maquet24
Member
Just bought a 66 Ford Bronco a few weeks ago and have already made some mods. The most needed was a brake job. I first swapped in a dana 44 in the front and put the later model F 150 knuckles and discs on.
After test driving it I found it still wasn't stopping well so I decided to tear into the rear end drums.
What I found was that I have a BIG BEARING Axle, with 1/2" WHEEL STUDS, and 5 x 5.5 LUG PATTERN
After alot of research and alot of trips to different parts stores this is what I came up with parts wise to build the conversion
[*]94 Dodge 1/2 ton front rotors, AutoZone, $32.00 each
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton front Calipers, AutoZone, $10.00 + $11.00 core each
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton Brake pads, AutoZone, $21.00 both sides
[*]Chevy caliper bolts, Auto Zone, $5.00 set of two
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton front brake lines, Auto Zone, $20.00 each
[*]Banjo bolts, "HELP!" part #13935, Parts Plus & Advanced Auto, $4.00 each
[*]Brake Caliper Bracket, part #ALL42100 PitStopUSA.com, $47.00 both including shipping.
[*]1/8" strap metal, Lowes, $8.00
Total $218.00
What tools You'll need to do the conversion
[*]Basic hand tools
[*]Drill with bits
[*]Hand Grinder
[*]Access to a welder
This is what I did:
[*]Romoved the drums and Axle shafts
[*]Ground down the rust/paint around the end of the axle tube in about 6"
[*]Cut and welded together the 1/8" strap metal to replace the spacing that would be lost from removing the brake drums. Drilled holes in the new spacer and fit it on the end of the axle tube.
[*]Ground down the axle flanges that hold the wheel studs. (This part sucked) the 94 Dodge rotors were the closest I could find that would fit around the flange. The Ford F150's were way too small. I heard that CJ7 rotors may work but I never tried it myself. Either way I ended up grinding about 1/8" all the way around or about 1/4" off the total diameter. (took about 45minutes per side) A machine shop said they would do it for me for about $30.00, but in my infinite wisdom I decided to save a few bucks. (I'd pay for it next time)
[*]Reinstalled the axle shafts
[*]Placed the rotors on the flanges with some lug nuts.
[*]Assembled the brake caliper onto the caliper bracket with the brake pads on it and placed it on the rotor to tack weld it in place.
[*]Removed the caliper, pads, and rotor and finish welded the bracket in place.
[*]Painted all bare metal
[*]Reinstalled the rotor, caliper, pads and hooked up the brake lines
[*]Bled the brakes and put the tires back on
Final Result
The master cylinder already had a brake booster on it but now the Bronco stops about 10 times better. I opted not to change the proportioning valve at this time, but I may in the future. The brakes feel firm throughout compression and there's a point near the end of travel that I can tell if I continue compression it will lock up the rear end. (Which I do occassionally)
Hope this helps anyone interested in doing a similar conversion. Email me with any questions
Mike
Maquet24@msn.com
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After test driving it I found it still wasn't stopping well so I decided to tear into the rear end drums.
What I found was that I have a BIG BEARING Axle, with 1/2" WHEEL STUDS, and 5 x 5.5 LUG PATTERN
After alot of research and alot of trips to different parts stores this is what I came up with parts wise to build the conversion
[*]94 Dodge 1/2 ton front rotors, AutoZone, $32.00 each
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton front Calipers, AutoZone, $10.00 + $11.00 core each
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton Brake pads, AutoZone, $21.00 both sides
[*]Chevy caliper bolts, Auto Zone, $5.00 set of two
[*]78 Chevy 1/2 ton front brake lines, Auto Zone, $20.00 each
[*]Banjo bolts, "HELP!" part #13935, Parts Plus & Advanced Auto, $4.00 each
[*]Brake Caliper Bracket, part #ALL42100 PitStopUSA.com, $47.00 both including shipping.
[*]1/8" strap metal, Lowes, $8.00
Total $218.00
What tools You'll need to do the conversion
[*]Basic hand tools
[*]Drill with bits
[*]Hand Grinder
[*]Access to a welder
This is what I did:
[*]Romoved the drums and Axle shafts
[*]Ground down the rust/paint around the end of the axle tube in about 6"
[*]Cut and welded together the 1/8" strap metal to replace the spacing that would be lost from removing the brake drums. Drilled holes in the new spacer and fit it on the end of the axle tube.
[*]Ground down the axle flanges that hold the wheel studs. (This part sucked) the 94 Dodge rotors were the closest I could find that would fit around the flange. The Ford F150's were way too small. I heard that CJ7 rotors may work but I never tried it myself. Either way I ended up grinding about 1/8" all the way around or about 1/4" off the total diameter. (took about 45minutes per side) A machine shop said they would do it for me for about $30.00, but in my infinite wisdom I decided to save a few bucks. (I'd pay for it next time)
[*]Reinstalled the axle shafts
[*]Placed the rotors on the flanges with some lug nuts.
[*]Assembled the brake caliper onto the caliper bracket with the brake pads on it and placed it on the rotor to tack weld it in place.
[*]Removed the caliper, pads, and rotor and finish welded the bracket in place.
[*]Painted all bare metal
[*]Reinstalled the rotor, caliper, pads and hooked up the brake lines
[*]Bled the brakes and put the tires back on
Final Result
The master cylinder already had a brake booster on it but now the Bronco stops about 10 times better. I opted not to change the proportioning valve at this time, but I may in the future. The brakes feel firm throughout compression and there's a point near the end of travel that I can tell if I continue compression it will lock up the rear end. (Which I do occassionally)
Hope this helps anyone interested in doing a similar conversion. Email me with any questions
Mike
Maquet24@msn.com
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