ARB Locker Installers
- Thread starter kkemp
- Start date
piecesnparts
Registered User
- Location
- Kaysville
The real question you should ask is who not to go with... I have heard my share of horror stories..
- Location
- Sandy, Ut
What axles?
I thought I'd also mention that the front locker is a used RD30 that I've repaired with a new housing among other things. The rear locker (dana 44) is the old style but never even been out of the box. FWIW, I'm only running 31 inch tires and plan to for a while. If I happen to go bigger, I will probably replace the front axle with a Dana 44 too.
xjspider
Registered User
- Location
- Holladay UT
Greg's Texaco on 2809 South 2300 East. #485-8887. He is the best, only one i would ever trust setting up my gears. He is a perfectionist! Give him a call.
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
Kevin at six states in Orem....no beating 30+ years of gear experience....He is the one that taught me
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I'll do it, and I'll also modify the housing so it's done right so you won't blow your axle seals, etc.. Not saying I'm the only one that does this, or it's my little trick, but a lot of people don't and it will cause problems down the road.kkemp said:
waynehartwig said:
What do you mean by modifying the housing so its done right? I have set up many ARBs and I just follow the instructions.
Personally I would spend a weekend doing it yourself if you have the time and patience. Get your shop manual that will tell you what shims to add or take out to increase/decrease pinion depth, increase/decrease backlash, etc, or I am sure there are plenty of good write ups out there on the internet. Just use marking compound and see how the teeth are meshing together (shop manuals usually give good pictures on this. I personally like the diagrams in my 96 ZJ manual better than in my 93 YJ/XJ manual. Correct meshing patterns are essentailly the same for these similar axles anyhow). Time consuming to keep putting the carrier in and out of the housing to get the shims right, but cheaper and then you will have the benefit of saying you did it yourself. Plus, when something goes wrong on the trail (and one day it inevitably will) you will have an idea of how to fix it. Patience is essential for a gear install though.
1993yj said:
I've thought about doing it myself especially since the dana 44 axle hasn't been installed on the Jeep yet. Problem is I don't have the bearing pullers and they are too expensive to buy for just a one time thing. At least the ones I've seen are from 400 to 1200 dollars. I do have access to a press. Also, the folks at ARB say the dana 30 locker needs lots of preload and will require a spreader to get it. They are talking .020 inch preload. From what I understand .004 is normal.
BTW, I think the modification waynehartwig is refering to is drilling some holes near the carrier bearings to improve the oil flow. I don't remember the details. Anyway ARB recommends this. They have a pdf on their website about it. BTW, there is a good write up on Pirate 4x4 about doing the R&P. With that and some other articles I've found I do have enough info, I just don't have the tools.
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I dont have the tools either. I take my carrier to Parts Plus and have them pull the old bearings and press the new ones. There have even been times I have had to get the bearings off myself by prying with a screwdriver or whatever is available at the moment, and then pressing the new bearing with a hammer and a large socket. Not my reccomended way to do it. Usually I get charged about $20 for the pulls and press. As for spreader, last weekend is the first time that I have used one. I am running the D30 up front still as well, but the newer style of ARB, which I hear needs preload still, but not as necessary to keep the carrier from coming apart at the seam. My brother has that problem on his Cherokee. My dad actually made a spreader himself that worked great. As for preload, I dont have the tool to measure it, I just feel by hand when the carrier is in and I try to tell by turning the pinion. At first, I had so much preload that I couldnt even turn the yoke by hand, whcih I figured meant I had too much preload in, so I took a shim out.
I need to check out that file on ARBs website while my front end is still open.
I need to check out that file on ARBs website while my front end is still open.
Milner
formerly "rckcrlr"
- Location
- Hiding behind a camera
kkemp said:
Just a piece of trivia....I do believe Kevin is responsible for the first ARB install in Utah....Way back when.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I am reffering to the drains.
Also the front axle typically has a bead of silicone to keep oil out of the seal area. Doing so also causes the ARB o rings to fail from lack of lubrication/cooling. Also the stuff that does get in, doesn't get out, so a pile of sludge will form and take out the o rings. So that needs to be removed to improve flow....
The reccomended increased preload is a band aid. There was a thread a little while back where others were talking about this.
If you want to do it yourself, bring the beer and pizza and you can use my tools. This would be the best bet right now anyway. I'm really busy with two 8.8 swaps, two D44's and several lift kits to do.
Also the front axle typically has a bead of silicone to keep oil out of the seal area. Doing so also causes the ARB o rings to fail from lack of lubrication/cooling. Also the stuff that does get in, doesn't get out, so a pile of sludge will form and take out the o rings. So that needs to be removed to improve flow....
The reccomended increased preload is a band aid. There was a thread a little while back where others were talking about this.
If you want to do it yourself, bring the beer and pizza and you can use my tools. This would be the best bet right now anyway. I'm really busy with two 8.8 swaps, two D44's and several lift kits to do.
rckcrlr said:Kevin at six states in Orem....no beating 30+ years of gear experience....He is the one that taught me
I've had good luck with the Six States in Orem. I've had driveline/SYE work done and they did a great job. Price was very reasonable. Kevin replaced a broken U-joint for me today. I had the axle pulled and brought it to him. He whipped it out in 5-10 mins.
waynehartwig
www.jeeperman.com
- Location
- Mead, WA
I take a die grinder to the bottom of the axle tube and cut a 1/4" wide gap. I don't make it as big as the top one, so that some oil will pool up and feed the axle bearings and etc. If you do your rear first, you will see just where the drain should be and then you'll be able to duplicate it on all of your stuff. ....The rear usually has one lower and two upper drains. Worst case you will only have the two upper drains. D44's and F8.8's are the worst....1993yj said:
tagaustatoppen
1997 TJ
- Location
- Heber, Utah
Hey can someone give me a little more infor about six states maybe a phone number or an address?
xjspider
Registered User
- Location
- Holladay UT
Six States Distributors, Inc. - Orem
841 N. Industrial Park Drive
Orem, UT 84057
Phone: (801) 224-1155 (local)
(800) 574-1155
841 N. Industrial Park Drive
Orem, UT 84057
Phone: (801) 224-1155 (local)
(800) 574-1155