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https://www.amazon.com/Weller-D650-Industrial-Soldering-Gun/dp/B000JEGEC0?tag=googhydr-20&source=dsa&hvcampaign=catchall&gbraid=0AAAAA-bxZ9bL5RWeHuEoyPaz0EyjWuHyG&gclid=CjwKCAiA9bq6BhAKEiwAH6bqoAJWEhvi4wO-w5fdihYKqiR1AzZtorF-RQtS-YAAzFYtNM_2z7YegBoCZAUQAvD_BwE This gun rocks

A simple Google search will make up you mind quick. Duetsch is better in every way except for cost. Easier to work with, more positive crimps, more configurations, more waterproof.

I have never had a problem with a solder splice and heat shrink but I guess I can see that causing an issue with fatigue down the road. I have set up for and use a lot Duetch plug type connectors everywhere a plug and socket belongs. I think it's a much better and watertight connection than...

Speedglass is the best optics in an auto dark hood I have used. The best period is a manual hood with glass lens.

The last few years my eyes have needed help. I have one hood with a cheater installed but I have found I can see better with a good pair of readers under a hood without. I can still stick weld fine without correction but Mig has become problematic. Probably because for me stick weld takes...

I have it now but it took six months. Every time I called there was some issue with the gears.

Picked it up yesterday

Agree but I don't think access to good craft beer is better there. At least I have had a hard time finding it.

It may be but the 350s had different output shafts to work with the 208 adapters. There used to be stub shafts that could make up the difference but only available used now. Thing is a AA adapter is only 200 or so bucks and makes for a shorter driveline. It's worth it. what is the debate here.

Adapter is needed. 350 case is 4 bolts and adapted always. Most would have been adapted to 203s which were not round. Factory 208 adapter and spud shaft unless you find a rare trans that was originally in front of the 208 might work if you could find one. but the AA adapter is only about $200...

I have used and been happy with both companies products. I’m a little bit down on AA lately after waiting 6 months for an Atlas

Advanced adapters are quite a bit cheaper than that. Are those Novak prices? Some of your other items on the list seem too cheap.

The jeep I’m running now has a 4L80 and a 4 speed Atlas. 5.38s and 43”s. The Atlas has 3.8 reduction and when you shift the reduction box in it becomes 10.3 to 1 and it is unusable. The jeep in low range 3.8 with the 2.5 or so trans ratio seems to work fine for everything

Complete Hokus Pokus to me. I just ordered one. Manual valve body and specified I wanted engine braking. Hope that's what happens. Not sure I will know the difference. I always had a granny low 4 speed

I don't know. A long time ago I read it's really not a strong enough way to engine brake. Only engaged in overdrive anyway unless you modify and won't hold up. Things may have changed and I never dove deep into the tech.

Why a lockup converter

What is the budget? My first choice would be an AMC TH-400. Reverse manual valve body. You say no OD needed and I see no downside to as much strength reliability and simplicity as you can have. 5.0 to 1 Transfer case makes the ratio all you will ever want. Is driveline length an issue?

Why the need to stretch a TJ. Do you need the room? Seems like wanting to not make it too capable would mean stock wheelbase is OK?

If you feel that much suction it has to be affecting the tune

I have read a lot today as well. I think the valve cover baffle thing matters. I read that GM may have actually changed the valve cover design adding a baffle without acknowledging an issue. I also think I would look into the suction from the oil fil port. I am not getting that and I wonder if...