Anybody else see something wrong here?

[redrock]

Originally posted by supergper
well there are so many vehicles its hard to say what specifically...whats it going into and what is your desired width??? something I took into consideration when I chose my 14 bolt was look at the vehicle and think about if it could have lived a hard life...for example a 14 bolt out of a C&C tow truck has had a lot harder life(always loaded to its max...etc)then my 14 bolt that came out of a Suburban...another thing to consider is bolt pattern and are you doing the front too...

yeah what i am going to do is a SOA everyone here said do it right. do the high steer. so i want something that i still can drive on the roads but i want it to so i can do anything i want without worries, if you know what i mean. how far is a full axle stick you out from fenders? or are the surburban a small width i am looking for ideas what to look for

 

[Hickey]

Waggoneer axles. you will need the extended flares, but they are reall close to stock width.

 

[redrock]

i seen one of them in the junk yard today to sitting next to the scout

 

[Hickey]

waggy's came with either a AMC 20, offset 44, or centered 44 in the rear. the latter is the most desirable for your application.

 

[Caleb]

If its going in a Wrangler or CJ then waggoneer axles are great they are pretty close to stock...stock is around 60 and waggy axles are aound 60-63 depending...with waggy axles you get D44 front and depending on the year D44 rear...they can be had for pretty cheap(about $300-$500) a set and will almost bolt right into a wrangler(almost is the key word) if you do front and rear then you dont need to worry about bolt pattern but if you only do rear then you will need new rims for the back...if you want to keep stock bolt pattern and you have a wrangler then you either have to get a custom axle or a Cherokee comanche D44...on the waggy axles if you have a wrangler and want to keep the stock t-case then you will need to find one out of a 80+ model and avoid 83-84 because they usually had the vaccum disco in the front...

the suburban or any fullsize are full width(67" wide) and will stick out a lot if you go this route...youwill deffinitely need extended flares with them if you want to keep the coppers away

 

[redrock]

Originally posted by supergper
If its going in a Wrangler or CJ then waggoneer axles are great they are pretty close to stock...stock is around 60 and waggy axles are aound 60-63 depending...with waggy axles you get D44 front and depending on the year D44 rear...they can be had for pretty cheap(about $300-$500) a set and will almost bolt right into a wrangler(almost is the key word) if you do front and rear then you dont need to worry about bolt pattern but if you only do rear then you will need new rims for the back...if you want to keep stock bolt pattern and you have a wrangler then you either have to get a custom axle or a Cherokee comanche D44...on the waggy axles if you have a wrangler and want to keep the stock t-case then you will need to find one out of a 80+ model and avoid 83-84 because they usually had the vaccum disco in the front...

the suburban or any fullsize are full width(67" wide) and will stick out a lot if you go this route...youwill deffinitely need extended flares with them if you want to keep the coppers away

thats cool i will keep that in mind......you know i have been a memeber of RME for just over a month and learned more in a month then in five years owning my jeep

 

[BlackSheep]

If you're looking for waggy axles, supergper has it right.

I think you're driving a YJ.????

Look for the rear axle from an '87 (some '86s had them too) or newer Grand Waggy. This is a D44 with a centered pumpkin. I got mine from an '87. It looks like it might be a hair narrower than my TJ, but not enough to worry about. The brakes are bigger than my TJ but still drum.

The front from any '80-91 (or whenever they stopped making the Grand Waggy) is driver side drop. As Super said, stay away from the '83 and '84.

I found both axles on the FSJ site (www.ifsja.org). They are 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern, but since I'll be changing them both, it won't matter.

Something else to think about.... The scout rear D44 is a little bit narrower than the stock YJ/TJ, but there is a full floater/disk brake setup available for it (I think Warn sells a kit for this conversion). I have not found a full floater setup for the waggy axles yet.

I'm not sure anyone makes them for the waggy, so I may end up cutting the ends off the TJ housing and welding them onto the Waggy housing so I can get a full floater setup. This may cause me trouble with bolt patterns, but I really want the full floating axles.

 

[harkinoff]

Originally posted by supergper



That bites...about a year ago I got my 14 bolt from you pull it for $100 or so...





I paid 112.00 out the door for my 14 bolt at pick in pull about 2 years ago, the other day I was in going to pull a 3/4 hd 44 with flat tops, they want 250.00 plus tax now at pick in pull.. still a good price but they about doubled their prices, that scout at pick in pull has a drum 30 front

 

[redrock]

Originally posted by BlackSheep
If you're looking for waggy axles, supergper has it right.

I think you're driving a YJ.????

Look for the rear axle from an '87 (some '86s had them too) or newer Grand Waggy. This is a D44 with a centered pumpkin. I got mine from an '87. It looks like it might be a hair narrower than my TJ, but not enough to worry about. The brakes are bigger than my TJ but still drum.

The front from any '80-91 (or whenever they stopped making the Grand Waggy) is driver side drop. As Super said, stay away from the '83 and '84.

I found both axles on the FSJ site (www.ifsja.org). They are 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern, but since I'll be changing them both, it won't matter.

Something else to think about.... The scout rear D44 is a little bit narrower than the stock YJ/TJ, but there is a full floater/disk brake setup available for it (I think Warn sells a kit for this conversion). I have not found a full floater setup for the waggy axles yet.

I'm not sure anyone makes them for the waggy, so I may end up cutting the ends off the TJ housing and welding them onto the Waggy housing so I can get a full floater setup. This may cause me trouble with bolt patterns, but I really want the full floating axles.

when pulling the frontend do i need to take all the steering parts to? or will the steering on my yj be ok

 

[BlackSheep]

Originally posted by redrock
when pulling the frontend do i need to take all the steering parts to? or will the steering on my yj be ok

Good question. When I got the front end, I got everything the except the pitman arm that probably wouldn't work on mine anyway. The linkage that the waggy has is different, so I think it would be in your best interest to get as much of it as possible. If you don't use it, you haven't really lost anything.

Keep looking around, I got my front axle complete with disks and calipers for $75 off of the FSJ board. I had to pick it up near Logan, and I got the rear for $150 from a guy in SLC.

 

[redrock]

Originally posted by BlackSheep


Good question. When I got the front end, I got everything the except the pitman arm that probably wouldn't work on mine anyway. The linkage that the waggy has is different, so I think it would be in your best interest to get as much of it as possible. If you don't use it, you haven't really lost anything.

Keep looking around, I got my front axle complete with disks and calipers for $75 off of the FSJ board. I had to pick it up near Logan, and I got the rear for $150 from a guy in SLC.

hey thanks for the info

 

[Fuller]

a few months a go there was a explorer in pick and pull that had burned up completely and it had the 8.8 with disks under it, one of the disks was broken in half and the truck was burnt up so bad it was hard to tell it was an explorer

 

[Caleb]

Originally posted by limegrnxj
a few months a go there was a explorer in pick and pull that had burned up completely and it had the 8.8 with disks under it, one of the disks was broken in half and the truck was burnt up so bad it was hard to tell it was an explorer

which also meant that the axle had prolly been put through some very intense heat and prolly fatigued the metal plus prolly tweaked it so you prolly wouldn;t be able to setup gear properlly...FWIW