ARB problems

[Toad]

My arb in the back of my jeep will not stay engaged. We were wheeling this weekend and it was making some pretty loud popping sounds. I just removed the diff cover to see if anything was obvious. Nothing. It is no longer making the popping sounds(which it quit before I removed the diff cover).Fluid was good and clean. The compressor does not cycle more than normal. When I turn I can tell it is engaged then the next turn it is not engaged. Any ideas?

 

[RockMonkey]

Subscribed.

 

[Toad]

It is a dana 44 out of a scout.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Subscribed.

You help with the install

 

[TEAM FRED]

Are you running a pressure regulator with this setup?
I've seen this with lack of pressure before

 

[cruiseroutfit]

What compressor?

 

[Max Power]

It sounds like low pressure to me.

 

[Toad]

I had not thought about low pressure. No pressure regulator. It is an arb compressor. They dont show it on their website anymore.

 

[Toad]

I just installed a pressure gauge into the solonoid on the compressor. Turned the compressor on and it shut of like normal. Activated the rear arb switch and I had 100 psi at the solonoid. I think the pressure shut of switch is 100 psi on the compressor. I will go remove the line at the diff and blow it out with air.

 

[Toad]

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=cDINTurEJsbZiALd5Pn8DQ&ved=0CF8Q8wIwAw#

 

[Toad]

Mine looks like that

 

[cruiseroutfit]

That is an RDCKA, circa ~15 years ago until ~4 years ago, now replaced by much higher output units. They are a great compressor, if your getting 100 psi out of it your problem is elsewhere. Test your pressure at the bulkhead of your locker.

 

[Toad]

I just just removed the air line to the diff. I got a blower nozzle from my shop compressor and blew out the hose. I blew out a bit of gear oil. Is that normal? By bulkhead do you mean were the rubber hose attaches at the diff?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

If it has a rubber hose its likely got an aftermarket setup as the standard ARB system is the blue plastic line all the way to the bulkhead (the fittings on the diff). If your getting some oil in the lines it is possible your o-rings have some issues and when that oil gets in the line it won't allow proper activation. This might help: http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/tech_ARB_troubleshoot.html

 

[Toad]

Thanks i will do some more checking tommorow and post my results

 

[Toad]

Pulled the line at the diff. I blew gear oil out of the line again. Air pressure to the diff is good. I am thinking that some thing internal on the diff is the problem at this point. Just out of curiosity Kurt do you only work and yotas? What would you charge me to fix this problem? I would probably do it myself but i inderstand that the majority of problems are install problems and i do want to screw it up.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Nothing I would be interested in, one of the major reasons I love to do the Toyota diffs (besides being a Toyota parts outlet) is that they are drop out 3rds so I can build (and by "I", I am referring to Ilean ) and then bench test them, etc all before re-assembling in the axle. Dana and other axles require all the work to be done on the rig of which I don't have the time, space and tools, spreaders, etc. So I stick with Toyotas If you need parts for them I likely have the o-rings and such here. LMK

 

[Toad]

Thanks for the help. I just talked to a buddy that has played around with them more than I have. We are going to tear into it next week. I have a buddy just finishing up a fj-40 resto. He needs gears and lockers for it. I am going to point him your way. Thanks again.

 

[Toad]

Tore the axle down today. Replaced a worn out "clutch gear". Works great again. Unfortunatly I did find some twisted splines in th right axle shaft. Now I need to find a Scout 800 that I can snag a shaft from.