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The tuner is very simple and the default setting works great or you can play around with several built-in tunes. It just plugs into some factory connectors if I remember right. Most stick it to the head tube in front of the tank, but you could put it in the airbox if you wanted.

You won’t be disappointed. Did the JD tuner, removed the factory intake “obstruction” 🙄 and added an FMF slip on to my nephews FE250. Huge improvement. You’ll wish you had done it sooner. 🤘

Well, all that single-wall stove pipe was great while it lasted. It’s all super pricey triple-wall from here. 💰

Thx, it has more character if seen in person. However, there was a bunch of bird poop on the material that needed to be removed. That gave it a little too much character. 😉

Any sort of heat wall/barrier has to be a non-combustible material (with a min. thickness) and so do the stand-offs attached to the wood. There are exceptions, like if using brick or whatnot.

A few of my chimney pipes were delayed, so I wrapped this up instead. When I insulate the rest of the shop, I’ll take some of this down, add insulation, then run another 8’ of corrugated to the ceiling.

FWIW, I’m a member of the 7/8” tap club as well. 🤷‍♂️

Ha! If I can find my 3/4” vintage Kmart Tools end-wrench, it may be replaced. 😂

Got this sucker painted and anchored. Stove/chimney pipe work starts tomorrow.

There’s a high probability of such things. 👍

Still picking away at the shop stove project. Repurposed some of the decorative cast surround I removed from the house. No choice but to bring two halves together and will use those through-bolts for some kind of handle so it all appears somewhat intentional. Still gotta grind the upper edge...

Isn’t the white wire the one you’re always supposed to cut? 😉🤷‍♂️

Threw some legs on my shop stove project. The firebox needs to be a minimum of 18” off the concrete. I made the legs 15” and the compartment between the legs and firebox is 5.5”, so I exceeded to spec a little. It seems to be a good height to load wood and also heat something on top if I ever...

All great info! Part of the reason I removed this one from the house is because we had a chimney/stove guy out to clean and inspect. We knew the previous owner did everything half-ass and figured he also installed the stove. Sure enough, it was about as unsafe an install as you could get...

From a convenience standpoint, I hear ya. However, we heat the house on propane and the current prices have me extra motivated to burn some wood. 😂

Replacing this built-in with a new “free standing” wood stove in the house (which I haven’t gotten yet). Gonna focus on getting this one ready to setup in the shop. Any suggestions for parts (sources?) welcome. I’m aware of dimensional requirements and basic design safety, but very much a...

Yes sir. When there’s slack, there are return springs that keep it on the pulleys.

You probably already had a pretty good understanding and/or theories on the subject, as they share a lot in common (benefit wise) with automotive portal boxes/axles. My answer was mostly for others following the thread. 😉

At face value, portals seem like the upgrade to solve all problems running bigger tires. Of course, the most obvious benefits are clearance for larger tires, gear reduction, and an increase in track width (to offset some of the height). There’s also the stress the portal boxes now are...

Lots of options, but the Tusk and BFG are popular choices. The common complaint with the Tusk 32s is that they run small in that size. Due to the backlash, all sizes since releasing the 32s are much more true to size (and they’ll never go back and update current molds/tooling and release a...