85 Mitsubishi Turbo Diesel Buildup

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
So, I am in the middle of a building up my 1985 Mitsubishi turbo diesel pickup. It's a one of a kind build up and has presented it's own unique challenges. I have retained the original turbo diesel engine but it has been heavily modified for additional torque and durability. The IFS and rear suspension were removed and completely replaced. The truck has been completely gone through and the only things that are left are installing the tcase, driveshafts and paint.


Along with putting in hundreds of hours over the years I also have invested in some help from local shops. BHR helped by setting up the suspension and Mt. Logan Offroad is helping with the tcase setup.

Not only is this my offroad rig, but this is also my daily driver. No compromizes have been made and it drives better than my Lexus LX450.


So here's what been done so far

Engine:
2.3L Mitsubishi 4D55 Turbo Diesel
Watercooled TD04 Turbo
4D56 ported and polished head with roller rockers
Injection pump with an economy tune
Stinger battery

Transmission and Tcase:
Mitsubishi FM145 from a Ford Ranger
Centerforce II clutch
Atlas 5.0

Suspension:
JK 44 front axle with Elocker
Fox 14" Series 2.0 coilovers
Crossover steering
Currently three link, but will be a four link soon

JK 44 rear axle with Elocker
Trailgear Leaf springs
Bilstien Shocks
5.13 Gears
BFG KM 255/75/17 on Moab wheels

Interior:
Fully restored
New dash, carpet, OEM am/fm radio, steering wheel etc. etc.
DiPricol 15 psi boost gauge
DiPricol pyrometer

There is just to much to list, The has been nearly 30K sunk into this project and it still doesn't have a paint job, but who need paint anyway.


While doing this build up I have come to one realization, there is no roadmap for building up a Mitsubishi pickup, especially if you plan on keeping the stock motor and tranny like I have. While the Mitsubishi's are great trucks and are superior to Toyota's in many way's, they do have a few fatal flaws as far as rock crawling is concerned, namely the tcase and the IFS.

Here are a few pics

565119_68_full.jpg
 
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spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
I wanted to ask you what you did for your locker wiring.

I haven't wired mine in yet...

I bought some rocker switches from http://www.otrattw.com/


They are cool little switches because they have the locker symbols on them and everything. They are the same switch that ARB uses but they dont say "air locker", instead the say "front locker" and "rear locker". I think I paid like $12 a switch and the customer service is awsome. They sell many other switches as well.


frontlocker.jpg


rear.jpg
 
Location
Murray
The paint looks fine. Why paint over a cherry vintage rig like that when it's in perfectly good shape. I'd make up some body armor to protect that thing since it's a one of a kind.
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
The paint looks fine. Why paint over a cherry vintage rig like that when it's in perfectly good shape. I'd make up some body armor to protect that thing since it's a one of a kind.


The paint is ok, but it was recent hit in the bed so I have replaced the bed with one I got from a wrecking yard. The color is close but it is not exact. It also has new fiberglass front fenders which have larger wheel openings and more flare to cover the tires. There's also some slight surface rust creeping into the rockers and I need to put a stop to that immediately. I want it to look as good as it drives and wheels.

I have some awsome sliders for it sitting down at BHR that need to be welded on, but I was hoping to paint it first.
 
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Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
I bought some rocker switches from http://www.otrattw.com/


They are cool little switches because they have the locker symbols on them and everything. They are the same switch that ARB uses but they dont say "air locker", instead the say "front locker" and "rear locker". I think I paid like $12 a switch and the customer service is awsome. They sell many other switches as well.


frontlocker.jpg


rear.jpg

Thanks, I found the same switches, I was more wondering about the axle side. I may have the opportunity to pick over a complete wiring harness from an 08 rubicon that had an engine fire, but if not, I need options. I'd like a factory weatherproof connector, but I really don't want to buy a complete harness (otherwise they'd already be done).

That did you use for the axle side?
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
Thanks, I found the same switches, I was more wondering about the axle side. I may have the opportunity to pick over a complete wiring harness from an 08 rubicon that had an engine fire, but if not, I need options. I'd like a factory weatherproof connector, but I really don't want to buy a complete harness (otherwise they'd already be done).

That did you use for the axle side?


I haven't wired the axle side yet, BHR ran the wiring and it is just stubbed to the front and rear axles. I am still waiting to install the tcase. I was thinking of just cutting the factory connector and adding a new connector.

Also I have been looking for a good deal on an NP241OR (Jeep Rubicon Tcase) for last 10 months and I finally found one for $650.:)

!BQEfVP!B2k~$(KGrHgoH-CIEjlLl4NtwBJ25kCE2Cw~~_1.JPG
 

Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
Thanks for the info, and I'm jealous of that case.

FYI, on the axle side, the connector with the pigtail is for the locker indicator, not the locker. The one that is fit right to the axle does the engaging/disengaging, it's not really a simple ship and fit affair...
If I can come up with some extra connectors I'll let you know.

Great build... I love oddball stuff that you don't see every day.
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
Thanks for the info, and I'm jealous of that case.

FYI, on the axle side, the connector with the pigtail is for the locker indicator, not the locker. The one that is fit right to the axle does the engaging/disengaging, it's not really a simple ship and fit affair...
If I can come up with some extra connectors I'll let you know.

Great build... I love oddball stuff that you don't see every day.

Yeah, I am not terribly worried about it, BHR still owes me a few things and I think wiring the lockers is one of them. They also still owe me a front drive shaft and some sliders. Ben, Matt, Von and the rest of the guys have been great to work with over the past year and they are largely responsible for the suspension work.

When it's all said and done this truck will be 1/2 Mitsubishi and 1/2 Jeep Rubicon. Jeep should have made the Rubicons with a diesel to start with.:)
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
So, I need to get another transfercase because the one I purchased had a small crack in the housing. I have decided to change directions and go with an Atlas instead of the NP241OR Tcase. The only decision I have left is whether to go with the 4.3 or the 5.0 Atlas. The truck originally came with a 1.94:1 low range but thats just not going to cut it. I am leaning towards the 5.0:1 Atlas because I have an 84hp 2.3 liter turbo diesel, manual transmission and 32-33" tires. Here is a breakdown of the different crawl ratios of the different low range ratios. I would much appreciate any input on which ratio I should go with.

ratios.bmp
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
The ring and pinion is currently 5.13 but I am going to regear it to 4.56 which will correct my speedo and return me to the stock ratio. Right now I max out on the freeway at 65mph which is fine but I hate to wind out the motor just to do 65mph on the freeway. I also hope that by going with the 4.56 gears that I can even get better than 35-40mpg.
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
I had serious depature angle problems with my 78 sectioned 19" out of the bed.

I have no intention of bobbing the bed, I am trying to restore the truck back to as close to original with just a few upgrades to the drivetrain and the suspension. I have wheeled it at Moab many times over the years and I have never had any issues with the departure angle.

I use this truck as my daily driver and I am just as concerned with it streetability as trailability. I also plan to use is as a high speed desert racer so it not all about rock crawling. I just want to make sure I have the proper low range ratio when I do hit the rocks. I think I will go with the 5:1 Atlas the more I think about it, 90:1 crawl ratio just sounds cool.
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
35-40mpg??!!


Yeah since having the engine and fuel injection overhauled 5 months ago, it has been getting 33-35 city and 38-41 freeway according to my gps. I do add a Stanadyne additive as well which does increase the cetane level and improve lubrication but I only add 2oz of Stanadyne per tank. It has a little 18 gallon tank and I usually get around 650-700 miles per tank.

My Lexus Lx450 on the other hand gets around 14-15mpg but I have seen as high as 16 with a stong tail wind while driving downhill.:rofl:
 
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