TJDukit
I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
- Location
- Clearfield
What you don't read every post on every thread on RME
He did mention earlier in the post where he pretty much decided to do the minisquirt that he will lose OBDII.
22RE to 3RZ swap
- Thread starter Kevin B.
- Start date
What you don't read every post on every thread on RME
He did mention earlier in the post where he pretty much decided to do the minisquirt that he will lose OBDII.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Not as such. I won't have a "check engine" light, but I should be able to talk to the computer any time I want from a laptop (or maybe even my phone, still looking into that) and get realtime readouts from the few sensors that are left. Or I can spring for a thingy they call Megaview, which appears to be about the same as a Scangauge, except it works with the MS computer.
I don't think I'm going to miss the OBD. The motor is stripped of a bunch of the stuff that normally goes bad and triggers codes anyway, and most everything else I really want to see (like oil pressure, engine temp, etc) can be routed to my dash gauges just like normal. The only thing the MS won't be monitoring that I wish it did is the knock sensor. So far I don't see any support at all for retarding timing due to knock, so I'll have to pay close attention to that. Luckily I'll have 100% control over the fuel and timing maps.
- Location
- Stinkwater
MOAR BOOTY FAB
Still figuring out the wiring, and getting closer, but I had a minute to finish a couple little things. I don't have the stock air box, and the Megasquirt doesn't read a MAF, so I chopped up the intake and threw on a crap Spectra filter for now. I needed a place for the air temp sensor, which the Megasquirt DOES read, so I drilled a hole in the tube and grommeted it for the sensor to plug into. Worked out pretty slick I think.
That's not going to stay that way. The filter hangs right over the exhaust manifold, so at the least I'll build a heat shield underneath it. Ideally I'll build an airbox on the rear of the inner fender and use an OEM filter in it, and I might rig up a snorkelish thing there so I can draw air from outside the engine compartment completely. Still chewing on that though.
Also finalized the throttle cable - I don't have the Tacoma cable. I thought about shortening the 4Runner cable with a cable clamp or chunk of lead or something, and that would have been one way to do it, but I like cutting stuff with the angle grinder. I hacked up the Taco throttle cable bracket and spaced it away from the throttle body enough to put me right in the middle of the adjustment range on the stock throttle cable. I rolled the edges of the bracket to improve rigidity. #bootyfabftw
Still figuring out the wiring, and getting closer, but I had a minute to finish a couple little things. I don't have the stock air box, and the Megasquirt doesn't read a MAF, so I chopped up the intake and threw on a crap Spectra filter for now. I needed a place for the air temp sensor, which the Megasquirt DOES read, so I drilled a hole in the tube and grommeted it for the sensor to plug into. Worked out pretty slick I think.
That's not going to stay that way. The filter hangs right over the exhaust manifold, so at the least I'll build a heat shield underneath it. Ideally I'll build an airbox on the rear of the inner fender and use an OEM filter in it, and I might rig up a snorkelish thing there so I can draw air from outside the engine compartment completely. Still chewing on that though.
Also finalized the throttle cable - I don't have the Tacoma cable. I thought about shortening the 4Runner cable with a cable clamp or chunk of lead or something, and that would have been one way to do it, but I like cutting stuff with the angle grinder. I hacked up the Taco throttle cable bracket and spaced it away from the throttle body enough to put me right in the middle of the adjustment range on the stock throttle cable. I rolled the edges of the bracket to improve rigidity. #bootyfabftw
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- Location
- Stinkwater
While we're on the topic of booty fab, here's my ten cent EGR delete - hacked the flanges off the EGR pipe and JBWelded them shut with nickels. I could have used pennies, but I roll hella flush.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Nights are for research. Daylight is for tinkering. The serial connector is built, and the computer has a home. It's not waterproof, so I can't put it in the kickpanel where the stock computer lived. I decided to mount it in back of the glove box, and used some scraps of rubber to further isolate it from vibration. Next time I pull it out I'm going to go over it with some silicone anyway to at least keep the dust out.
The big hangup now is just working out the dual triggers the computer needs for timing.
The big hangup now is just working out the dual triggers the computer needs for timing.
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- Location
- Stinkwater
I thought this was interesting. With all the hullabaloo over how to make a reliable splice, you'd think the manufacturer would certainly do it "the right way", yeah? Nope. Crimp splices and electrical tape, all through the 3rz harness and now in the 22re harness.
I'm still going to solder and heat shrink everywhere I can, but I'm going to stop worrying about whether it's good enough.
I'm still going to solder and heat shrink everywhere I can, but I'm going to stop worrying about whether it's good enough.
I thought this was interesting. With all the hullabaloo over how to make a reliable splice, you'd think the manufacturer would certainly do it "the right way", yeah? Nope. Crimp splices and electrical tape, all through the 3rz harness and now in the 22re harness.
View attachment 94332
I'm still going to solder and heat shrink everywhere I can, but I'm going to stop worrying about whether it's good enough.
This is how the harnesses I have seen are done as well. You can pull some of then apart by hand.
- Location
- Stinkwater
The latest hangup has been getting a timing signal from the motor to the Megasquirt - my 3RZ doesn't have a cam position sensor, and the reluctor in the distributor only has one tooth. That seemed strange to me, but Toyota made it work. The Megasquirt doesn't like it though. The Megamanual refers frequently to using a Hall sensor and trigger wheel bolted on the crank pulley to provide timing on older motors, so I found a company called DIYAUTOTUNE that sells exactly such a setup, and emailed their tech support looking for help in figuring out the particulars. The fellow I worked with found me an easier solution that cost less than the stuff I was asking about buying, and when I pulled the trigger on the order I had an email with a Priority Mail tracking number three hours after I hit submit. Dudes are fast.
Here's what they sent me - they call it the Zeal daughterboard, and it does a lot of things I don't care about, and one thing that I DO care about, and that's modulating the signal from the VR pickup in the dizzy into something the Megasquirt can wrap it's brain around. The board itself comes unassembled, which is intimidating until you realize that in addition to the instructions posted on line, the board has the location for each component printed directly on it, and each component comes individually wrapped with it's part number and it's location on the board printed on a sticker. They've done their best to turn this into a Lego set, and it's great. I have to plug DIYAUTOTUNE, they've done their best to make this easy, short of assembling the board for me which likely would have doubled the price.
You don't have to solder Legos, though.
I just watched, like, three Youtube videos on assembling a PCB board, so now I'm almost an expert. I'm gonna botch this up anyway though.
Here's what they sent me - they call it the Zeal daughterboard, and it does a lot of things I don't care about, and one thing that I DO care about, and that's modulating the signal from the VR pickup in the dizzy into something the Megasquirt can wrap it's brain around. The board itself comes unassembled, which is intimidating until you realize that in addition to the instructions posted on line, the board has the location for each component printed directly on it, and each component comes individually wrapped with it's part number and it's location on the board printed on a sticker. They've done their best to turn this into a Lego set, and it's great. I have to plug DIYAUTOTUNE, they've done their best to make this easy, short of assembling the board for me which likely would have doubled the price.
You don't have to solder Legos, though.
I just watched, like, three Youtube videos on assembling a PCB board, so now I'm almost an expert. I'm gonna botch this up anyway though.
- Location
- Stinkwater
Got the Zeal board assembled and connected to the Megasquirt today. Got an email into DIYAUTOTUNE just to make sure I got all the connections correct, and assuming I did the next thing to do is make the connections between the engine harness and the computer (about an hour) and then I can plug into the Megasquirt and start programming. It's, like, progress or something.
So pretty.
Not pretty. But it should work.
Making connections on the Zeal board - I bought a $5 jig thing on Amazon and made another with a chunk of solid core wire and a pair of alligator clips. It's like having five hands!
Tying the Zeal board into the Megasquirt. Assuming I got all the connections correct, I can button these up in the case and be done messing with circuit boards.
So pretty.
Not pretty
. But it should work.
Making connections on the Zeal board - I bought a $5 jig thing on Amazon and made another with a chunk of solid core wire and a pair of alligator clips. It's like having five hands!
Tying the Zeal board into the Megasquirt. Assuming I got all the connections correct, I can button these up in the case and be done messing with circuit boards.
- Location
- Stinkwater
You don't need an adapter, at least not for the five speed? The motor bolts up using the W58 bell housing and W56 trans.
- Location
- Stinkwater
ORS has a conversion harness. I think Toy Only Swaps will build one too.
- Location
- Stinkwater
I thought you were my friend. There's nothing pretty about the Bastard and it hurts me deeply that you would say so.
I'm going to give this swap one more solid try before I cave and buy a conversion harness. My wiring wizard that I was depending on to walk me through this last bit has done a vanishing act, but I talked to B2Bomber a bit and I think he lined me out on some things to run down. So now I'm looking for wiring diagrams and plug pinouts for both the '95 and '96 Tacoma 4cyl 5speed 4wd. I know I can buy Alldata subscriptions, and I'm going to hit the library tomorrow morning and see what they've got, but I'm hoping that somebody on the board already has access to those diagrams and can hook a brother up? Let me know, I'm happy to reciprocate with tasty beverages or a nice lunch or whatever.
193kyle
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Chattanooga, TN
You should talk to Nick Panos, if he's not too busy these days he might be able to help you out.