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XJ Frame busted at the steering gear, need a direction!!!!

Smittyauto

Smittyauto

Member
Location
Orem Utah
I am trying to figure out if there is a kit that I can buy and weld/bolt into place that will fix a cracked and flexing frame at the steering gear. I know I have seen it done, but cant seem to find it in a kit. I am looking for something that will start at the bumper mount and go back far enough to tie into the track bar bracket at the very least, if not to the fire wall.
 
gorillaxj

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
Smittyauto said:
I am trying to figure out if there is a kit that I can buy and weld/bolt into place that will fix a cracked and flexing frame at the steering gear. I know I have seen it done, but cant seem to find it in a kit. I am looking for something that will start at the bumper mount and go back far enough to tie into the track bar bracket at the very least, if not to the fire wall.
Click to expand...

you have a few options... for bolt on they will be limited in options and strength. these should help add some strength and limit the flex in the rail behind the box, the sleeves are a great idea to help limit the rail from collapsing and allowing play ect... here are some ideas and links...
C-rok plate/repair kit http://www.c-rok.com/sb.html
off camber's kit http://www.offcambercc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=971
JCR offroad's kit (still needs inner plate) http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=J&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=XJB&Product_Code=UNF
JCR's inner plate http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=J&Screen=PROD&Category_Code=XJMISC&Product_Code=STSPC

I personally use a plate I had "I Lean" make for me, its awesome and does the trick (but mine never cracked) It goes from the bumper mounts down to where the rail flattens out and butts up against the fire wall sheet metal. I would also run some sleeves threw the rail like stated above, and a inner plate to help transfer the force threw the rail. I am using a JCR inner plate which works well, however IDK if its something that would cover your crack...

here are pics of the plate installed, mine where the first test dummy, I noted all grind points and gave them to "I Lean" to alter so they should be pretty close to just weld on.. I used a weld on track bar bracket and moved the mount forward, but it left the track bar bracket bolts unmoved. My bumper mounts also could not have been moved So I cut and welded the plate to fit around them, will plate over the gap later. you can see the untouched track-bar mounting holes above my weld on bracket... (which I now use to bolt on my Limit straps)
2012-04-17_13-53-28_526.jpg
2012-04-17_13-53-37_456.jpg

Also commented here...
shown here...
 
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XJEEPER

XJEEPER

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland Springs
I used the JKS SBS kit when I built my XJ, which included sleeves for the steering box and plates both the inside and outside of the steering box area as well as the same area on the passenger side.
000_0300.jpg

The SBS plates tie in with the TMR plate in the front wheel well.
000_0302.jpg

TNT Customs uni-rail plating runs from the front wheel well to the front leaf spring hanger.
000_0275.jpg


My XJ build thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=913774&page=2
 
jmaxj

jmaxj

This sucks!!!!
Location
were ever i feel i need to be.....
depends on how bad it is. mine was destroyed, my steering box was just flopping around in the "frame" rails(it was fun doing upper helldorado with it like that) i had to cut everything from the motormounts forward off and build my own frame from there. i did however band-aid my frame 3 other times before that before it destroyed LOL

i recommend if its just cracked and moving right now to drill and weld the cracks to stop it from spreading, then adding plates and support to keep it from moving anymore. there are no "kits" out there but you can get plates cut and piece together everything you'll need to make it better.

black_ZJ said:
And once you get it patched up you should look into a 4 bolt steering box and a steering box brace.
Click to expand...

why? what's so awesome about the 4 bolt box? so it's got one more bolt if your frame breaks that don't matter. i've ran both and my 3 bolt is just as good and after the frame got plated didn't budge at all.
 
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gorillaxj

gorillaxj

Always building hardly wheeling
Location
SLC
If your really that worried about it after teh repair, run hydraulic assist and take most of the stress off the box/frame all together.
 
thenag

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
again mine was beefed up before issues.

http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up/page8

post #109 is carl's plate on the inside, on the outside my bumper mount is integrated. (that would be post #119)

I need/should weld at least the inner plate to the "frame" rail

The outer bumper plate on mine also ties into a bulkhead plate so my steering load is pretty spread out.

I need to ditch my lock-rite up front to, trying to turn 37's in moab with a lock-rite just doesn't work.

nathan
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
thenag said:
yeah that too, but I still need to ditch the lock rite for an e-locker...

nathan
Click to expand...

Can you do 2WD Low-range with your 205? That will let the lock-right release and become invisible until you actually need to engage the front drive. (or you can just put it in 2WD hi, and use the low range of your other Tcase I suppose)
 
thenag

thenag

Registered User
Location
Kearns
I Lean said:
Can you do 2WD Low-range with your 205? That will let the lock-right release and become invisible until you actually need to engage the front drive. (or you can just put it in 2WD hi, and use the low range of your other Tcase I suppose)
Click to expand...

Actually in the xj I have a np231/d300. in the bronco I had a 203/205. Yes that is actually why the lock-rite is still there after so long (neither broken nor thrown away). I do rear wheel low almost all the time, I only engage the front for obstacles. However both the 205 and the 300 do not like to disengage the front end while bound up. The d300 is a little easier to disengage than the np205 was, but that may be a shift linkage thing. You would think you could just push the clutch in and it would pop right out but that isn't the case. It gets to be frustrating climbing up something like the "water fall" on gold bar rim and then have to bounce the clutch to get into 2wd to make the turn. Hydro steering would only help so much because usually I can get the wheels turned but the vehicle still wants to go straight with the locker. I usually ask my spotter to unlock my hubs...

ummm

sorry for the huge thread jack....

nathan
 
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