22re Problems

86RICK

Registered User
Location
WEST VALLEY UTAH
I Have A 1986 22re Toyota Truck That Was Running Good Till I Put It Up For Sale A Barely Rebuilt Motor And I Have Spark Good Distributor Gas Into The Fuel Rail Brand New Injectors Just Exchanged For New One 3 Good Pcm And I Am Getting No Gas To The Motor Just Spark. It Will Sit And Crank All Day Has 800 Cranking Amps Still Any One Have An Idea What Could Be Wrong Menlove Toyota Could Not Firgure It Out And I Have Been Trying For Two Days Now And Am On The Last Brain Cell
 

KToy

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman, UT
how far is the fuel getting ??? maybe you have the wrong injectors.. but that is just a insight i doubt that is the problem


clogged fuel filter would be my guess or a bad fuel pump.
 

86RICK

Registered User
Location
WEST VALLEY UTAH
Are You Refering To The Air Fuel Management And If So Where Might That Be I Have Checked The Mass Air Flow Sensor And Filter That Stuff But Dont Know Much About An Afm
 

bigchev79

Registered User
do u have injestor puls also check your grounds body to frame,motor and especly ones coming from harnes i know body frame sould weird for all the people who going to hit me on this but thay can play with you ive been there
 

MattL

Well-Known Member
Location
Erda
Yes i was talking about that. I had a problem with a 2wd version a while back. I put a screwdriver in to open the door and my truck started. Dont know if this will help but might..
 

86RICK

Registered User
Location
WEST VALLEY UTAH
Ok Tried That Stuff

Here Is What Happened Over The Weekend I Checked The Grounds I Know Of Engine To Firewall Battery To Motor Injector To Manifold Andthe Were Clean So I Bought New Battery Cables And A 1000 Cold Cranking Amp Battery I Also Stole A Wiring Harness Off Of A Junker In Our Junk Yard To See What That Would Do The Opened The Mass Air Flow I Will Go Tonight Put The Wiring Harness On And The Battery And Cables See If It All Goes Together
 

bigchev79

Registered User
lot of work changing the harnis if it ran befor u pulled the motor i dout the hrnis is the copret put a test light on a wire going to the ingector and see if it flashes when cranking if it dont theres still a list of things it could be crank senser,cam senser if it got 1 comper also check ingtion magdual (sorry cant spell) make shure theres no stray wires behing the motor that need to be grounded thats what your problem sound like and they like to hide them ive spent days chasing them
 

wr250

insert lame comment
Location
hurricane
do the following (noting that the AFM,and intake pipe are correcty hooked up, not damaged, and the rubber boots on the pipe are not torn):
get some starting fluid, spray it into the air filter area.
1. does it run ?
2. no start/severe backfiring: check cam and distributor to cam timing in that order. rotor should point to #1 cyl (@ tdc on the compression stroke). this may be your problem. if its on the exhaust stroke it wont even fire (180 deg out). check all fuses/fusable links/grounds :
injection system -near the intake holding rod
computer under passenger kick panel
ground strap on back of the motor
battery to chassis ground next to battery

runs, then stalls when out of starting fluid:
recheck distributor timing with a light, and the terminals shorted
FuelPump1.jpg

the smaller one is the one to short. timing should be 5deg shorted ~12 unshorted.

check fuel pressure by cracking open the cold start injector ,fuel should spray out (do it outside,put a rag under it ,safety glasses and the obvious no smoking). if not ,short the fuel pump check connector as in the following:
FuelPump2.jpg


the fuel pump should come on and you may be able to hear it. note : i use a jumper that is insulated up to the point where it actually plugs on, to reduce the chance of a unwanted short to ground.

i will bet you will find the problem above.
 

86RICK

Registered User
Location
WEST VALLEY UTAH
Great Points Guys

So Here Is The Thing The New Wiring Harness Is On Brand Ne Battery And Battery Cables The Negative Goes Down On The Block I Have Grond From Back Of Head To The Fire Wall Groung From Injector Harness To Manifold I Have Gone Through The The Timing System Three Times With My Mechanic Buddies Wqho Swears Its Wrong But They Cant Change It Any We Have Put On The Light For That It Was Good. I Do Have A Severve Back Fire And A Pop In The Afm So We Changed It Out And The Only Other Sensors I Can Find Is The Blue One On Top Of The Motor Cold Start And The One Next To It. When I Got The New Block I Was Missing One In The Side Of The Motor. They Told Me It Was Nothing So Tonight I Will Find On Of Them. I Am Pretty Much At The End Of The Line Looking For This Thing. So I Bought A 302 Last Night That Has 300 Plus Horse To The Wheels. But I Have A Second Toyota For That Motor I Just Want My Daily Driver Back Up And Running. Alot Of This Is Getting Very Pain Ful To Think About Cause It All Happened So Quick I Had All My Tools Jacked Two Days After The Motor Went Down I An Thinking Of Parting This One Completely Out And Starting Over Seems Smart To Me. But Please Keep The Info Coming If It Does Not Run By Saturday It Is Time To Get The New On Started I I Will Be Putting All My Time In It I Sold All Of The Crap Out Of The 92 Last Night So I Can Start Sold My Seats Carpet Dash And Consoles To A Shop. By The Way If Any One Needs Parts For Fair Prices I Can Help You Get Most Of What You Need At The Junk Yard I Have 3 Or 4 Ifs Steering Boxes Motors Tranies Cab Glass Tons Of Interior No More Solid Axle From Toyota But Tons Of 44 60 14 Bolt We Seem To Haev A Lot Omore Truck Right Now Than Ever Before. Thanks For All The Info If You Have Any More Please Et Me Know
 

Klif01

Do I bother you?
Location
Denver, CO
ARG.............run..............on...........................sentence...............err....................novel....I will take the motor off your hands ;)
 

toyotajunk2

Registered User
I went through the same problem with mine

I don't know if you have tried this but your TPS might be bad(Throttle position sensor) its on the right hand side of your EFI. You can actually adjust them, it may be bad or need to be adjusted. It fixed my fuel problem. another thing I checked that went bad was the main switch relay next to the ECU on the passenger side. When you hit the key you should hear it click open and shut. Also check your wiring on your injectors. When we pulled the motor and EFI we pulled one wire out we did not know about and it wasn't getting anything out. Hope these help. They did for me!
 

Klif01

Do I bother you?
Location
Denver, CO
I would bet it is going to be somthing simple like somthing being un-plugged. If it ran before the motor was pulled and now it doesn't. Highly unlikely that a sensor is now bad just because the motor was pulled.

So you have fuel pressure all the way to the fuel rail? Then somthing computer wise is not telling the injectors to fire.


I will come down and help you fix it...for say...hmm. If you want to give me your throttle body including the TPS ;) Mine is worn out and causes wierd throttle issues.


But if you happened to be up in ogden I would be willing to help you out.
 

86RICK

Registered User
Location
WEST VALLEY UTAH
Well I Will Tell You What You Get It Running And I Will Give You A Throttle Body And Linkage Out Of The Junk Yard Its My Best Friends So I Know What Stuff Is Good Out There And What Is Bad
 
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