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Toyota 22rte Smoking Like Crazy!!!

Z

zachvu

Member
Location
St. George
So here's the situation...

Background:
I received an 86 22rte pickup with a blown turbo (wouldn't go over 30mph). I found a used turbo and put it in, runs strong but smokes a little. As far as I remember it didn't smoke with the broken turbo in it.

When it Smokes:
Whenever I am in neutral (on or off the gas = same amount) or have negative acceleration (ie letting off the gas down a hill or downshifting) BUT only once the motor is warmed up completely

Other Info:
-Smoke is blue, but has a slight plastic or rubbery smell (could be the smell of burnt oil, I'm not sure exactly what that smells like)
-I burn through a good amount of oil...I'd say a quart every 200 miles
-I'm getting horrible gas mileage - 6 or 7 mpg freeway with 33's


So my questions are...

-What are the possible causes? (I've heard oil ring on piston, turbo, or valves)

-How can I check any or all of the previously stated to determine what is needed?
 
alwaysxj

alwaysxj

one hot moma!!!!
Location
Smithfield
i remember some of my ricer buddys cars, when they would have a bad turbo, they would smoke like crazy. i would say a bad turbo....
 
Last edited:
bull7467

bull7467

The Yellow Jeep Squad
Location
American Fork
Like has been said check for play in your turbo. On Larger turbos they have an oiler line that lubes the bearings. If there is play there is a good chance that oil is leaking past and causing the smoke. Check for air flow(filter and correct size tube) If the fuel pump is tuned for a turbo it will have a higher flow, causing your engine to run rich if ther is not enough air to clean it up. Also see if you have a stuck injector.

Now to check the stuff you mentioned, pull and look at your spark plug. If it has a lot of oil/carbon on it you are either getting it from below the piston( oil ring) or through the air intake/turbo.Also check the gap on them, improper gap can create a dead cylinder. Valves are a little tricky if you can take your valve cover off and look to see if any thing is bent/ misaligned or just not looking like the rest of them. Disconnect the main plug wire from coil/rotor and crank the engine. the best way to tell if your valves arent moving correctly is to take a straight line either on top of or to the side of the valves and see if they are moving equally. The only way I know to check if the seat is correct is to pull the head and look at it.

Hope this helps.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
bull7467 said:
Like has been said check for play in your turbo. On Larger turbos they have an oiler line that lubes the bearings. If there is play there is a good chance that oil is leaking past and causing the smoke. Check for air flow(filter and correct size tube) If the fuel pump is tuned for a turbo it will have a higher flow, causing your engine to run rich if ther is not enough air to clean it up. Also see if you have a stuck injector.

Now to check the stuff you mentioned, pull and look at your spark plug. If it has a lot of oil/carbon on it you are either getting it from below the piston( oil ring) or through the air intake/turbo.Also check the gap on them, improper gap can create a dead cylinder. Valves are a little tricky if you can take your valve cover off and look to see if any thing is bent/ misaligned or just not looking like the rest of them. Disconnect the main plug wire from coil/rotor and crank the engine. the best way to tell if your valves arent moving correctly is to take a straight line either on top of or to the side of the valves and see if they are moving equally. The only way I know to check if the seat is correct is to pull the head and look at it.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

A cylinder leakdown test can check the valve seats, sorta--at least, it isolates where you're losing compression, if you are.

Essentially you just use compressed air injected through a spark plug hole, and measure how long it takes to bleed down from wherever you start to an ending pressure. I'm sure there are specific things to look for, but when I've been around the testing we just wanted to see if all cylinders were about equal. If you have a bad valve or a broken ring, that cylinder will bleed down a lot faster.

A normal compression test might tell you some of the same info, too.
 
Z

zachvu

Member
Location
St. George
thanks for all the help guys.... is there any way to check the turbo without pulling it out again?? Also, the gasket mentioned that tends to go bad in these, is it one between the different parts of the turbo or what?

Will a rebuild kit like this one possibly solve that problem as long as there's not a significant amount of shaft play??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-Turbo-Oil-Water-Gasket-Kit-CT9-CT12-CT20-CT26-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem255a226603QQitemZ160425993731QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1380wt_813
 
bull7467

bull7467

The Yellow Jeep Squad
Location
American Fork
Thanks Carl good to learn.



For the sake of difficulty check the plugs/compression and bleed down levels as well as air flow. They are relativly easier and cheaper to test. Another resource is to call Industrial Injection in Salt Lake. They work primarily on diesel turbos but if they cant help you with the turbo they can point you in the direction of someone who could.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579557
Has some good info on your vaccum system.

http://www.ioffer.com/i/TOYOTA-22RE...-Garrett-T3-with-or-without-38mm-WGF-19095361
Has a new Manifold withe a Garret T3 turbo mount.:) If the turbo is bad this might be a good way to replace it. The T3 is fairly common.

http://www.yotatech.com
Seems to have a lot of yota information.
 
SUPERFLY

SUPERFLY

CaptainRob
Location
sugar house
You'd be better off swaping a whole 22re, the 22rte has low compression pistons so if you pull the turbo it will be extremely gutless, and won't run very well.
 
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