- Location
- West Haven, UT
Since you're going full hydraulic, do you have something in mind for the knuckles (Reid racing, or reinforcing them)?
Willys Crawler 2.0 aka The Bastard
- Thread starter Greg
- Start date
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I don't have a real plan yet, was going to just run the factory knuckles with high steer arms, then mount the rod ends for the steering between the high steer and stock knuckle. I wasn't planning on upgrading the knuckles and don't really have it in the budget.
I'm open to suggestions though! My last full hydro build used a single ended ram, so this is all new to me.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Looks like Dedenbear makes some pretty affordable, stronger knuckles that offer the 5th hole for steering arms. $289/ea.
www.rockstomper.com
Rockstomper - Product Ratings
www.rockstomper.com
- Location
- West Haven, UT
I looked through the thread and couldn't find which D60 you're using. Really doesn't matter, ford knuckles are the weakest, but the GM and dodge can also fail. Projects always have a ton of "might as wells," but I think an investment in strengthening the knuckles and steering connection is money well spent (esp with all the HP you just got!).
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- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You're correct, I do have the Ford knuckles and I have heard they're the weakest. I agree with the idea of aftermarket knuckles being an investment, that's one thing that I'd hate to have break on the trail!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
This steering arm kit from WFO seems to be a good combo with a pair of Dedenbear knuckles. I'd upgrade to ARP studs, for additional strength.
Dana 60 Full Hydro Arms Pair of Arms | WFOConcepts.com
Find Dana 60 Full Hydro Arms Pair of Arms at WFOConcepts.com
www.wfoconcepts.com
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Those look good and take into consideration some of the unique aspects of full hydraulic steering (primarily the arm length so you get full lock-to-lock and the strength of the ram). I've seen full hydro destroy more than a couple knuckles. Fortunately the PR60 in my TJ has the newer 5-bolt steering arms as the older 4-bolt versions had a lot of failures (no issues with mine).
The WFO guys are wheelers and good folks too. We've run Fordyce with them.
The WFO guys are wheelers and good folks too. We've run Fordyce with them.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
I thought Dedenbear turned into Reid Racing?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
You're right... funny how you can still find Dedenbear parts.
Maybe I'm overconfident in those stock knuckles, but I wouldn't replace them if it were me. The ones I've seen broken have all been the top ripping off, I assume from the high steer arm forces. That's one reason why I set my #2 buggy up with the drag link to the high steer arm, and the tie rod on the stock steering arms with a hydro assist ram. Just to distribute the forces where they're designed to be, mostly. I never had an issue with it, but I wouldn't be surprised if the guy after me did. (since he broke the whole housing)
Just be careful when you set up the steering, that the ram travel and steering stops both stop together. Then upgrade if you need to later.
Just be careful when you set up the steering, that the ram travel and steering stops both stop together. Then upgrade if you need to later.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Good point, I'll keep it in mind. I think you're right, the high steer arms and full hydro put most of the force on top of the knuckle, where it's not built to be.
I agree. I researched this when I was doing my D60 front after you mentioned the same thing. Most failures were from high-steer arms on top.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
PM me, Chance!
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
So should I go with my original plan of using a highsteer arm and the stock TRE location, running a long bolt between the two and mounting my full hydro rod end about half way?
Like this?
Like this?
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
I have a pair of rear brake caliper brackets for the D70 from RuffStuff that have been sitting around, with a bit of rust starting to form on them. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and decided to stop the rust issue. I have some high quality Gloss Black powder from The Powder Coat Store and my HF powder coat setup. Heated up the oven, burned off the oils and hit the brackets with powder, then tossed them back in the oven for 15 min @ 375*'s. They came out amazing with a beautiful, deep gloss.
I agree 100%
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Thanks for the input Carl & Ryan! I'm going to pick up the WFO arms Chance offered and see if I can run them with the factory knuckle.
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
One thing to watch when you tie the high steer arms into the stock arm is wheel clearance. Your wheels likely have a shallow enough backspacing to make it work, just one thing to consider.