Jeep 2002 WJ build

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
Bought a 02 WJ from auction for my wife. Putting new suspension, new brakes, ball joints as that is what I could tell was wrong with it from the parking lot test drive.
Seems previous owner attempted to start the balljoints, as the driver side wheelhub bolts were very rounded out. Was able to pound a 12p 1/2 on each one to get them out, but not finding any replacements. hub is not bad, but willing to change it just to have it done, but not seeing that any kits come with the bolts (just may not be listed).

Anyone run into this, would a grad8 bolt of same size/thread suffice? Just don't want to assume and be wrong.
 
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Anchor_Mtn

Work Less, Travel More
Vendor
Location
Fruita, CO
I have never managed to find the hub bolts at Napa or any other autoparts store.... just Mopar parts the Mopar dealers(like Quadratec)
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I just grabbed a bunch one day at the junkyard. I used to break 30 joints so much that I worried about those bolts wearing out.
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
I have never managed to find the hub bolts at Napa or any other autoparts store.... just Mopar parts the Mopar dealers(like Quadratec)
Yeah, I even called napa just to make sure they were not in stock and just not on the site, not something they have.

I just grabbed a bunch one day at the junkyard. I used to break 30 joints so much that I worried about those bolts wearing out.
Good idea for backups, need to keep my eyes open next time I go for any that are easy access.
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
Good idea for backups, need to keep my eyes open next time I go for any that are easy access.

Yeah they're usually easy to grab. I also got some caliper bolts when I realized that on newer XJ's they use a 13mm head, not stupid 10mm like mine came with. Using one socket for the caliper bolts and unitbearing bolts just makes the job easier.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
WJ unit bearing bolts are a different length that TJ/XJ/YJ, so keep that in mind when you're grabbing spares. (IIRC they're shorter, so you might be able to use the longer ones in either case? Check to be sure though)
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
Didn't feel the need for a whole new thread.
Hope all had a good F-day. I did, got out and worked on the jeep a bit, best part was my 10yo son was out with me!
Bad part was finding this.
120445
Opinions on full new perch, or find some pipe and repair?


Edit:
Found these, will probably just order them.
 
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N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
You could also finish it off (break the top off) and put a couple hockey pucks in there. Lots of options.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Didn't feel the need for a whole new thread.
Hope all had a good F-day. I did, got out and worked on the jeep a bit, best part was my 10yo son was out with me!
Bad part was finding this.
View attachment 120445
Opinions on full new perch, or find some pipe and repair?


Edit:
Found these, will probably just order them.
Holy cow! I'd be pulling things apart to find the rest of the rust! If the spring perch is that bad, there is sure to be more...
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
You could also finish it off (break the top off) and put a couple hockey pucks in there. Lots of options.
The amount my wife drives I would not feel great about that, kit is cheap enough, and will make me feel better about it all. Teton pass in the winter gets pretty gnarly.

Holy cow! I'd be pulling things apart to find the rest of the rust! If the spring perch is that bad, there is sure to be more...
Yeah, I took my chisel and hammer and smacked around on the rest of the parts, all sounded and felt solid.

Will replace the other side just because it comes in the kit. Aside from the muffler and passenger rocker having some nasty rust, the rest was what I expected for this. We will see what the rear holds in store though.
Interior, and motor are in great condition motor only has 87K, and clean. When I looked at it at the estate auction my guess was it was an older persons vehicle that ended up sitting in the deep snow. It has a 6disc cd changer, so it is all worth it, right??:)
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
Am I wrong thiking this is wrong? I set it to the measurements that were with the new upper/lower arms, but this does not look to give the right pinion angle to me. I feel like my lower arms need to come out at least another 1" and drop that pinion down.

20200428_132828.jpg

20200428_132836.jpg
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
I got the alignment pretty close for a garage string and jackstand alignment, I also made sure everything was squared up. After changing the pinion angle it shifted and drove way better. I then scheduled an alignment with a shop here in Spanish, after I ended up paying $145 dollars more than the initial quote I was a little surprised to see it not in perfect alignment. I was told that due to the lift, it was the best they could get it.


After getting moved into the new place, I finally had a minute to go out and re-torque everything (put about 80miles on it). I found that the initial torque marks I made with a sharpie are all still in the same spot. I purposely left the control arm jam nuts finger tight and one wrench tight marked as well, all were the same as I left them.
I called down to find out what exactly was done with the "extra time" that cost me $110 the one thing I know they did was straighten the steering wheel out, and said that is what took them the extra time. I thought it would have been spent adjusting the rear, as I asked them specifically to check the rear pinion angle.

What I want to know is how you adjust the alignment without adjusting the control arms.
I fell like they put it up and said it is close enough and did not do anything with the alignment other than straighten out the steering wheel. I could have done that with and extra set of hands and 30 minutes that I did not have the day I was working on it.
 
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RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
Yeah they're usually easy to grab. I also got some caliper bolts when I realized that on newer XJ's they use a 13mm head, not stupid 10mm like mine came with. Using one socket for the caliper bolts and unitbearing bolts just makes the job easier.
I know this post is really old @xj_nate , but I couldn't help it...swapping to the 13mm head caliper bolts was smart because it matches the hub bolts and because 10mm sockets are mythical creatures that don't usually exist....
 

N-Smooth

Smooth Gang Founding Member
Location
UT
I know this post is really old @xj_nate , but I couldn't help it...swapping to the 13mm head caliper bolts was smart because it matches the hub bolts and because 10mm sockets are mythical creatures that don't usually exist....

hahaha anything that makes it easier to work on since that's pretty much the dana30 life... working on it.
 

shortstraw8

Well-Known Member
Should probably update this. After complaining about the alignment they had me take it back down and apparently let the guy who knew what he was doing work on it. Made sure to remove the dual stabilizer as that apparently cost over $100 in labor. They did get it pretty dead on and said it needed an offset ball joint to fix the one side they could not get perfect.

Thinking about doing full heim joint steering/trackbar on this as I still have death wobble with the stabilizers off. Though this likely due to the fact that rough country sent the wrong track bar with my lift kit. If I order just the track bar I think it will fix the issue but after reading on these and the DW I think I want to eliminate rubber bushings on the track bar. Trailforged has a decent kit that would replace everything with heims and give better TB angle.
The plan is for this to be a DD/hunting/exploring rig, how do the heims perform for DD potentially see 80miles of i15 a day if I have to go back into the office.
 
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