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Axle housings, what's stronger?

Greg

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
I'm curious about front axle housing strength for 2 different axles. Choices are-

-Waggy Dana 44

-Toyota 8" Mini-truck

Just wondering what folks think concerning which housing is beefier for rockcrawling and high-speed desert bashing under a light buggy. Obviously either one could be braced, just trying to figure out if there's an advantage to be had with one vs. the other as-is. Thoughts?

Don't want to hear about Dana 60's... :cody:
 
SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
They are both proven axles and given the right amount of time and money they are comparable to the D60 without the weight and clearance penalty of the enormous pumpkin.

If both axles were built equally I think they would be equally as good--profound right?

I know which axle I would build, the Toyota 8".

Here is my parts list:
-Upper housing brace
-Knuckle gussets top and bottom
-Differential guard
-27 or 30 spline Longfield axles
-ARP steering knuckle studs
-ARP hub studs/bolts
-E-locker with cryo'd gears

That is a pretty basic recipie for a bombproof Toyota axle, of course many of those upgrades are equally applicable to the Dana.

The tie breaker would be what rear end are you using? I can't stand axles from different manufactures on opposite ends of a Truck.
 
Kiel

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
The 44 housing would be stronger in my opinion due to the cast material. isn't toyota stuff stamped steel? In the end I would go with the toyota anyways for the ease and availability. If your worried about R and P's go with the fj 60 or 80 stuff. I think they are 9.5
 
Bart

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
Funny timing on this thread. I've got a line on a lp Waggy 44 with 4.10s and a Detroit. I was thinking about a Yota rear axle with an e-locker for the rear, just to match the bolt pattern. I'm not even sure on the WMS on the yota.
 
SLC97SR5

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
The 44 housing would be stronger in my opinion due to the cast material. isn't toyota stuff stamped steel?
Click to expand...

Yes, but this is what makes it sooo easy to weld on additional gussets, shock mounts and hydro-assist brackets.
 
Herzog

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
SLC97SR5 said:
Yes, but this is what makes it sooo easy to weld on additional gussets, shock mounts and hydro-assist brackets.
Click to expand...

And the gear setup is really easy. But that's usually a one time deal unless you break an R&P.

Personally, I'd go for the Dana axle at the end of the day. There are many pro's and con's between them both, it might just come down to personal preference.
 
I Lean

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
SLC97SR5 said:
The tie breaker would be what rear end are you using? I can't stand axles from different manufactures on opposite ends of a Truck.
Click to expand...

Bart said:
Funny timing on this thread. I've got a line on a lp Waggy 44 with 4.10s and a Detroit. I was thinking about a Yota rear axle with an e-locker for the rear, just to match the bolt pattern. I'm not even sure on the WMS on the yota.
Click to expand...

I have a Wagoneer D44 front, and a Toyota rear axle for my Willys. :greg:

A front Toy minitruck axle is about 56.5" WMS-WMS. Bart, the rear axles come 55" for the solid axle years, 58" for the 86-95 IFS years (which is what I have), and about 60" for early Tacoma years.
 
kake

kake

Registered User
Location
Kaysville
Hey Greg, what about an FJ80 front axle? Too expensive? I have seen some going for a fair price on other websites w/out the elect locker.

The housings are way stronger than toyota mini truck (square shaped and larger), bigger birfields, high pinion, 4 piston brakes, and light weight.

Steering can be an issue but I have found an inexpensive solution to get the tie rod up front.
 
Greg

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Location
Grand Junction, CO
SLC97SR5 said:
They are both proven axles and given the right amount of time and money they are comparable to the D60 without the weight and clearance penalty of the enormous pumpkin.

If both axles were built equally I think they would be equally as good--profound right?

I know which axle I would build, the Toyota 8".

Here is my parts list:
-Upper housing brace
-Knuckle gussets top and bottom
-Differential guard
-27 or 30 spline Longfield axles
-ARP steering knuckle studs
-ARP hub studs/bolts
-E-locker with cryo'd gears

That is a pretty basic recipie for a bombproof Toyota axle, of course many of those upgrades are equally applicable to the Dana.

The tie breaker would be what rear end are you using? I can't stand axles from different manufactures on opposite ends of a Truck.
Click to expand...

I like that list of parts, I think that would be a good way to beef up a Toyota axle.

The rear axle is up in the air. Mabey a Tacoma 8.4, or a Ford 9".



Herzog said:
And the gear setup is really easy. But that's usually a one time deal unless you break an R&P.

Personally, I'd go for the Dana axle at the end of the day. There are many pro's and con's between them both, it might just come down to personal preference.
Click to expand...

If I could easily build a HP Dana 44 that was passenger drop, I'd be very tempted. I don't think it would be too hard, but would require some precision I may not be able to provide.


kake said:
Hey Greg, what about an FJ80 front axle? Too expensive? I have seen some going for a fair price on other websites w/out the elect locker.

The housings are way stronger than toyota mini truck (square shaped and larger), bigger birfields, high pinion, 4 piston brakes, and light weight.

Steering can be an issue but I have found an inexpensive solution to get the tie rod up front.
Click to expand...

I would love an FJ80 front axle. Honestly that would be my #1 choice, but the ones I have seen are all pretty spendy. Getting a high pinion would be great, I know the housing is beefy and I could use the factory radius arm setup.

If the rear-mounted tie rod stayed out of the rocks, I'd run it. Did you end up using a factory right-hand drive knuckle?

Where are you seeing them priced decently? Cost is another factor to this, I'd want to keep it affordable.
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
The only downsides to the FJ/FZJ80 axle are the steering (which can be worked around) and the width, nearly 8" wider than a standard 79-85' PU/4R front axle. Combined with a Tacoma rear, you would have a pretty rocking setup if you can deal with the "outside the body" width on a build.
 
kake

kake

Registered User
Location
Kaysville
Greg said:
I would love an FJ80 front axle. Honestly that would be my #1 choice, but the ones I have seen are all pretty spendy. Getting a high pinion would be great, I know the housing is beefy and I could use the factory radius arm setup.

If the rear-mounted tie rod stayed out of the rocks, I'd run it. Did you end up using a factory right-hand drive knuckle?

Where are you seeing them priced decently? Cost is another factor to this, I'd want to keep it affordable.
Click to expand...

The cheapest one I can think of is the one you already have. :D Seriously though, they have come down a lot since I bought mine 4 years ago due to availability. I search "fj80" and "fzj80" on pirate regularly and see quite a few (as opposed to 4 years ago). Price depends on the locker situation. I mean you know how it works everybody posts a price--you never give them that price! ;) I wouldn't pay over $500 for a non-locker one. But you should be able to get one with a locker for around $1000. Sounds like a lot but you know you are getting a lot. You already have an extra rear FJ80 axle and they would match right up!

Another option would be to piece one together as I have also seen alot FJ80 axle stuff being sold seperately on pirate. This would probably be the cheapest route but would take an indefinate timeframe.

Lastly, I could have sworn I saw a complete FJ80 for sale on RME (could be getting my sites mixed up) for like $1500.

What do you think you would be in a D44 or Toyota 8" that is trussed, selectable locker, big brakes, upgraded ujoints/birfs, & high pinion?
 
cruiseroutfit

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
FWIW there is an LX450 for sale in Heber on KSL. Had a fire but axles & drivetrain are sound. One could easily part it out and cover the cost of the axles.
 
L

leorn

reset
Location
Roy
I have always understood the Dana 44 housing is far superior. I'm sure you know the toy is famous for bending. Complaints I hear/have experienced are: the tube thickness is less, the knuckle balls are another weak spot, the diff studs can loosen, when welded they tend to pull if they are not well jigged. I think you could build either to be comparable, but in stock form the Dana takes it.

Personally I would not use my toy housing in a vehicle that I planned on jumping.
 
suisuki

suisuki

Chrome Won't Get ya' home
Location
Murray, UT
For what it's worth I've been running 39.5" tires on my front toy 8" with zero breakage.
I have been way hard on it too, binding it up, droping the clutch, bouncing up waterfalls, jumping it at the dunes ect...

I have been way impressed with how it's holding up!

Here's the list of mods I run:

Longfield 30 spline Cmoly inners and birfs
Longfield Cmoly drive flanges with 6 pin hub mod
upper axle truss
stock lower axle truss
knuckle ball gussets
arp upper knuckle studs (for steering arms)
ott hi-steer arms
6"x1.5" hyrdo assist ram
detroit locker
5.29:1 gears
solid pinion spacer
button head studs for 3rd member
and marlin crawlers HD wheel seals

I would guess the next weak link would be the R&P but I haven't had a problem....yet.
 
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