96 Runner SAS ???

Thardy

Thardy

"FARM TOY"
Location
Santaquin, Utah
I'm getting ready to start the SAS on my 3rd gen 4Runner. The plan is to start cutting on March 1st. I know that's a couple of months out, but it will give me some time to gather the parts I need. My question is what do I need? I've done a ton of research but still feel like I'm forgetting things. I also know that as I go I will find more that I need, but I want to have most of it so I can get a good start.

What I know I have:
Axle
Flat top Knuckles
High steer arms
Leaf Springs
5.29 Gears
Steering box
Shackle Hangers (being built by a buddy)
Spring hangers (being built by a buddy)
Steering Shaft
Front Driveline
Drag link
Shocks
More just can't think of it.

What I know I need:

Brake lines
Shackles 4" or 5"
Frame plates W/IFS box mount (Low Range $95)
Oil pan conversion kit (Low Range $225)

This is where I am having trouble what else do I need?

I've got a buddy that will do almost any fab work I need. I just need to know what!
 
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Got the wheel spacers. I really don't need them because I'm using a waggy 44 that is the same width. But going to use them anyway.

Do I need fj rotors or just a luxury?

Shock hoops I can build when I get the ifs off
 
Thardy said:
I've got a buddy that will do almost any fab work I need. I just need to know what!
Click to expand...
^^^^
Part of your text got cut off so I thought I would repost it for ya...



Looks like you have a pretty good list there...

Ubolt flip kits would be nice
Tripple drill your front axle perches
Use extended wheelbase plates for your perches
Front spacers if running 35's (keeps your turning radius in check)


My only suggestion would be to try to accomodate hydro assist tapping on your box from the get go. Usually good planning will save you a few days of refab work in the steering issue. Also on that note I would push the steering box as far forward as you possibly can to save on additional needs to legnthen the wheel base. this may include pushing the spring hanger a inch or so forward of the stock location and possibly cutting a knotch out of the core support. This effort will help keep 35's or 37's out of the cab corners while doing legit articuation. When you do all that work at the same time this puts your upper shock mounts in the right location and also the shock tabs on the axle to accomodate the new location under the rig.

My .02 Cents
 
jinxspot said:
^^^^
Part of your text got cut off so I thought I would repost it for ya...



Looks like you have a pretty good list there...

Ubolt flip kits would be nice
Tripple drill your front axle perches
Use extended wheelbase plates for your perches
Front spacers if running 35's (keeps your turning radius in check)


My only suggestion would be to try to accomodate hydro assist tapping on your box from the get go. Usually good planning will save you a few days of refab work in the steering issue. Also on that note I would push the steering box as far forward as you possibly can to save on additional needs to legnthen the wheel base. this may include pushing the spring hanger a inch or so forward of the stock location and possibly cutting a knotch out of the core support. This effort will help keep 35's or 37's out of the cab corners while doing legit articuation. When you do all that work at the same time this puts your upper shock mounts in the right location and also the shock tabs on the axle to accomodate the new location under the rig.

My .02 Cents
Click to expand...

Perfect!! That is the kind of info I need! My plan is to move the front axle forward at least 2 inches if not 3. I no it will require fender trimming but I'm fine with that.
 
Plasma cutter.
Where do you live because I swear I saw you in Riverdale the other day. If you do live close I have a plasma cutter.
 
PLAS IS SUPPPPER nice for these mods!!!

Also, knowing the extended wheelbase calcs will let ya do the driveshafts once... kind of the same Idea on the driveshafts if your ever going to do a doubler (keep that in mind) you might be better off with a nice square front shaft to accomodate certain mods in the grand sceem of things... (I bought a tom woods shaft for $450 and 2" lift & 36" TSL's, THEN couple years later went with a longslip from six states $350ish for 5" lift and 37's AND NOW need another for my 1ton swap!!!) I should just have done a nice square drive line from the getgo since I have locking hubs & never do 4wheel drive over 50MPH.
 
What's the advantage of a square drive shaft?

Where is getgo and what kind of price? My dad usually uses a place in Logan. But I'm not sure there prices either.

Tacoman99, that wasn't me in Riverdale. I live in Santaquin but my runner has been down since Thanksgiving.
 
You also have to think about how far you push your axle forward. When pushing your axle forward you have to move the steering box forward so your arms don't crossover each other when turning. I suggest that you buy a IFS steering box relocation kit and cut and mount your box as far forward on the frame as possible. This will allow you to make major modifications down the road without having to keep changing your steering.
 
The thing with the steering is the 3rd gen didn't have a steering box. It is rack and pinion. I will either be using a shot box or a toyota box out of an 86 pickup. So I will have to Mount it anyhow.
 
I have a full steering column for sell out of an 87' truck. I was just letting you know you need the ifs box relocation kit or make some frame plates to mount it. If you need a hand let me know I have done a couple of these and its always nice to have an extra pair.
 
Square drive shafts have enough slip to make one driveline, and it will have enough extention to be used for single and dual case applications.
 
sorry man, "from the getgo" phrase was meant to be for a reference to the original design/build stages of your rig modification.


More on DS:
square driveshaft’s have enormous amounts of travel (essentially infinite to the limits of the material) in hopes to accommodate for: various wheelbase dimensions/different lifts/doubler’s or not/swap to one tons

Downfall is you (or a knowledgeable member) have to make your own as most places don't build them to be balanced, good news is square driveshaft’s actually spin pretty darn nice!!!

Square is also used because it is SUPER SUPER STRONG when bashing them on a rock too and cheaper to build than a production replica with thicker than normal tube! I think a good price is 70 to 150 depending on what you provide for yokes.

possibly call Curtis at Tattons Driveshafts.
Curtis Tatton
West Valley City,
Utah Phone 801 685 0056

Pirate FAQ is awesome for all this type stuff version 1.0 is worth the donation:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/775780-toyota-bible-faq-2-0-a.html

moving box fwd links to help ya see:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/587517-power-steering-box-install.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyo...eering-box-forward-far-possible-hack-job.html

Driveline - How to make a Square Shaft
/forum/toyota-truck-4runner/90517-square-driveshaft-even-after-doing-search.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...are+driveshaft
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...are+driveshaft

Yota Steering.jpg
good Yota steering.jpg
 
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jinxspot said:
^^^^
Part of your text got cut off so I thought I would repost it for ya...



Looks like you have a pretty good list there...

Ubolt flip kits would be nice
Tripple drill your front axle perches
Use extended wheelbase plates for your perches
Front spacers if running 35's (keeps your turning radius in check)


My only suggestion would be to try to accomodate hydro assist tapping on your box from the get go. Usually good planning will save you a few days of refab work in the steering issue. Also on that note I would push the steering box as far forward as you possibly can to save on additional needs to legnthen the wheel base. this may include pushing the spring hanger a inch or so forward of the stock location and possibly cutting a knotch out of the core support. This effort will help keep 35's or 37's out of the cab corners while doing legit articuation. When you do all that work at the same time this puts your upper shock mounts in the right location and also the shock tabs on the axle to accomodate the new location under the rig.

My .02 Cents
Click to expand...


x2 on all of this. Excellent advice, especially the triple drilled perches and hangers.
 
I'm not sure which steering box you'll be using with the d44, but i think the front frame reinforcement plates and steering box mount from TG are a great way to go. THey also have steering shaft modifications and all that. The tacoma setup should fit just fine. Shoot a PM to Addicted OFfroad, he just did a SAS an a 4runner using the TG Taco kit.
 
also, I recommend reading through the Trail Gear Tacoma SAS build. It'll help you envision a lot of everything that needs to be done. Addicted OFfroad's recent 4runner sas using the TG Taco kit is helpful too. Read each step until you understand why they did each part they did.

a sas on a 3rd gen is WAY different from a SAS on a 1st or 2nd gen. On the front end, I'm thinking just about everything is identical to a tacoma sas.

Do you have the t100 oil pan?
 
sixstringsteve said:
also, I recommend reading through the Trail Gear Tacoma SAS build. It'll help you envision a lot of everything that needs to be done. Addicted OFfroad's recent 4runner sas using the TG Taco kit is helpful too. Read each step until you understand why they did each part they did.

a sas on a 3rd gen is WAY different from a SAS on a 1st or 2nd gen. On the front end, I'm thinking just about everything is identical to a tacoma sas.

Do you have the t100 oil pan?
Click to expand...

I have read a bunch of Tacoma builds but don't know if I've seen the trail gear one. I've browsed Addicteds build. I will read more in depth.

I know I need the oil pan conversion and it is on the list. Low Range sales a kit I will probably get that.
 
Thardy said:
Got the wheel spacers. I really don't need them because I'm using a waggy 44 that is the same width. But going to use them anyway.

Do I need fj rotors or just a luxury?

Shock hoops I can build when I get the ifs off
Click to expand...

sorry i missed the part on the axle your using, i thought it would be toyota
 
also, what are you planning to do on the rear? leaf as well? if you dont move your axle too far forward you can acutally use your stock front driveline. i think i moved mine forward 3 inches and even with the suspension fully drooped it doesnt fall out.
 
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