Unimog
Eric
- Location
- Stansbury Park, UT
Just noticed you are talking about glass fuses. I'm not sure there are charts for those, but the same principle would apply.
Grandmas Skylark project
- Thread starter mbryson
- Start date
Here's an example of the voltage drop charts @Unimog is referencing. It shouldn't matter if it is newer ATC or older glass type fuses.
Unimog
Eric
- Location
- Stansbury Park, UT
perfect! I was thinking there were different charts for different fuse styles, but if you are just looking for draws, small differences wouldn't matter.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
1102480 alternator --- application is a '77 c10 pickup with 350
Just here for my reference. I needed a new alternator and have spent a considerable amount of time trying to get the correct alternator.
Just here for my reference. I needed a new alternator and have spent a considerable amount of time trying to get the correct alternator.
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- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
So, I bumped the heater connection when working on my alternator.
Didn't take much at all to flex that connection off the radiator. Brass tank and brass fitting. Is this repair the same kind of process and solder/flux as copper plumbing?
RockChucker
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland
Is there enough meat in the tank to use an appropriate size npt tap and thread in a barb?
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Take this with a few grains of salt, but my experience with brazing brass fittings back into brass end tanks hasn't been great, and they have all been on military stuff.
Make sure the radiator is totally drained of coolant and you clean the crap out of the hose adapter and end tank. Use a good plumbing solder with flux. If there is any fluid in the radiator it will take way to much heat to get things to adhere properly.
If all else fails, Western Radiator on Pennsylvania Ave in Ogden has donee some great work in the past for me, with pretty reasonable pricing.
Might be easier/cheaper to buy a new radiator or convert to an aluminum. Personally though I try to save and use the older brass ones wherever I can.
Make sure the radiator is totally drained of coolant and you clean the crap out of the hose adapter and end tank. Use a good plumbing solder with flux. If there is any fluid in the radiator it will take way to much heat to get things to adhere properly.
If all else fails, Western Radiator on Pennsylvania Ave in Ogden has donee some great work in the past for me, with pretty reasonable pricing.
Might be easier/cheaper to buy a new radiator or convert to an aluminum. Personally though I try to save and use the older brass ones wherever I can.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
x2 on Western Radiator - have done some good work for me
James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
Buick Skylark 4-Row Champion Radiator (67-72)
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
So, I gave this a shot with flux, silver solder a propane torch and some vice grips to hold the fitting.
Aside from the booger, I don't see any lines for 360* around the fitting. We'll see if it leaks.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
MAPP gas works a lot better than propane for sweating fittings, at least in my experience.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
I'd vote same. Propane was perfect for brass sheet metal though
SLC97SR5
IDIesel
- Location
- Davis County
Looks good! If that fails, is there room to fish in a bulkhead fitting?
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Definite possible working through the radiator cap hole for the interior side. With my skill/luck/process, I'm sure I'll drop that interior piece into the bottom of my radiator tank
I wonder if I ran a piece of strong wire (coat hanger type) through the hole from the radiator cap access to have a mechanical "hold" to prevent dropping the interior fitting that the wire would prevent the dropping problem while allowing the "sandwich" affect of the exterior fitting to work. We'll cross that bridge if we get there. The wire would capture the fitting and prevent gravity from being my enemy.
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