Toyota 3.slow to 3.4 swap 95 4Runner

[Fuller]

Well i am going to try and do a attempt on swap thread
Since i feel the need to change vehicles every few months, i decided to get another non running car and turn it in to a good runner, so the search was on. i happened to come across a clean looking 2nd gen runner with a small lift nice tires and a ARB bumper on ksl that ran but had an engine noise. When i talked to the guy on the phone he said it had lost compression and had a tick while running. after some negotiating i loaded the rig on a trailer and brought it home. It had a "tick" all right but more like a knock. I pulled the front axle assy and the oil pan and found that it had spun a bearing and the other cap i pulled was in real bad shape, so this would be an expensive rebuild. I looked on carpart.com and found some 3.4's listed, I came up with a parts list and started to call around. The guys down at Dwight's auto wrecking had fresh 96 4runner that ran good that was in a light front and a heavy rear accident, and they would sell all necessary parts for the swap for a grand. I placed the order and here we are today.

I had allready pulled the 3.0 out of the runner while i was waiting for the weekend to come so i could make the all day treck to pick up the engine. When i heard back from them that engine was ready to be picked up they told me that the truck was actualy a automatic not a 5 speed like i needed, my orginal plan was to get a 5 speed ECM and repin the harness but i got luck and found a 5 speed harnes and ecm on ebay so i bought that and i am glad i did.

So far i have the cross over built, ( i forgot to take pics of the procces but have some mid and end of procces) and the new 5 speed harness swap on to the motor.

Here is my parts list from the donor vehicle:
Engine with wirring, and all emisions and fuel induction parts.
exh manifold and crossover pipe
alt
steering pump
harness and ecu
intake manifold
the ing module
evap canister and vsv
air box assy afm and tubing
a/c compressor and lines
starter
battery tray
ac amplifier
obd 2 port under dash
throttle cable

The parts needed off of the 3.0
oil pan and baffle
oil pick up
motor mounts
dip stick
oil pressure sensor

New parts needed
rad hoses
battery cable extension
gasket maker for oil pan
and probaly more

 

[Fuller]

On the exh crossover build i ended up cutting the flanges off the crossover that mount to the manifolds and swapping the sides. i then cut the part that crosses over the bell housing off of the down pipe at the flange. i bolted the flange back onto the d/s manifold and cut and welded the down pipe back onto the d/s manifold. i then took the part that goes over the bell housing and cut it into pieces to rework it to cross over to the d/s and welded it all back together. i wish i would have taken more pics but i get to focused when i start working on something

 

[Fuller]

I did also pick up a damaged hood off of a Subaru impreza that i may graft the hood scoop into the 2nd gen hood to deal with the clearance issues but i really want to find a toyota hood with a scoop

 

[Rot Box]

Cool! Can't wait to see how it turns out

 

[Fuller]

today's progress:

i started of with replacing the front input shaft trans seal. there was some oil buildup in the bell housing so i decided to replace the front seal while i had everything apart.
oil on trans

new seal all installed and pre-lubed


I removed the 3.4's motor mounts and installed the 3.0's mounts. they are very similar but the mounting angle is just different. i had taken the high pressure fuel line and unbolted it and turned it around 180*, so it would attach to the stock fuel line with out an extension having to be made.

it usually bolts to the intake manifold on the other side of the engine, i am going to try and make a support for it latter
i also removed the plastic cover off of the steering shaft while the engine was out i read there a clearance problems with it still on.

i removed the fan assy while i was trying to drop the engine in because there was just not enough room to drop it in with it still attached. i dropped it in and bolted it up to the trans.

 

[Fuller]

here are some pics of the clearance for the exhaust







this is the down pipe and i am going to have to cut off the extra tab that is on the right of this pic, because it hits the torsion bar when i try to bolt it back up. i may need to cut the flange off and re-angle the pipes becaus it looks like it will be real close to the frame

 

[4Runner]

this is really sick. i wish that i could do this swap. did you do the exhaust like that or did you fab that up?

 

[Fuller]

this is really sick. i wish that i could do this swap. did you do the exhaust like that or did you fab that up?

i took the stock crossover and cut it up and used the pieces from that. its all toyota expect the small extension.

 

[Fuller]

I spent a lot of time working on it on sunday. i got the heater hoses hooked up, i used the pieces from both motors since they all looked to be in good shape. i worked on sorting the wiring in the engine compartment and getting is secured down. hooked the fuel line up. hooked up the hoses to the p/s pump, in order for that to work the alignment tab needs to be cut off of the high pressure side hose. I must be really lucky because from the research i have done the a/c lines will usually be really tight but mine bolted up just fine. i also worked on the evap canister, i had to make brackets to hold that on.

i will try and get some pics soon

I still need to swap out the oil pan, since i dont have my front axle assy in the truck i dropped the engine in with the 3.4 pan on since i didn't really want to try and swap it out on the engine hoist.

but i found that i have one seized spark plug so i am trying to soak some pen lube as per request by the wrecking yard before they find me another engine.

 

[4Runner]

is the swap pretty easy to do? did you have to change out the wiring harness and stuff like that from the stock engine. and with the spark plug i always use some aerokroil. if that pen lube dont work

 

[Fuller]

is the swap pretty easy to do? did you have to change out the wiring harness and stuff like that from the stock engine. and with the spark plug i always use some aerokroil. if that pen lube dont work

i don't think that it is the most difficult swap to do, but you need to have saws and a welder to make the crossover pipe and need to be able to understand wiring diagrams.

you need to use the wiring harness and ecu for the 3.4 liter.

 

[Fuller]

Update:
I got put the original radiator and fans shroud back in. i was planning on using the 3.4 fan but it is approx 2 inches bigger than the 3.0 fan and would not work with the fan shroud


In my box of parts that i got from the wrecking yard was the cruise control module and cable for the 3.4. i knew that i would not be able to use this and needed to use the 3.0 parts but i took it anyway, which was a good thing because i ended up using the cable off of the 3.4's cruise unit. it worked pretty good but i may need to extend the bracket that mounts to the throttle housing because i am out of adjustment and may need a tad more.

i took some pics of the evap box and the brackets i made




i feel pretty good the way it is mounted, one of the tabs was broken off so i cut it smooth. i may need to make another bracket for it I'm just thinking about how to do that.

I moved on to mounting the battery. i ended up getting some 1x1 angle and made a 10"x7" tray. i wanted to try and use the stock hold down and rod. so i added a tab to the tray for the hook on the rod to hook on to.



I had to massage the inner fender a little bit to get the box to fit squarely

I need to modify the hold down a bit so i don't need to use a spacer on the rad support side of the battery.

 

[Fuller]

I got to the oil pan swap. it was pretty straight forward. remove old oil pan and pick up tube assy. decide whether to modify the stock windage tray of the 3.4 or install the 3.0 windage tray. i decided to use the 3.4 tray since it seemed to me that there would be less of a chance for leakage with the 3.4 tray. the 3.0 tray sandwiches between the pan and the block and the 3.4 pan bolts to the bearing supports.

here it is stock

here it is with the hole cut for the pickup tube.


I also had to trim and edge that the oil pick up tube was hitting but i didn't take a pick of that.

While you have the pan off you need to remove the plug for the dipstick that is in the earlier blocks that is in the same place as the 3.0 dip stick tube. you then need to install the 3.0 dipstick there. i will get picks of this later. You also need to remove the 3.4 dipstick. to seal the hole i tapped it out using a 3/8's tap and put some sealant on the threads and installed into the hole.

to install the oil pan i used ultra copper gasket maker. i have had good luck with in the past using it without having a gasket, and there is no oil pan gasket for these just the silicone.

i installed the starter, support brackets for the bell housing and inspection plate for the flywheel.

I am having a problem with the air intake and box mounting. for some reason the air tube hits my fuse box in every other swap thread that i have read the pics show the fuse box being turned, and that is stock. i may need to build a new tube with a sharper angle coming off of the throttle body to clear the box. i will post some pics with what i come up with.

 

[SUPERFLY]

I just finished one of these swaps, turned out awesome!! The truck I did it to has stock gears and 35s but still ended up with plenty of power! If you need any help let me know

 

[SUPERFLY]

Speaking from failed experience, put your battery back on the stock side, then make your intake shorter. The drivers side fender will eventually crumble (even if reenforced) and break apart, it isn't designed for the weight of the battery.
This is a bad pic but it might give you some ideas, it's tight but it fits and works well

 

[Fuller]

Speaking from failed experience, put your battery back on the stock side, then make your intake shorter. The drivers side fender will eventually crumble (even if reenforced) and break apart, it isn't designed for the weight of the battery.
This is a bad pic but it might give you some ideas, it's tight but it fits and works well

that could fix my intake tube hitting the fuse box problem as well.

what year of truck is that in the pic, and what year swap is that as well?

 

[SUPERFLY]

It's a 95 4runner with a 97 3.4, it was a 5speed

 

[Fuller]

do you have the wirring diagrams for that swap still?

 

[SUPERFLY]

I do, what years do you have? Are you running an auto? I've never done an auto but I've heard they get tricky due to something with the tranny and the computer getting confused and reading a code?

 

[Fuller]

mine are 95 4runner with a 96 tacoma harness and ecu both 5 speeds.