1976 Bronco - Frome Off Project

[yellowbronco]

For a selectable, I think I'd stick to those two. I had an ARB in both axles in my XJ and would definitely buy them again. I was prepared for all the 'failures', but didn't really have any (that weren't related to my D30 looking like a banana, but I don't think that's any failure of the ARB) other than I blew a fuse to my compressor that I'd installed about 18 months before and couldn't remember where I'd put it. I got to wheel open diffed for a day and a half until I figured out where my fuse was (which was actually kinda fun, but I'm glad I did a milder trail (Metal Masher)).

****{I did not use the ARB harness where it requires you to lock the rear and then the front. I made it independant where I could lock either whenever.}****

I've heard similar to rckcrlr about the Eaton E-locker (probably from the same sources ) but think they'd be pretty sweet on a trail rig. You don't need a compressor and you've already got a battery. From what I understand (and have quickly looked at in the diagrams available on the interweb), they are basicly an ARB type design, activated by a magnet.

The only other two selectables I know of are Ox and TracTech's Electrac. Both are activated by a lever sticking out of the diff cover that I don't care for and I've seen issues with the Ox's on the trail a couple of times on two different rigs. I have no experience with the Electrac, but they definitely promote that it's a limited slip when not locked. Not important to me, but I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

I've been running an Electrac for over a year in my front axle, no problems at all. There is a solenoid that is mounted on the cover which depending on the application can be mounted in either the up or down position. Mine is up-mounted and completely protected from the evil rocks. I love it!!

 

[mswasey]

At risk of starting yet another huge debate, I will throw my $.02 in and say I have loved my Detroit in the front for many, many years. With a twin stick it is quite managable.
Good luck on your project, Bronco's are cool!

 

[broncodan]

I have FINALLY finished fixing all the body mounts and grinding, welding, etc... The frame is freshly sandblasted. Do you guys think I need to put down POR or something before I paint it, being there is no rust there now I do not know if that is necessary?!

 

[V-DAWG]

I have FINALLY finished fixing all the body mounts and grinding, welding, etc... The frame is freshly sandblasted. Do you guys think I need to put down POR or something before I paint it, being there is no rust there now I do not know if that is necessary?!

It is already apart and fully accessible...........I wouldn't skimp now, you may regret it later.

 

[broncodan]

I do not want to skimp. I just did not know if POR is meant to stop rust or prevent it. I am not afraid of doing it, I just was wondering if it is a complete waste of time. If it will have any sort of function or advantage, consider it done. Just wanted to know if you used it on bare metal before paint, thats all :greg: !

 

[James K]

I do not want to skimp. I just did not know if POR is meant to stop rust or prevent it. I am not afraid of doing it, I just was wondering if it is a complete waste of time. If it will have any sort of function or advantage, consider it done. Just wanted to know if you used it on bare metal before paint, thats all :greg: !

I did it on the bottom of my tub with POR 15 when it was fresh back from the sandblaster.

But the frame I used rustoleum brown primer the painted it rustoleum gloss black. Reason being the frame gets changed, ie; rock sliders, crossmembers, shock mounts, and...................

 

[Jate]

I have FINALLY finished fixing all the body mounts and grinding, welding, etc... The frame is freshly sandblasted. Do you guys think I need to put down POR or something before I paint it, being there is no rust there now I do not know if that is necessary?!

I would definitely either Por-15 it or sandblast it. Also, some of the things we did to my frame are weld reinforcements on the body mounts and the locations on the frame where the bumpers attach.

 

[broncodan]

It has already been sandblasted. That is why I am wondering whether or not to do POR!?

 

[Jay5.9L]

If you got the money and want to go the extra 1/4 mile go for the por 15. But since your sandblasted and all the rust is removed already I think you will be ok with a good rust primer/inhibiting paint. Remember POR stand for "Paint Over Rust". No rust means not as necessary to paint over it to neutralize.

 

[broncodan]

I figured that was what POR meant, but did not know. I think I am just going to use Rustoleum primer and semigloss black chassis paint. I have heard good things about that stuff, and since there is no rust I think POR is a waste of time. Thanks for the input guys. I will try and post some pics of the fixed frame soon, just been busy.

 

[Milner]

At risk of starting yet another huge debate, I will throw my $.02 in and say I have loved my Detroit in the front for many, many years. With a twin stick it is quite managable.
Good luck on your project, Bronco's are cool!

I agree!! I have love mine

 

[Projp]

Broncodan

My first thought: Save your time, money, and marriage by stopping this madness.
My second thought: I'm sure it will be real inexpensive and take no time at all.

I started out one Saturday changing the worn out carpet in my 74 and ended the day staring at the bare frame. Seven years later I'm sure I'm almost done.
If you must continue I would be glad to show the multitude of "learning experiences" I have had.
I'm just over the Point.
PS: The ARB & Detroit work for me.

 

[Destroyer]

Good to see I'm not the only crazy one, I'm curently doing a frame off one a 67 Bronco, Yours sounds like its going to be alot nicer then mine.
Now If I have any Qs on how something go's back together I know who to ask. J/K
Are you going to use the same trans and Tcase?

 

[broncodan]

I have just stock t-case (Dana 300) and I have a C4 (which is stock) and an AOD out of a mustang. I would like to run the AOD just for the sake of having overdrive, but it requires a $500 adapter and is about 12" longer. It would make the drivetrain 14" - 15" longer which puts a pretty extreme angle on my rear driveshaft. I think I am just gonna run the C4.

 

[broncodan]

My first thought: Save your time, money, and marriage by stopping this madness.
My second thought: I'm sure it will be real inexpensive and take no time at all.

I started out one Saturday changing the worn out carpet in my 74 and ended the day staring at the bare frame. Seven years later I'm sure I'm almost done.
If you must continue I would be glad to show the multitude of "learning experiences" I have had.
I'm just over the Point.
PS: The ARB & Detroit work for me.

That is hilarious. About 6 years ago I decided to take the carpet out of the 74 I had at the time, and that itself lead to a 14 week project. I did everything on that old truck except what I am doing right now, painting and sandblasting the frame. I really miss that old truck, and that is why I bought this one. I sold that one 4 years ago, and I really miss it. I don't care how long it takes, or how much it costs because it is just something fun for me to do. If something is expensive, just save up until I have the cash and buy it. I am in no hurry. I am sure it will take quite a while. I am planning on about 1 year, which is pretty fast if you think about it. I need to post some more pics. Thanks for all the great feedback guys.

 

[Destroyer]

Keep the pictures coming, I have taken a lot of mine but its going so slow I think I'm going to wait tell I'm a little more closer to being done tell I post them, For now I'll just watch your build up.
Keep up the good work.
Phil

 

[Jay5.9L]

I have just stock t-case (Dana 300) and I have a C4 (which is stock) and an AOD out of a mustang. I would like to run the AOD just for the sake of having overdrive, but it requires a $500 adapter and is about 12" longer. It would make the drivetrain 14" - 15" longer which puts a pretty extreme angle on my rear driveshaft. I think I am just gonna run the C4.

I thought the stock T-case for a EB was a Dana 20?

 

[OCNORB]

I thought the stock T-case for a EB was a Dana 20?

It is.

 

[broncodan]

I thought the stock T-case for a EB was a Dana 20?

It is, my mistake.

 

[broncodan]

I am going to tear into the axles tomorrow. The frame is ready to go. jlowry just saved me some money and hooked me up with some parts. He got me a nascar locker for the 9 inch, 31 spline yukon axles, 4.88 r&p with master install kits for both the front and rear. All the stuff is brand new, and he hooked it up for $775 :greg: ! Seems like a good deal...He has a bunch of stuff also if anyone else needs anything. I will make sure and take some pics as I get the axles built. I am going to paint the frame next week, and hopefully get this all tied back together before the end of the month. Who knows what will happen though. Thanks for all the good feedback guys, keep it coming!