96 land rover discovery , 33's no lift

Nope, stock rover axles with ashcroft shafts, Detroit in back (Great Basin shafts) and TruTrac up front. This was a perfect set-up for all year wheeling. If I didn't care about keeping the body straight, I would have kept this one!

As for trimming against the door, I split the seam, cut the inside sheet, then notched and folded over the outside sheet to cover up the new seam. I had to tear out the rubber seal and then buy some replacement seals with the sticky tape. I'll try to dig up some pics, but i'm sure it wont be that different for a DI.
 
It was in the plans, but my taste for rocks grew faster than I thought. I sold it and built the green yota before I regeared it. In low it was actually not bad. These have GREAT t-cases and on the freeway, I'd easily go 75 (that's as fast as my tires wanted to go). I'd love to build a D1 some day.
 
James, what are your goals for this rig? What will it spend 90% of its life doing? Will you be towing with it? Will it be your only DD? Will it be used for camping, long-distance trips, or rock crawling trails like pritchett, helldorado, etc? What are your priorities (in order of importance) regarding MPG, reliability, crawl-ability, long-distance ability, towing ability, top speed, budget, resale, etc? That might help ya decide what you want to do with it.
 
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dzeyer said:
Nope, stock rover axles with ashcroft shafts, Detroit in back (Great Basin shafts) and TruTrac up front. This was a perfect set-up for all year wheeling. If I didn't care about keeping the body straight, I would have kept this one!

As for trimming against the door, I split the seam, cut the inside sheet, then notched and folded over the outside sheet to cover up the new seam. I had to tear out the rubber seal and then buy some replacement seals with the sticky tape. I'll try to dig up some pics, but i'm sure it wont be that different for a DI.
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D1 has smaller fender openings than D2's.

Classic Range Rovers have more similar sized wheel wells, and when I had my 89 it had 33's on it but I had to cut the rear doors and "massage" the front inner fender wells to clear them with a 3" lift
 
Another option might be to lengthen the radius arms an inch or so. I did that with my DII, but again, the DI arms might be different. The DIIs are cast, so I had them professionally welded. With that mild of an adjustment, I didn't need to relocate the spring perches/buckets at all. I did get rid of the watts linkage, but I don't know if DIs have the watts or just a panhard. Man! this is making me want to get a DI to build!!

Also, call Bill over at Great Basin Rovers in Salt Lake (http://gbrutah.com or
801.486.5049​
). He'll talk your ear off and let you know anything and everything that you should do... He's a great guy to get to know if you are going to stay with the rover for a while. I didn't buy everything from him (rovertyme has some great stuff), but he is a well of knowledge and will spend the time to chat. He also stands 100% behind his stuff.
 
I had 33's on my 98D1 and the cheapest way I could keep the tires out of the rear doors was to do a 2" spacer lift. I used the truck for 6 years that way as a DD, cross country camping vehicle, mild tow rig, medium duty trial rig.

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And of course heres the tow pic that got me started down the path of a D1
Disco_pulling a Sammi.jpg

Mine was with 285's when I pulled a tandem trailer...
 

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dzeyer said:
Another option might be to lengthen the radius arms an inch or so. I did that with my DII, but again, the DI arms might be different. The DIIs are cast, so I had them professionally welded. With that mild of an adjustment, I didn't need to relocate the spring perches/buckets at all. I did get rid of the watts linkage, but I don't know if DIs have the watts or just a panhard. Man! this is making me want to get a DI to build!!

Also, call Bill over at Great Basin Rovers in Salt Lake (http://gbrutah.com or
801.486.5049​
). He'll talk your ear off and let you know anything and everything that you should do... He's a great guy to get to know if you are going to stay with the rover for a while. I didn't buy everything from him (rovertyme has some great stuff), but he is a well of knowledge and will spend the time to chat. He also stands 100% behind his stuff.
Click to expand...

d1 rear suspension is different, it uses a 3 link set up with a wishbone shaped upper link.

Did you put a standard panhard bar in place when you took out the watts link?
 
Yeah. It simplified things a ton for the rear and let the rear cycle more. The Watts would bind with just a 2" OME lift. The only difference is with the Watts I could drive on-road & off-road without a swaybar and feel OK. After the panhard, I wanted to put swaybars on the rear for on-road.
 
ryan that pic of the rover pulling the zuk is why i bought my first rover! .

i have thought about extending the rear arms to not have to trim the door..

i picked up a d2 front axle and arms and panhard and coils yesterday for free.

i've thought about using the arms for the rear, ditch the wishbone and run the panhard.

ps the bottom of the door has 2 sealsso you can trim alot there and have no problem..

might trim it out even more than i need to.. then build a front tube bumper and sliders then run some tube on the edge of the fenders and door( so the door still opens and closes
 
so i think im gona buy ryans 2 inch spacer lift for now.. and if it feels to top heavy i will trim and lower later.. still got to get it past emissions.. the CEL came on on the way home .. needs a new cat..
 
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