WJ knuckles on a TJ

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
This will be a brief overview of what I did to my TJ front axle to put WJ knuckles on. Especially brief since I took zero pictures during the process, only after the fact. There are certainly several options of how, this is one of them.

Basically, this swap takes the outer knuckles, brake calipers and brackets from a WJ to upgrade the steering and brakes of a TJ/XJ/ZJ. To do that, you need to space the unit bearing out from the knuckle, since the WJ uses a different setup. The spacer gets welded onto the knuckle, and is sandwiched between it and the unit bearing. The WJ also uses a different lower ball joint, so that needs to be swapped also.

The basic parts needed are the knuckles, brake calipers, and brake brackets from a WJ axle. You also need brake rotors and lower ball joints--I bought new on both of these. You'll use your TJ brake rotor as a pattern to drill new lug holes into the WJ rotors, in between the factory holes. (the WJ is 5x5" lug pattern, the TJ is 5x4.5") Then you'll need the knuckle spacers, trackbar brackets, swaybar brackets, and new trackbar/drag link/tie rod.

This is a picture of the parts I made. The 4 pieces on the left make up the axle-side trackbar bracket, then the swaybar mount and knuckle spacer, then the frame-side trackbar mount is the 4 pieces on the right.



Here is the main thing we're after: The two steering arms on the passenger side knuckle, so you can separate the drag link and tie rod. (and have a real, wheel-to-wheel tie rod) You can also see the axle-side trackbar mount, which needs to be altered when you alter the position of the drag link. Separate issue, I also boxed the front of the factory upper control arm bracket, since those are prone to bending if you leave them open on the front. You can also see the end of the swaybar link bracket.



Backside of the axle-side bracket:



Here is the frame-side bracket. It can't stick out too far outside the frame if you want to use a swaybar like an Antirock, or my Teraflex dual-rate S/T swaybar.



This shows the swaybar bracket fairly well. This is the driver's side, and it doesn't need to be so high here. On the passenger side it does need to be up high to clear the drag link. These weld onto the top of the inner knuckle.



In addition to the steering, you get better brakes with this setup. The rotor is about 1" larger diameter compared to the TJ, and the caliper is huge. There is about 1/8" of clearance to my 15" wheel...but it sure stops better than it did before!



One possible downside to this setup, is that it requires a longer pitman arm to get full steering. This is where I messed up a little bit--I intended to use a totally flat pitman arm, and made the trackbar brackets accordingly--but then found out the nut for the tie rod end would hit my radiator. So, I went with this 1" drop arm from a Wagoneer instead. That makes my drag link and trackbar angles not quite matching anymore, but it's still closer than it ever was before. :) Also, this pitman is slightly longer than the one I used at first, so the trackbar gets friendly with the tie rod end. That could be fixed just by welding the frame-side bracket a little bit farther backward on the frame. I have adjusted the brackets shown in the first picture so the next one will be closer to correct using this same pitman arm.



On the tie rod--from the factory, the tie rod ends go in from the bottom. If you do that same thing, nothing special needs to be done. If you want to move the tie rod to the top of the steering arms as I have, you will need to use offset ends to get the tie rod a bit further forward....and even then, you'll need to trim the front of the coil spring perch to clear. I used tie rod ends from Teraflex, they are also available from Ruffstuff Specialties. (and you can see them in the pic showing the two steering links)

Let me know if you have questions, or need anything clarified.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
WOW! That was super fast. Now I'm going to feel really bad when it takes me months to get to completing this mod. Great write up and pics.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
WOW! That was super fast. Now I'm going to feel really bad when it takes me months to get to completing this mod. Great write up and pics.

No judgement here on slow progress. I have been "working" on my Willys for like 7 years now. :rolleyes:

Let me know if you want to use the same setup I did, and I can cut you the parts. You can do some of the work in advance of actually taking your rig out of service, to make the whole thing go quicker when the time comes. Off the top of my head, you can weld the spacers to the knuckles, decide/source what joints you want to use for the steering and track bar, make the links to fit, etc...
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I realized I never posted a simple straight-on front shot of the steering. So here it is.

 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Yes! Only yours doesn't have the huge/hideous Warn winch mount on it. :)

On the trackbar brackets, they are designed to fit a 2" wide joint. I used heims because they're easy, but you could use anything else you prefer as long as it's 2" wide. The hole size would be the only difference. (and maybe the threads in the tube)

Speaking of which, all my links are made from 1.25" .219 DOM, threaded 7/8-18 on the tie rod ends, and 7/8-14 for the hiems. Then the tie rod is sleeved with 1.5" .120 since it's the most likely to get in the way of rocks and bend.
 

kmboren

Recovering XJ owner anonymous
Location
Southern Utah
Then the tie rod is sleeved with 1.5" .120 since it's the most likely to get in the way of rocks and bend.
New tires Carl?

This is true. I bent the one Carl made me a month or so after I installed it. Just barley got around to fixing it. With the beefy sleave.

Also for XJ owners the XJ wheel bearings have a different off set than TJ ones. You can use washers to space the brake caliper so it is centered or just go buy some TJ wheel bearings. I just barley did this on my rig and now there is no need to run washers between my caliper and the knuckle. I purchased 2004 TJ wheel bearings. This swap also works for The TJ 44 rubicons. That is what I am running in the front of my XJ.
 
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thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I need to talk my father in law into this, although he bought high dollar brakes a year or so ago, but he desperately needs to upgrade his OEM steering and track bar.

It seems like a fairly cheap upgrade, snag knuckles rotors and calipers from a JY

Depending what Carl charges for bracket parts I am guessing that it could be done for cheaper than the $600 tj steering upgrade kits.

Nathan
 

kmboren

Recovering XJ owner anonymous
Location
Southern Utah
If you have the pitman arm reamed from carl you can also have him make the drag link one ton steering. Then either ream the top of the knuckle or drill it out and get an insert. I bought the offset TREs from ruff stuff but like carl said they are also avaiable through teraflex.
 
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gijohn40

too poor to wheel... :(
Location
Layton, Utah
Carl, This story came 2 weeks too late... I bought a system on line.. but I would rather do this in the future! Once I start my new job and have income coming in I will be collecting parts so I can get it all done over a weekend.

You need to figure out a price on the part and sell them as a kit form it looks like 4-5 of us are going to be calling you!
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Glad this thread popped back up. Eric wants to do this to his XJ. Can you still cut the parts Carl?

I can, sure. Other than I don't have any 3/8" steel right now, which is what you'd want for the sway bar mounts. And, the unit bearing spacers were kinda a pain to make, so I'd rather you just buy those from JKS or whoever else.

How much will you want to do this to my TJ?

More and more. :p I don't want to work on other people's vehicles. I will help you with the parts though...
 
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