9" Rearend

Slangy

Sgt. CulPepper
Location
Utah
I am wanting to find a 9" rearend that I can swap into my Jeep. When searching for the axle what do I need to look for. Which axles can and can't be shortened what year of vehicle should I look to get it from etc.
I am wanting to put a detroit in it with 4.88's. I would eventually like to go to 37's in the future.
I have done a fair amount of reading but I want to get some advice from you guys to help me feel confident I am buying the right one. Thanks
 

soda blaster

Active Member
Location
Saratoga Springs
There are a few out there that are better I would look for one that has the built in trussing the housing is a little heavier duty. I got mine out of a 78 flat bed truck.
 

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Depends on how wide you want, early bronco 9" is about 58" wide (I think)

You can truss and strong back the 9" housing and end up with more beef than a stock newer housing. Instead of custom shafts you can use a standard off the shelf alloy 31 spline bronco shaft.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
One thing to consider, a Ford 9" has the lowest pinion of all axles, making them difficult to swap into a short wheel-base Jeep. You could spend the big $$$ and add a 'Hi 9' 3rd member, but that's a ton of dough.
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
EB 9" only came with 28 spline axles. Later years were big bearing, making the swap to 31 spline easy....but not cheap ($400 or so for axles)
78 and later big Broncos and F150's have the stonger housing, but the are "full width"
Late 70's early eighties big ford cars are also good donors and if you look hard, you can find just the right years with disk brakes....
I am not aware of any stock 4.88 in a 9". But there is no carrier split in a 9" so no worries, r/p's are pretty cheap for them.
Yes, it is the lowest pinion, but it is also the shortest pinion....kinda offsets the driveline angle difference. But, they do tend to hit rocks:greg:

Spidertrax makes some very reasonable priced housings to your width.
Currie and 9Plus are also good sources.
9" is the SBC of the axle world, everybody makes parts for it, and they are pretty cheap....

TruHi 9" is the snizzle, but $$$$
 

Slangy

Sgt. CulPepper
Location
Utah
I was not to concerned with finding one with the right ratio I will just put a new one in. So I guess another question, would it be better to search around for a 60 and have it shortened to the width I want. I don't want to start a battle of 60's vs 9's but I am a noob when it comes to axle swaps. When talking money which would be on the lesser side. Sorry for the dumb questions I am just trying to do this one time instead of doing it 3 or 4 times like my suspension.
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Honestly, in the end it will end up cheaper to order what you want.
Starting with a JY core really doesn't save you unless you do EVERYTHING yourself....
For a Wrangler I would say a 60 is a better option for $$ vs stregth. A Full one high $$ 9" I would argue is better, but not at the level of $$ you are looking at.
Problem with a JY 60 is it will be full float and 30 spline shafts. (except for a few odd balls that are impossible to find) So You will have to have it narrowed and bearing pockets installed, same as a 9". Or have the spindles bored out to accept 35 spline shafts.
Brakes and bolt pattern are also and issue with JY axles.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
9"s are cheaper to build, but I'd rather have a 60. My last two builds have had 35 spline 60s, and my current build is a 31 spline 9". If you're on a tight budget or just want to build cheap, find a 31 spline 9". I would say 37s are pushing the limits of those shafts though, depending on how and where you drive. Due to the lowness of the pinion on the 9" you may find yourself maxing out the angle of your driveline u-joints too. Plan accordingly. 9"s are eleventy-billion times easier to set up gears than 60s, if you're doing the work yourself. If you're going to pay someone to narrow an axle, buy new shafts and swap carriers to 35 spline, and re-gear it, I'd get a 60.

I guess if you're going the cheap route you'll get more bang for your buck from a 9", but if you're going to pay out some money to really build an axle, you're better off putting money into a 60. Yeah, so even I can't tell what I'm recommending here, but those are my thoughts. I don't want to get into a 60/9" debate tonight either.
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
If the biggest tires you are going to run are 37's, you may want to look at the Ford 8.8. I went through the idea and running a 9 for a long time, but finally decided on the 8.8. I currently only run 35's, but if your driving style isn't too hard, I think you would be fine with 37's. You won't have to worry about shortening the width, and if you are not doing anything with the front axle at the present moment, the bolt pattern will be the same as your D30. I don't know what gearing options there are for the 8.8 though.

However, given the fact that you said 37's, I have to assume that you are going to replace that front axle (if you haven't already). If this is the case, the 8.8 may not be your best route since a new front axle will have a different bolt pattern. There is always the option on wheel adapters, but opinions vary on those.

What would be probably the cheapest in the long run (but most expensive at the moment) would be to do both axles at once, and get them both from the same vehicle if possible. Then you would have your matching bolt patterns. D44's with alloy shafts would be sufficient for running 37's. I personally just don't see a need for a 60 unless you go larger than 37's.
 

Slangy

Sgt. CulPepper
Location
Utah
Thanks guys. I have gone the cheap route before and in the long run it ends up costing me more than if I would have spent the extra cash and done it right the first time. So from the sounds of it I will probably end up placing my money in the 60.
So let's say I buy a 60, what would be the better route to go. Buy one brand new or try finding one, having it shortened etc etc.
 

Slangy

Sgt. CulPepper
Location
Utah
I am not a way hardcore driver at the time because I have been in school and have not been able to afford to fix the stupid thing if I have a major break down. So what I am trying to say is that one day way down the road if I actually get some money I would like to go bigger than 37 inch tires. I have looked at the 8.8 but i priced that out and it seemed that for a little more money I could get a larger rear end.

S*** I don't know what the hell I want. I guess I will just keep looking into it and when I get one of those urges to blow some money I will worry about it on that day.
Thanks again guys at least I am looking at the pros and cons of each a litlle differently now.
 

1993yj

.
Location
Salt Lake
Good point about the 8.8. Price wise, rear ends are relatively cheap. It's the front that gets expensive. The price of a front 60 is the only reason I didn't do both axles.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Like a few have said: shy away from the 28 spline ones like in early broncos and mustangs,
also look for a newer style housing that is non banjo for strength.
one advantage is because the housing is sheet metal you can weld to the diff... makes it easier for linked suspensions...
I'm still looking under junkyard rigs hoping someday I'll find a Nodular third member lol
 
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