96 Runner SAS ???

The drive line is something that will come very last. If the stock one fits awesome, but won't know till its ready to mount. If not I've got extra parts to from an 86 pick up to build a square one. As far as the rear I am going to do the front then see what kind of stance I get. Them I will decide on the rear. Of It sits low I will go to leafs as well. If it's close I will stay with the stock at up and reinforce the links.
 
I would highly recommend cutting and turning the knuckles if you don't plan on running dual cases immediately. Otherwise, you will go through a ton of u-joints at the pinion. The waggie axle has a really crappy pinion angle up front. Set the knuckles at 6* of caster when you set it up. Then rotate the pinion up and point it directly at the Tcase.

IMHO, A D44 is not an upgrade over a Toyota based axle and will still cost you more to build up in the long run than a Diamond axle would. Even if the D44 is free. And, the Diamond would be stronger. But, to each their own.

If you stick with the D44, then well, 5.29s don't exist for it. Its either 4.88s or 5.38s. If you run 5.29s in the rear you will be mismatched up front. It will work, but I would NEVER run it on pavement unless it was really wet or icy out.

I would also plan on frenching the shackle through the frame if possible up front. It will help lower the ride height as these rigs on leaf springs are TALL.

Anyway, good luck with the build!
 
Thardy said:
The drive line is something that will come very last. If the stock one fits awesome, but won't know till its ready to mount. If not I've got extra parts to from an 86 pick up to build a square one. As far as the rear I am going to do the front then see what kind of stance I get. Them I will decide on the rear. Of It sits low I will go to leafs as well. If it's close I will stay with the stock at up and reinforce the links.
Click to expand...

You will not be able to stay with the rear setup. It will have a TON of oversteer and it just will not work well at all. Just plan on going leafs or move the gas tank behind the axle and 4-link it.
This thread will give you some ideas:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyota-tacoma/803827-addicted-offroad-project-intervention.html
 
AddictedOffroad said:
I would highly recommend cutting and turning the knuckles if you don't plan on running dual cases immediately. Otherwise, you will go through a ton of u-joints at the pinion. The waggie axle has a really crappy pinion angle up front. Set the knuckles at 6* of caster when you set it up. Then rotate the pinion up and point it directly at the Tcase.

IMHO, A D44 is not an upgrade over a Toyota based axle and will still cost you more to build up in the long run than a Diamond axle would. Even if the D44 is free. And, the Diamond would be stronger. But, to each their own.

If you stick with the D44, then well, 5.29s don't exist for it. Its either 4.88s or 5.38s. If you run 5.29s in the rear you will be mismatched up front. It will work, but I would NEVER run it on pavement unless it was really wet or icy out.

I would also plan on frenching the shackle through the frame if possible up front. It will help lower the ride height as these rigs on leaf springs are TALL.

Anyway, good luck with the build!
Click to expand...

I am going to use the dana44. I'm not really looking for an upgrade to the toy axle. We have always had good luck with the 44 as well as the toy, but as you no the toy is the wrong drop the dana is not. I have read a buch of threads of guys running the 5.29/5.38 combo. That is my plan.

Any more info on frenching the shackle? My concern is the spring perches on the 44 are 31.5" center hole to center hole. The frame on my runner is 31.5" outside to outside.

Any advise on this would be great. I would love to keep it as low as possible.
 
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/524538-parking-brake-cable-extension.html

If you go to gear-driven cases, you can use a t-case ebrake. I liked mine that I had from Sky Manufacturing.

I wonder if an ebrake cable from a tacoma would work. The tacoma's ebrake lever is mounted to the right of the steering wheel, vs yours which is on the center console. I wonder if the end connections are similar. If they are, you might be able to get away with using a regular cab tacoma ebrake cable.
 
Last edited:
Thardy said:
I am going to use the dana44. I'm not really looking for an upgrade to the toy axle. We have always had good luck with the 44 as well as the toy, but as you no the toy is the wrong drop the dana is not. I have read a buch of threads of guys running the 5.29/5.38 combo. That is my plan.

Any more info on frenching the shackle? My concern is the spring perches on the 44 are 31.5" center hole to center hole. The frame on my runner is 31.5" outside to outside.

Any advise on this would be great. I would love to keep it as low as possible.
Click to expand...

Not if go duals. You can go to pass drop cheaper with just two donor cases and an adapter.

Just saying that D44 requires a hell of a lot more work to get it under the rig.
 
i would agree with addicted. i did a d44. now i am swapping in a fj80 axle. much easier to work with duals. its alot of money to do duals drivers drop
 
Thanks for the input guys.

Quick question though. I don't see how it is any easier or cheaper to go to a passenger drop? Here are my calculations on why I think its cheaper to use my current set up then dual my case down the road.

Estimate using Dana 44
Axle $0 already have one from a previous project
5.38 gears $150 (already purchased)
Adapters $800 (tranny to crawlbox, crawlbox to original case, and 23 spline input shaft)
Crawlbow $0 already have an 88 topshift t-case
Driveline work $? same with either set up though
Work to put it in.

Estimate using FJ80 axle
Axle $800-$1000? Really don't know they aren't super common.
5.29 gears $150
Adapters $1050 (tranny to front case, front case to back case, 23 spline input shaft)
Case #1 $0 I already have one
Case #2 $75-$150 depending on finding one
Driveline
Work to put it in.

Maybe i'm missing something but it seems cheaper to use what I have. I'm not worried about the strength of the 44 we've used them for years on our other rigs. I can't imagine a 4runner on 35's any harder on a 44 than a waggy on 39s with a 360 V8.

I know you guys have done this more than me and are trying to help. Right now my main goal is to have a capable rig for the trails I do (hells revenge, triple threat, Snakes, AF canyon and trail similar to those) for as cheap as possible. That is why I am going to use what I have. Yes I want to go with a crawlbox but that's a ways down the road.

Again thanks for the input and please keep it coming.
 
You should be able to pick up a open-diff FZJ80 axle for $250-300, IMO. If you can find one with the factory e-locker, then your $800 price range is probably close, if not a little high.
 
I can look into it. I just have seen a lot of builds using the 44 and a lot of people are happy with it. Where I already have a lot of the parts to do it and it was free I still think that is the way I will go. Then down the road if I'm unhappy with it you can all point your fingers and laugh. With the money I have into what I already have and the money I would have to spend too go the other way there is really no way I can do it. With the price of adapters alone. I can use what I have and save money for the adapters and build the duals a couple years down the road. With the gearing in the stock t case and in the diffs I will be fine for what I do now. If down the road I want to get more hardcore maybe I'll go tons and low geared duals. I really think the most Hardcore action this thing will see fit along time is trails like I stated before.
 
Thardy said:
Thanks for the input guys.

Quick question though. I don't see how it is any easier or cheaper to go to a passenger drop? Here are my calculations on why I think its cheaper to use my current set up then dual my case down the road.

Estimate using Dana 44
Axle $0 already have one from a previous project
5.38 gears $150 (already purchased)
Adapters $800 (tranny to crawlbox, crawlbox to original case, and 23 spline input shaft)
Crawlbow $0 already have an 88 topshift t-case
Driveline work $? same with either set up though
Work to put it in.
Highsteer $750-950 (with arms)
Flat top knuckles drilled/tapped $100
Locker is more expensive
Cromoly shafts & CTMs $1250

Estimate using FJ80 axle
Trail-Gear Rock Assault housing Tacoma width $699 Comes with Dirty 30 shaft(pass drop)
5.29 gears $150
Locker is cheaper
Adapter $299 http://www.trail-gear.com/tacoma-transfer-case-adapter-kit
23 spline input shaft $179 http://www.trail-gear.com/23-spline-input-gear
Highsteer $325
Case #1 $0 I already have one
Dirty 30 shafts $450
Case #2 $75-$150 depending on finding one
Driveline
Work to put it in.


Maybe i'm missing something but it seems cheaper to use what I have. I'm not worried about the strength of the 44 we've used them for years on our other rigs. I can't imagine a 4runner on 35's any harder on a 44 than a waggy on 39s with a 360 V8.

I know you guys have done this more than me and are trying to help. Right now my main goal is to have a capable rig for the trails I do (hells revenge, triple threat, Snakes, AF canyon and trail similar to those) for as cheap as possible. That is why I am going to use what I have. Yes I want to go with a crawlbox but that's a ways down the road.

Again thanks for the input and please keep it coming.
Click to expand...

Yes, you missed a lot. I added it in red.

Look, I am not trying to tell you to ditch the D44. But, when you compare the two, its more expensive to build the D44. Running stock shaft will hold up for a little while in the D44, but for how long? Cromoly shafts are going to be needed eventually. Which is twice the cost of the Toyota shafts.

And, you can get a driver drop Rock Assault housing to use with your stock case too.

IMHO building a D44 is just polishing the turd. Its not an upgrade. Plenty of guys run the D44 because they drank the water thinking it was going to be cheap. Unfortunately, when you compare the two and list the cost, the Toyota axle ends up being cheaper in the end. and stronger.

I know you're wanting to start this now. But, if you take some time to gather more parts to do it right the first time, you will be happier in the end. I build a TON of these rigs. I don't even bother with a D44 anymore because its easy to see that its more expensive for the customer to build.

In all honesty, the Trail-Gear kit "C" is a smoking deal for what you get. Its an out of the box crawler package. Is it expensive to save all of that up at once? Yes, but in the end you get a complete package that is designed to work together. And, if you need a replacement part, you have one place to call to get it. Their package comes with a fully locked ARB, high pinion 3rd, with gears, in a custom housing, and cromoly axle shafts for $4100. It also includes everything else needed for the swap except manual locking hubs, spindles, and hub assemblies. Those parts are cheap though. You even get all of your steering, springs, brakelines, crossmember and brackets, frenched shackle hangers, oil pan, shocks, etc. You cannot beat what you get. In fact, I plan to build a 3rd gen I just picked up with the same setup. Its just too cheap to ignore what you get. I mean an ARB with compressor by itself is $1100 alone

Ask anyone that has SAS'd one of these on the "Cheap". They spend a lot more than they think they do. Even building all the brackets themselves. What is your time worth?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top