James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
yes, they are wide.OCNORB said:
your still keeping your new frame 27.5" center to center?
well at least the passenger side is the smaller side of the diff, so you maybe alright.
Are tons worth puttin in a SWB jeep, or are they too big?
- Thread starter OCNORB
- Start date
your still keeping your new frame 27.5" center to center?
well at least the passenger side is the smaller side of the diff, so you maybe alright.
James K said:yes, they are wide.
your still keeping your new frame 27.5" center to center?
well at least the passenger side is the smaller side of the diff, so you maybe alright.
Yeah, the new frame is 27.5". I didn't expect to run into a set of 1-ton axles when I was planning it. I probably would have outboarded the rears at least. That is what is causing the quandry, but if I can shave it and narrow it without running custom axles in the rear it should be worth it.
The front - that could be another problem. Because I am using the new frame I have the freedom to move the motor as far left as possible to keep the front driveshaft happy. This will also help with the rear.
James K
NO, I'm always like this
- Location
- Taylorsville, Ut
The front you will probably have to narrow both sides.OCNORB said:
so info on when I narrowed mine..................http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=14474&highlight=dana
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Jay5.9L said:
In my mind, anything over 36" tires, you need some bigger joints in the front or a significant investment in CTM/alloy axles. Take your pick........and choose where you want to spend your money (and I've seen broken D44 alloy shafts on 35" tires--granted, they were being 'used'
).mbryson said:In my mind, anything over 36" tires, you need some bigger joints in the front or a significant investment in CTM/alloy axles. Take your pick........and choose where you want to spend your money (and I've seen broken D44 alloy shafts on 35" tires--granted, they were being 'used'
I have heard that before. That being said what will work out best in the long run considering pain in the ass and $$>... built D44 with alloy shafts, etc or a D60?
Also I'm wondering if I want to try and keep the stock 5 on 5.5 lug pattern or scrap them for the 8 lug soI don't have to convert anything.
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Jay5.9L said:
This is still sorta related to the thread.... (I guess)....but we've definitely quit talking about OCNORB's Willy.
Front axle
D44...
total estimates....
CTM $300
Alloy $500-600
locker $500
gears and install kit $300
housing $150
brakes and rebuild $250-300?
high steer arm $100
Total $2050-2250
D60
housing $800-1200 (but Great Scott has a whole dually he's parting that he'd make you a deal on)
locker $600
gears and install kit (unless you can live with the 4.56 that could be there) $free-350
brakes and rebuild $250-350
high steer arm $100
Total $1550-2350
I'm probably off a little on prices, but not a lot. If you've already got some $$$ in your D44, buy some shafts and joints and run it. If you're starting from scratch, buy a front 60 and don't worry about it (and you can STILL buy alloy shafts and CTMs for the 60 if you start busting that up).
Jay5.9L said:I have D30 in front so it willbe from scratch. I'll make a new thread whenI get the balls.... I mean moneyfor the upgrade.
Sorry about the hijack OCNORB
It's all good.
The thing about doing the 60 is I am gettin it for very little $$$. So it just makes sense even if I do need custom front shafts. I'd rather pay once for custom D60 fronts and have piece of mind than pay for D44 alloys/CTM's and still wonder.
Jay5.9L- Jsut go eight lug and forget about it. I have done some 5-lug conversions and it just isn't worth the work. (I put 14 bolt spindles on D60 and turned down the hubs on my Dad's YJ)
pumpkinbronc
ONETONPUMPKIN
- Location
- Mesquite, Nv
just leave it wide i'll make tracks for ya
