4runner (22re) with a HD centerforce clutche. I hated it. Apart from the pedal being too stiff (a bad thing imho), it offered zero improvement over a stock or even AZ clutch.

Even marlin clutches will blow up if abused. Marlins are nice, but if your t-case is geared right, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference between a Marlin and a no-name autozone clutch.
 
Last edited:
chase3194 said:
Really? Doesn't that just get annoying pulling the transmission every time? 5 of my 8 my transfercase bolts were seized and I had to drill the heads off and that sucked so bad. Even with my 37s? You don't think I'll burn through it really quick like I did this one?
Click to expand...

Oh yes it really did till I replaced the bearings with good ones. A little heat from a butane torch goes a long ways on bolts threading into aluminum..

Anyway I've ran 35-37's on my 79 for a long time and have never had any disk, flywheel or pressure plate related issues. Steve is right if you ride a Toyota clutch--any Toyota clutch long term it will burn and destroy itself. Proper gearing is critical if you plan to do any serious 4wheeling in a Toyota (or anything for that matter).
 
sixstringsteve said:
A heavy duty clutch will still wear out with 4.88's, 37's, and stock t-case gears. Once you go to duals or 4.7 tcase gears, a stock clutch will be just fine. In my opinion, you shouldn't have to slip the clutch at all to wheel a toyota. Let the clutch out in 1st, let it bog and almost die, then give it just enough gas to keep it from stallin. RPMs should be below 1000. As you know, with 4.7's or duals it'll crawl at idle speeds without any input from the accelerator pedal. Until you get lower t-case gears, you're just going to keep burning through clutches no matter what brand they are.

I would get japenese pilot and throwout bearings with a cheap autozone clutch and call it good.

I had an 85 4runner (22re) with a HD centerforce clutche. I hated it. Apart from the pedal being too stiff (a bad thing imho), it offered zero improvement over a stock or even AZ clutch.

Even marlin clutches will blow up if abused. Marlins are nice, but if your t-case is geared right, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference between a Marlin and a no-name autozone clutch.
Click to expand...
7
Awesome I am going to do that. I wish i had the funds to get a doubler and 4.7 gearing right now while i have everything pulled, if my tax return would get here tomorrow I would do it all tomorrow
 
Looks like you have the W-series forward shift t-case/trans. With that in mind if you choose to keep a single case and run the 4.7 gears consider this option: http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=71435.0

I did this on mine and love it. It gives you the option of having 2-LO. This is nice for taking the bind off the drivetrain (especially on slickrock) when you don't need to be in 4wd but still want to crawl. Just an idea :cool:
 
I think 4.7s and duals are cool, but total overkill. If it were my rig and I were on a budget I would just get the 4.7s and forget about duals. That way you don't have to get a new tcase skid, or get your drive lines worked on. The overall crawl ratio is almost the same between duals and 4.7s. The main downside to 4.7s is that you can't drive around in 2.28:1 low. In other words, sometimes 4th gear in 4.7:1 is too slow and 1st gear in 2wd hi is too fast. I don't think I'd ever do dual ultimates again, it was overkill and nobody liked riding behind a guy who goes 1/4 mph.

Andrew is right about the twin stick, i used 2wd low a ton!
 
I have a set of dual t-cases, a fly wheel and clutch that I will sell ya for $600. Then you won't need to worry about any of it, just crossmember and drivelines. I even have a Marlin crawler long travel front drivline and a rear tha are set up for duals that I would throw in for $250 more. You could be setup with duals set up in your truck for lees than a $1000.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top