4 link setup question

[Bluecrush]

It makes sense, my mind has been boggled since I started researching all this in the first place. From a side profile of the truck it looks like my intersecting lines will be almost at the top of the front section of the bellhousing. I thought that was close to what I was supposed to be aiming for? I do think I would rather have the vehicle lift in the rear, or be neutral, than suck down on inclines though.

 

[I Lean]

The weight transfer from the angle of whatever you're climbing will be much more noticeable in the form of your front end unloading, than any minor amount the rear is squatting. What will be noticeable is either lifting the driver's side front like Rockmonkey said, or plain old hopping. Either/both can be caused by too much antisquat. Too little antisquat won't really hurt you in any way, unless it's REALLY out of range.

What motor do you have? The less power you have, the less effect antisquat will tend to have--although gearing certainly plays a big part here too.

 

[utah340six]

i used this same kit on my yj, it seams to work great.
used coils at first, then changed the rear to FOA coil overs.

 

[Mope]

Rock Monkey, good explanation on anti-squat. I am beginning the research process, and I thought your explanation was good.

 

[Bluecrush]

The weight transfer from the angle of whatever you're climbing will be much more noticeable in the form of your front end unloading, than any minor amount the rear is squatting. What will be noticeable is either lifting the driver's side front like Rockmonkey said, or plain old hopping. Either/both can be caused by too much antisquat. Too little antisquat won't really hurt you in any way, unless it's REALLY out of range.

What motor do you have? The less power you have, the less effect antisquat will tend to have--although gearing certainly plays a big part here too.

It's a 22re, but I have a lot of gearing. I sure hope I don't get wheel hop, that is the reason I got rid of leaf springs. Drove me crazy

 

[Bluecrush]

The question I have for the front setup with triangulated uppers and straight lowers, does the vertical sepperation matter as much in the front as the rear? Lets say at the axle end there is 8" and at the frame there is only 1 or 2". The lower link mounts on the outside of the frame and the uppers on the inside of the frame.

 

[RockMonkey]

The question I have for the front setup with triangulated uppers and straight lowers, does the vertical sepperation matter as much in the front as the rear? Lets say at the axle end there is 8" and at the frame there is only 1 or 2". The lower link mounts on the outside of the frame and the uppers on the inside of the frame.

It doesn't matter nearly as much on the front. The setup you're talking about will give you "anti-dive" when you press on the brakes. Basically, it will resist nose-dive on braking.

My question is how are you going to fit triangulated uppers on a front suspension? Since there's generally an engine in the way, triangulated upper control arms are usually really hard to do on a front suspension without making it very tall. Also, unless you're running full hydraulic steering you don't want a triangulated link suspension setup up front. The axle will travel in a different arc than the drag link, and nearly always cause nasty bump steer. To solve both problems most people run straight lowers, a single straightish upper and a track bar the same length and angle as the drag link.

There are certainly many other options that can work, as well.

 

[Bluecrush]

Good info, thanks. I will be using full hydro steering so a drag link will not be an issue, the upper links fit with plenty of room on the sides of the motor, I'm just not sure about the distance between the link mounts and the oil pan, don't think it will be enough room. If anyone can show me some pics of there 3 or 4 link designs I'd love to see them.

 

[LT.]

I was wanting to ask a few questions and did not see any reason to start a new thread when this one was already here. Any help would be fantastic as I am now thinking about pouring gas on the rig and lighting a match. Is there a problem to making the upper links less than 40*? I was really wanting to run my lowers out to about 55" but, if I make my uppers at 38.5" ( 70% of the lowers) they will not be at 40*. Also, is there an idiot proof way to tell if my measurements will work or not? The reason I had wanted 55" lowers is that would put my lower links about where the arc of the rear driveshaft is. And some more questions, I read that the separation of the links in the center of the vehicle should be 50% of the distance on the axle is this correct? I will end up with about 10" of separation on the housing and I was planing on 5" in the center of the rig. Do I need more at the center? What about when I do the front? My lowers were going to be triangulated and the uppers were going to be straight with the frame rails. What should the % be from the lowers? Do I need a track bar in the front with the triangulated lowers?

Thanks for all the help.

LT.