85 toyota truck ?'s (I have been searching but no luck)

Fuller

Formerly limegrnxj
Location
Riverton
Hey guys,

I am new to the mini truck realm and I just sold my FZJ80:sick: , but I was able to pick up a 85 single cab truck. I am going to miss my 80 but my uncle had one of these trucks when I was younger and I have always wanted one since so i am happy about finally having one.

The truck I picked up is in pretty decent shape and needs to be brought back to life. I have been working on changing the timing chain, cover, water and oil pump. I just got it all back together and its looking OK. one problem I ran into was when I put the cover back on the head gasket didn't line up and it was pretty twisted, so I tried to put some silicone on it to keep the oil in the engine but I think I will have to bite the bullet and change the head gasket.

The stuff I have been searching for answers is. The truck has an auto and the guy had given me all the parts to swap in a 5 speed, but I cant find the answer to which wire I need to jump so the computer will think its in neutral?

I have also been researching lift stuff, i am sure there are some cheap mods to get some lift out of this bugger that will work well, like 63" Chevy springs in the rear and swap the rears out to the front. seams pretty simple but what length of shocks to run? and remove the sway bar and traction bar?

I have also seen some stuff regarding putting an IFS box in, but I cant find thread that gives specific details to why?

One more thing that I just came across is, can you run a bench seat with using double transfer cases?

well I think that is it for now TIA
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
answers

Okay I can answer a few, the length of shocks veries on where you mount them, if stock they will be short like 14 inchs collapsed and such, you didn't say if it is a V6 or 4banger, but i will assume it is a 4cylinder and that the rears up front will give you a about 4 to 5 inchs of lift, as for the IFS box is swithched in because you are running high steer, which if you are lifting it you will need to anyways, so plan on the high steer kit, Datin fab sells it for $284, they make it for trail gear and Allpro so it's solid, and yes remove the front track bar, but you can keep the sway bar just need to extend the links, anything else? oh don't know about the head gasket other than yes you will need to change it:hickey:
 

choptopbII

Well-Known Member
Location
Clearfield, UT
For the neutral saftey switch, you will need to short/jump the two wires for it. There should be a couple of plugs that unplug from the engine harness that go to the automatic. The saftey switch uses two thick black Uhhh.. wires that run right to the computer in the pass. side kick pannel. Once you've found these short them either at the plug, at the computer or run them sumewhere in your cab with a switch for an easy kill switch. If this dosen't make sense just look at a wiring diagram in the FSM (if you don't have the fsm google 1985 toyota fsm and you can download it for free).

heres what i did to mine...

P9100331.jpg


P9100332.jpg


P9130335.jpg


P9130338.jpg


It's been a cupple years sense i swapped mine to a manual, but i should be able to answer some of your questions if you have any...
 

88 Runner SAS

Saving Money For Parts
Location
Monticello
Stock push pull steering causes a lot of binding when lifted and flexed, it also limits steering when flexed. In some cases the j-arm bends or breaks when flexed a lot because the weight of your axle hangs on it. So an IFS box and cross over steering is the way to go. You may need to swap in a few more leaves from another pack when doing r.u.f. as they are soft long springs, but flex very well. Just have to mess with the packs till you get em where you want em.
 

Rot Box

Diesel and Dust
Supporting Member
Location
Smithfield Utah
one problem I ran into was when I put the cover back on the head gasket didn't line up and it was pretty twisted, so I tried to put some silicone on it to keep the oil in the engine but I think I will have to bite the bullet and change the head gasket.

I have also been researching lift stuff, i am sure there are some cheap mods to get some lift out of this bugger that will work well, like 63" Chevy springs in the rear and swap the rears out to the front. seams pretty simple but what length of shocks to run? and remove the sway bar and traction bar?

I have also seen some stuff regarding putting an IFS box in, but I cant find thread that gives specific details to why?

One more thing that I just came across is, can you run a bench seat with using double transfer cases?

Great advice so far :cool:

I wouldn't worry about the torn head gasket in that spot. I have actually cut the head gasket completely out in that area and used silicone before and it worked great. If it does come down to changing the whole gasket just undo the exhaust manifold side and lift the head away with the intake side still on. That will save you a bunch of time.

Lifts are very cheap and simple on these trucks. The main problem with lifts is the steering. Not only are the j-arms notoriously weak because of their design need that anti-torque rod to remain in place or really scary things happen during hard braking. I have unsuccessfully tried all the tricks to making stock steering work, and in the long run I decided that if I ever lift a truck more than 2" hi steer will be mandatory. Push pull steering does not work safely with flexy/soft springs that are arched.

Brakes: The stock rotors are non-vented and it does not take much to overheat them and loose braking altogether with larger than stock tires--ask me how I know :ugh: The common swap uses FJ60 rotors and 86-95 (preferably from a factory V6 but either will work) IFS truck/4runner calipers. All of this will bolt on and braking performance will be improved dramatically. Remember that if you plan to run a tire larger than 33x12.50 you will need wheel spacers for the front and an 86-95 4x4 axle for the rear (3" wider + larger brakes).

Lastly you can use the bench seat, but you will need to modify the shifter. I believe Marlin sells a "dog leg" shifter, but you can also make your own.

Hope this helps.
 

Fuller

Formerly limegrnxj
Location
Riverton
This is all great info. thanks guys.

I am not sure on what size of tires i want to run, (this is going to be a ways down the road) but I want to build a 3-4 inch suspension, and run the 31's that are on it for a while and maybe go 33's. one thing i don't want to do is put to big of tires on till I can re-gear the axles with this little engine.
 

Fuller

Formerly limegrnxj
Location
Riverton
I have a questions about the trans swap.
I dont need to leave the computer for the trans pluged in, right?
 

choptopbII

Well-Known Member
Location
Clearfield, UT
I would just try it and see what happens, after all it's just some sensors, if it acts up plug it in or just leave it

No its the computer module for the automatic transmission...

And like i said you can take it out or un-plug it, Or leave it alone and keep it plugged in... you're choice. I ran my truck with it plugged in for a while until i realized it wasn't needed anymore. Runs exactly the same with it out. :cool:
 

Fuller

Formerly limegrnxj
Location
Riverton
Great thanks guys, I am putting new carpet in and the center console isn't going to work anymore, and I don't want that thing staring me in the face. lol
 

Fuller

Formerly limegrnxj
Location
Riverton
Hey I Have another question.

I am looking for the open circuit relay, the FSM says to remove the left kick panel and it should be right there. I did that and i don't see it. Do i need to remove the lower dash and speaker assy as well?
 

turbohaulic

I don't know it just is!
Location
Hyde Park, UT
If your wanting to keep the lift low, I don't know if I'd swap the rears to the front. From what I've read (never done it so I don't know for sure) it is a 4-5" lift, like said earlier. I've ran the trail gear 3" springs for 3 yrs now and they've been great. My little brother has the all-pro 4" and they're just as good. And the front springs are pretty cheap. Like 200 bones new:)

X2 on the steering too, cross over is a must!!:D
 

leorn

reset
Location
Roy
In my opinion the rears are better than any aftermarket lift. Don't forget to put an antiwrap leaf in the pack.
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
I have the rears up front with a anti wrap leaf and they seem great, the guy i got them from said they were just as flexy and good if not better then his all pro pack he swapped in in it's place, but i had to add two leafs to the pack because i have a V6 and it's much heavier, so if you have the same keep that in mind
 
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