3YLSYKR'S '85 4Runner Toy Build

Motor/Exhaust:
Newly rebuilt motor by a Toyota Technician.
LG cam
Header
Magnaflow catalytic converter
Magnaflow muffler 2-1/4" exhaust
Spark plugs
Spark plug 8mm wires red


Drivetrain:
Factory axles with 5:29 gears
Detroit locker (has almost a 1/4" turn of play in driveline. Think I have a bad locker unit. Time for a replacement when I can save up)
Synthetic fluid in trans, t-case, differentials


Chassis:
Trail gear axle truss on front axle


Suspension:
Marlin crossover steering
Marlin longer rear springs and RUF fronts


Wheels/Tires:
35x12.50 bfg mud km/t's
Black steel wheels with 1.5 wheel spacers


Body/Visual:
It has a pre-82 front grill/headlight conversion
Aftermarket bumpers and sliders
Manual temperature gauge
Grant GT wheel with relocated horn button
Removable doors with pins
Seat covers with seat belt shoulder straps
Window visors
New standard light bulbs all around
New front wiper blades
Dash mat cover


Future Modifications:
Window tint
Low profile bug shield
New rear window regulator and motor
Upgrade the intake manifold with a newer year one that doesn't angle down
Upgrade the throttle body with a larger 2.75" diameter Toyota Supra one
Upgrade the head from newer year or new aftermarket one
Upgrade the header to a Doug Thorley Tri-Y header for more low end torque
New door regulators (drivers seems to be sticking and wearing out and the door handles seem to be loose and have play in them even with new handles)
New bucket seats with seat warmers wired in
Add shoulder seat belts to roll bar for back seat passengers
New black vinyl carpet for entire inside area
Custom cubby hole storage areas in side panels in back
Custom center console out of aluminum
Swap out door panels, dash, mirror, seat belts, ect...from brown to grey (if I don't paint some things and replace others making them all black)
New front windshield
New tubular rear bumper with corner guards and receiver for towing the atv's
Upgrade the alternator to larger GM with adapter
Upgrade power steering setup to GM so cheaper to fix, easier to find
Custom short ram intake
Soft/Bikini top
Custom security box for when top is off
Dual t-case setup
Upgrade headlights to projectors and hid's
Add lights to front bumper and back bumper (possible hid's)
New clutch, stage 1 kit with everything I need
Over sized valves
Catch can setup (maybe)
Turbo setup
Meth injection setup (will adapt my manual system from my diesel truck I had)
Hidden antenna
CB radio
CD player with speakers and mp3 plug in adapter
Floor mats
Eagle 589 style wheels in black
Magnet for oil filter
Traction bars for rear
Welded on skid plates for differentials
Disc brake upgrade with 3" wider over all stance
Relocate parking brake to rear axle like it should be (safer for if lose drive line)
Fender flares (undecided)
Repaint with rustoleum paint on body and top.
Injectors with stainless braided lines (not sure if there are better rails)
Fuel pressure regulator
Custom built switch panel for all of switches, lights ect...
Rear defrost switch wired in
Coolant filter
External trans cooler
External trans filter
Steering stabilizer (if there is one single or dual)
Splash shields for front fenders
New rear wiper arm and blade if can find one or update for it
Fix hazzard lights that dont work


I'm looking to get back into wheeling again and learning more about these 4Runners from here.
I'm open to advice, tips ect...on upgrades, should and should not do's, anything...
 
Last edited:

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I've been having issues getting the truck running with a better coil. I installed new NGK plugs gapped at factory 31, and new 8.5mm wires. Everything runs fine on stock coil. I have tried using the MSD and Accel coils and the truck wont turn over and run. One time with the msd I think I had it running but was choppy. The depths of the stock coil and the others where the plug touches looks the same and should work both being canister style coils and using the Accel one most people use to double the output. I am trying to figure out if i'm doing something wrong. Do others who have no issues use Accel wires? I use an ebay set but have used sets from there before on many vehicles and have had not issues prior to this one. Can someone help me out?
 

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I currently don't have a stereo installed in the toy, or any speakers. I am thinking about one of the marine style setups with flip down security cover that's smoked so you cant see it. I was thinking about a single 10" sub and couple 4-6" round door speakers and a couple 6x9s in the back and an amp placed somewhere. What worries me is that when I wanna take the top off in the nicer weather, people will see stuff and steal it easily. I am trying to find a way like jeeps have to keep things anti theft for the most part as far as stereo and maybe a lock box of some sort and maybe a key lock upgrade on the glove box if that's possible? Trying to think ahead so I don't have to go through it all more than once. Anyone have any tips and ideas on what I could do?
 

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I have an extra gm alternator from my trans am I want to use to to upgrade the yota one so it can keep up with power draw of some 4" aftermarket hid offroad lights i'm going to install. I want to know how to make or where to buy a bracket if there is one to adapt to it. I heard there might be and be able to use factory belt too. Anyone have information on this or pictures?
 

slcpunk74

Original Saboteur
Location
WB,UT
What is your factory alt rated at? 35/55w hids don't draw very much continuously. On startup a little bit but if your charging system is in good shape you should be fine. Just saying if it turns out to be a bunch of work to convert to the gm style.


"EDIT"
You didn't say how many lights you wanted to run so my above statement was incorrect without first knowing the complete draw. If you have ten then maybe your toy stuff won't support it.
 
Last edited:

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I haven't been on here for quite a while and have a few updates for the ToyRunner.


Appearance:
I've added clear corner lights to the fronts.


I've added new tail light lens that are clear on top half and red on bottom half. I would have went all clear but kept some red to stay highway legal with the highway patrol. They say you have to have some sort of red reflector visible during the day.


Going to be swapping the round 7" headlights out with some open beam ones so I can use a HID kit 6000k with them. Going the cheaper projector style off ebay. Should work good enough. Thought about getting some with red halo rings on them for cool look but not sure yet.


Changed out the big brown trans shift knob to smaller black one.


Replaced torn shift boots with better one and painted the plate that sits on top of it.


Added bright led bulb to dome light.


Added some "badboy" decals to front window and rear of truck below window on top of tailgate.


Future Appearance:
Need to install new headliner as mine is falling apart and coming off on back side by dome light.


Still need to use fiberglass repair kit on the top and paint it with new black paint. I'm probably going to plasti dip paint the entire truck red and plasti dip paint the top black so more durable. I like the matte/semi gloss look of it. I painted my vette wheels on my trans am with it and turned out really nice.


Looking for some bigger better folding mirrors with more mirror view on the doors without going to a 2 point mirror setup. Maybe a newer toyota mirror setup from newer tacoma or tundra maybe that's black.


Trying to figure out if I want to diamond plate panel the inside of the truck with screws or velcro for easy removal to cover up the open areas inside.
I'll need to make sure I seal off all holes and areas first and probably put in some sound deadening and heat proofing mat in.


Need to install new weather stripping for doors, new window trim for doors inside and out so windows don't rattle when they are rolled down to a certain spot. Same with rear window on tailgate.


Currently Working on:
Wiring in a bunch of little led lights throughout the entire rig. Gonna have a push button for two led pods 6 led's each pod for under the hood. Gonna have a switch to turn on led pods for front floor and passenger floor areas. Gonna have another switch for the rear led pods for cargo area.


Mechanical:
I installed a new brake master cylinder. It started leaking after a little while so I need to remove and this time RTV it like I should have done the first go around instead of relying on just the gasket.


I've ported the TB, can't remember if mentioned that already or not. Going to port it some more and still looking for bigger supra TB and newer year intake manifold that comes out straight to TB and not downward angle.


Port matched the AFM better to the intake pieces. Going to be relocating the intake to take away the kink in the hose due to the body lift.


My EFI fuse melted on me on the freeway one night on the way home so I replace it with its own in line setup I can take out easier if needed for when tuning the AFM.


Installed a better 255lph walbro fuel pump for later when it gets the turbo setup on it since the one that was in it quite on me.


Installed better tensioner pulley.


Future Mechanical Plans:
Going to be adding a smart batter isolator with second batter on the frame or in the back.


Still haven't installed bigger gm alternator with bracket yet, need to do so.


Need to look into some new shocks soon, fronts are showing more signs of age as the front sits and squats more now.


Plan on installing some bright white reverse lights below the truck in the back and wiring to the deck lamp switch. That means they will only come on when accessory light switch is turned on. I hate that and wanna figure out how to disconnect that but it's ok for now.


Looking for a good electrical fan setup to take the crank fan off and free up a little bit more power. Not sure if there is a kit specifically. Probably have to use a summit universal kit.


Still need to replace the inner and outer seals and bearings on the rear axle so it wont leak anymore.


I dunno what else, lots of plans and ideas ahead.


Thanks for looking.
 
Last edited:

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
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3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
Only way to get new pulley to work is with some washers. The washers are flat, just weird lighting shadows in this pic make it look funny.
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New lenses
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Couple pics from 5 Mile pass recently
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3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
New matching electric horns from speedinc
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Painted up the center console from brown to black.
I wanna put a light in the back of it to light up the back seat area on the bottom maybe.
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I painted the hinge black as well after these pics.
Now I have to touch up the lid as I have scraped it good after my last adventure to 5 mile pass with my dog.


My drivers side leaks on rear axle, need to get all parts needed and replace seals so it will stop, and put new shoes on for now so I have better brakes as well as get rid of the LSPV in the rear and replace with adjustable valve up by the master cylinder. I also put new master cylinder for brakes on and now leaks at booster so need to remove and rtv it up so it will stop doing that.
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Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Nice truck. How do you like those horns, deeper tone than stock or are they those whiny euro-style?
 

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
Nice truck. How do you like those horns, deeper tone than stock or are they those whiny euro-style?

Thank you. I like them quite a bit. Not the best horns but pretty good sound for the money. Best bang for buck horns I've come across so far. They are pretty loud with both of them together. They don't sound whiny euro like to me, they have a good rich sound. Not the deepest sound or loudest but for the little I use them and being better than factory, it was a good choice. I'll have to record a little video clip of the sound and post it up so you can hear them.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Thank you. I like them quite a bit. Not the best horns but pretty good sound for the money. Best bang for buck horns I've come across so far. They are pretty loud with both of them together. They don't sound whiny euro like to me, they have a good rich sound. Not the deepest sound or loudest but for the little I use them and being better than factory, it was a good choice. I'll have to record a little video clip of the sound and post it up so you can hear them.

That would be cool, thanks. I hate the stock horn on these rigs. :)
 

mombobuggy

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
I like your truck kinda makes me wish I had kept my 85. But I think you are better off with your mechanical fan set up electric fans draw a lot of voltage and tax alternators and the battery. The first thing that I do whenever I get a new to me rig is figure out a way to get rid of the electric fan so many good rigs have bit the dust from an overheating issue caused by electric fans. also as your alternator works harder to feed them it takes more torque to turn it so in my humble opinion there is little or nothing to be gained from trashing a well designed factory fan and shroud setup. Think about those times when you barely make it home with a sorry alternator the extra draw on the system could not help in those situations. Beautiful T.A. by the way in the picture. Very cool car.
 

3YLSYKR

Member
Location
Riverton, UT
I like your truck kinda makes me wish I had kept my 85. But I think you are better off with your mechanical fan set up electric fans draw a lot of voltage and tax alternators and the battery. The first thing that I do whenever I get a new to me rig is figure out a way to get rid of the electric fan so many good rigs have bit the dust from an overheating issue caused by electric fans. also as your alternator works harder to feed them it takes more torque to turn it so in my humble opinion there is little or nothing to be gained from trashing a well designed factory fan and shroud setup. Think about those times when you barely make it home with a sorry alternator the extra draw on the system could not help in those situations. Beautiful T.A. by the way in the picture. Very cool car.

You make a good point about a sorry alternator and extra draw on it that could leave you stranded. The fan does work well and it never over heats. This thing stays cool really well. Probably helps that there is no AC condenser in the way of the radiator also haha. Thanks for the compliment on the car. Me, and 04goat and a few others are similar in the way of having a fast car like GTO or FBODY and a nice offroad 4runner or jeep. Makes it nice when you can have fun on and off road. Nice rig you got there, that looks like one mean machine that can handle anything you throw at it. Thanks for the info, I think you may have swayed me to keep it how it is. Why mess with it if it's not broke right.
 
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