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01 powerstroke cranks but won't start.

Jesser04

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
A few days ago our neighbor tried to start it and it wouldn't. About 20 minutes later he tried again and it started. Now it won't start again. He is changing the fuel filter. It continually cranks but won't start. Any ideas to what could be wrong? Thanks.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
If mine does that, I change the CPS. It's worked at least 3-4 times. I've got a spare if you need it. I'd just need it replaced.

10 mm socket and an electrical connection.
 
Jesser04

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
mbryson said:
If mine does that, I change the CPS. It's worked at least 3-4 times. I've got a spare if you need it. I'd just need it replaced.

10 mm socket and an electrical connection.
Click to expand...

Where on the engine is it located? Is this a part I can pickup from a part store or do we have to go to a dealer?
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
Jesser04 said:
Where on the engine is it located? Is this a part I can pickup from a part store or do we have to go to a dealer?
Click to expand...

Just above the crank pulley. Due to my "success" with parts store sensors on my Jeep, I've sworn off parts store sensors. (same could be said about F*rd parts, though) I spent a LOT of money diagnosing a bad "new" sensor (actually two) on my 4.0L XJ.

sizeimage.php

stolen from this thread
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/506325-cps-location.html

I think the F*rd part is down to $20 or so, though. They used to be $200ish and $160 or so from International.
 
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dieslcruisrhead

Registered User
Location
Park City & Heber City Utah
CPS sounds like a good one. A good way to check is if you tach is working when it cranks. If it shows RPMs the CPS is good, if it doesn't then its failed. Ford sells the replacement part at about $25 but its only so-so. It can cause some mystery errors and sometimes shows your number 8 cylinder running off on a cylinder contribution test. If you can source the part from IH you're in better shape.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
dieslcruisrhead said:
CPS sounds like a good one. A good way to check is if you tach is working when it cranks. If it shows RPMs the CPS is good, if it doesn't then its failed. Ford sells the replacement part at about $25 but its only so-so. It can cause some mystery errors and sometimes shows your number 8 cylinder running off on a cylinder contribution test. If you can source the part from IH you're in better shape.
Click to expand...



I was just perusing around thedieselstop and low and behold, there's a thread with your name on it. :D Have you found the magic CPS yet?
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
mbryson said:
If mine does that, I change the CPS. It's worked at least 3-4 times. I've got a spare if you need it. I'd just need it replaced.

10 mm socket and an electrical connection.
Click to expand...



I think your neighbor's bad karma rubbed off on my truck. I just had to change mine out again last night.
 
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dieslcruisrhead

Registered User
Location
Park City & Heber City Utah
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dieslcruisrhead

Registered User
Location
Park City & Heber City Utah
Here is another good one but this one is about the same as just going down to International for the part:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD...s?hash=item56332a33a0&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116
This is an OEM International "blue" CPS # 1807339C92 .
This is originally for the DT466 engine but is a common replacement upgrade for the Powerstroke 7.3L . A lot of comments in the Ford chat rooms on how this sensor smoothes out the engine and quites it down.
Used to replace the 1821720C99 and the 1825899C93
Works on all Powerstrokes, 99-03 direct install, 94.5 to 98 may require shimming.
Click to expand...
 
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dieslcruisrhead

Registered User
Location
Park City & Heber City Utah
It's seldom the glow plugs themselves (does happen) but usually the glow plug relays (also much quicker to swap out). I doubt its that as when this started it wasn't that cold. After enough cranking it should fire unless it starts getting pretty damn cold like it is now.

Also starting fluid is a total mistake and can blow head gaskets, etc... Use STATIC GUARD which you buy in the grocery store (designed to eliminate static cling), or even gun cleaning chemical. No residue, much milder, works almost even better than starting fluid.
 
bull7467

bull7467

The Yellow Jeep Squad
Location
American Fork
If you hear your system bog down a few seconds after you turn the key on then your glow plug relay is working. If you can't tell if it bogs down put a volt meter on the battery when you turn the key on it should go from 12.6 to 11.5ish I can't remember the exact number.) If it doesn't; jump the Silinoid It is on the top of the engine if you pull the plastic off. Left of center about 1/3 back on the engine.

If you believe it is the glow plugs plug the engine in at least 2 hours before you try to start it and leave your key on for 50% more of the time the 'Wait To Start' light is on. Your glow plugs are on for the first minute of operation whether the motor is running or not. Give them a chance to warm the motor up a little more.

If there is white smoke After you get it started the glow plugs are weak and probable need to be replaced. Just some knowledge I have picked up:)
 
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