Another Italian followed me home...

glockman said:
Can you turn it over with the lever by hand? I can crank my 300 that way. That should tell you if something is really bound up in the bottom.
Also, I have a press and a bearing puller. Bring that stem over.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
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Yes I can. With the plug out it all rotated smooth and easy. With the plug in I can move it by hand, but I’m too big of a puss to go top to bottom.

I appreciate the offer for the puller and press. I’ve already ordered a new bearing and can press it on once it arrives. Hopefully I can finish up tomorrow
 
The starter on my 300 hasn't worked at all since I put the new engine in. But it would only crank it 80% of the time before
 
I've used D&K motorcycle and Pacific Pipe Repair to fix pipes before> both have done a good job with the slight nod to PPR because if you bend a pipe crazy the have a jig for almost every pipe and they can bend them back to original shape.

But.... I think if you're going whole hog... you should just get a RR pipe so it gets some better top end.
 
Gravy said:
I've used D&K motorcycle and Pacific Pipe Repair to fix pipes before> both have done a good job with the slight nod to PPR because if you bend a pipe crazy the have a jig for almost every pipe and they can bend them back to original shape.

But.... I think if you're going whole hog... you should just get a RR pipe so it gets some better top end.
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Excellent input, thanks. I think I will send that stick pipe in to get straightened out. What was the turn around time?

I fully planned to get a big boy pipe, but further reading has me apprehensive. First off I’ll be the first to admit that I went overboard on the Honda. I don’t want another bike that is temperamental and hard to keep happy.

Initially I wanted a FMF Gnarly because of their heavy gauge metal and added low end grunt. I’ve read an equal amount of reports good and bad on these for the Xtrainer though. The bad reports say that jetting gets finicky unless you switch to the RR ECU as well. Some people even say that the added torque constantly makes the tire break loose (like that could be bad ha ha).

Another pipe I’ve been looking into is made by Scalvini. I really want to like this pipe because it’s tucked way up high like a 4-stroke pipe. The power gain seems to be more broad and my bike could use a bit more top end pep. Downside to these is that there isn’t much feedback on the internet for the Xtrainer. I’m also curious how thin the metal cones would be.


What do you think of this power curve??
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Also I imagine I'm perhaps one of the few people you know that's ridden a 300 RR. I wouldn't exactly say it was "explosive" or "pipey" at all, it was pretty much the smoothest 2t I've ever ridden besides yours.
I'll be honest my only gripe about the motor on your bike is the lack of top. It doesn't slowly wind out, it like falls dead all at once.

My understanding is the small middle resonance chamber and abrupt end to it is to blame.
I don't know all the theory behind it but just as an observation: I've noticed on all these bikes I've had that the fatter (diameter) the middle is: the more the have in the middle and the same goes for the duration: where the taper begins and ends seems to have a big impact on when the power starts and signs off.

I could see how if the RR ecu has more aggressive ignition timing or a higher rev limit that could change thinges too.

The Derek I know never says no to more power!
 
I got the bike completely assembled!!

I couldn’t get the plug to spark so I spent the rest of my night chasing down that rabbit hole.

-I tested the plug
-tested continuity of the plug wire
-pulled apart the killswitch and showed continuity between wires. I cut one off the switch, but they still show continuity. How is this possible?? I’m still troubleshooting
 
I spent several hours tonight trouble shooting this no spark problem. Resistance at the pickup and stator were both on the money. Resistance at the coil is off though.

Help me understand wiring 101. Shouldn’t the spade connector be receiving voltage? Right now, It’s grounded when the coil lugs are bolted down.
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My coil voltage is actually in spec. My multimeter just wasn’t giving me good info!

I spent another couple hours tracking this down, and I learned a few things.

Fact 1- there is AC voltage coming out of the stator

Fact 2- the regulator/rectifier is working

Fact 3- continuity FROM the CDI to coil is good on supply and ground

Fact 4- my harness is a mix of Xtrainer and 300rr.

Fact 5- my Italian is not improving despite all the reading I’ve been doing.

Fact 6- there is a shit ton of wires on that bike!!!!



The big issue in my mind now is that the coil terminal grounds out when bolted down. I can’t imagine a world where that’s ok. I’m hoping someone will verify that for me or explain another solution
 
Tonkaman said:
Eff it.



















Anybody got a flamethrower handy????
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Sorry dude. I wish I was more help :(

However, I will remove it from your house, free of charge.


I imagine that a technician could figure it out pretty quick. It would probably only cost a few hours of time $150-200 ish.
 
1.) Yes that is ok. I checked on the 01 yz125 and 02 kx250

2.) that multimeter is garbage. Throw it away. Seriously false readings poor contacts. Garbage.

3.) If you want, I can come over, if nothing else just to put a second set of eyes on it. Just text me anytime.

4.) can you email me the wiring diagram? I'd be happy to take a look. pm with my email on it's way.
 
Gravy said:
1.) Yes that is ok. I checked on the 01 yz125 and 02 kx250

2.) that multimeter is garbage. Throw it away. Seriously false readings poor contacts. Garbage.

3.) If you want, I can come over, if nothing else just to put a second set of eyes on it. Just text me anytime.

4.) can you email me the wiring diagram? I'd be happy to take a look. pm with my email on it's way.
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Thanks dude!

Honestly I could REALLY use your help. I’m at my wits end, but I know it must be simple.

I’ll shoot you the diagram
 
Stratton cane over to share is wealth of motorcycle knowledge. He helped a ton with clarifying the confusion that is Italian translated diagrams. We started from the beginning and verified everything that I had already tested. We didn’t manage to fix it, but it was nice to be validated in my confusion.

Our conclusion is that there must be a short along the power supply to the CDI. We figure that because the only pin on the CDI that receives power from the regulator, also has continuity with the ground wire...

Tomorrow I’ll carefully pull the whole harness out, check for loose connectors, then cut away sheathing and check for damaged wire.
 
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