Axle swapping time???

[Hickey]

Just kind of FMI (for my information)......if you did that, wouldn't you be stuck with a 'custom' axle length? Personally, I'd like to try and avoid anything that's not got a 'stock' application in case I need something PDQ to finish my trip or something......

Yes, you would need to shorten the long side. It will cost you about 80 bucks locally, but it will net you a stronger than stock shaft, because it will get rid of the necked down part of your shaft.

If you use the knuckles, you will need new stubs. The chevy's will not fit, and the 30's are the wrong joint.

 

[mbryson]

Yes, you would need to shorten the long side. It will cost you about 80 bucks locally, but it will net you a stronger than stock shaft, because it will get rid of the necked down part of your shaft.

If you use the knuckles, you will need new stubs. The chevy's will not fit, and the 30's are the wrong joint.

Most of the busted D44's I've seen are from the 297 joints rather than the spline. I'm not familiar with where the axle necks down. (might have a lot to do with my D30 usage.....)

 

[Hickey]

Most of the busted D44's I've seen are from the 297 joints rather than the spline. I'm not familiar with where the axle necks down. (might have a lot to do with my D30 usage.....)

I'm sure you are referring to Brent's bustage. I have a suspicion that Brent's stock shafts and joint always broke at the joint, because of how much turning he is/was getting out of his knuckles. Every 44 shaft I broke was at the splines. It necks down between the end of the splines and the seal surface. I never broke a 30 joint either, always shaft at the spline. That leads me to beleive, that if you don't have your steering stops set right, you add way more stress to the joint.

 

[MR.CJ-7]

I was wondering about the steering stop adjustments contributing to my broken joints.

 

[Hickey]

I was wondering about the steering stop adjustments contributing to my broken joints.

for every degree you are turning, the stress on that joint is multiplied.

 

[mbryson]

I'm sure you are referring to Brent's bustage. I have a suspicion that Brent's stock shafts and joint always broke at the joint, because of how much turning he is/was getting out of his knuckles. Every 44 shaft I broke was at the splines. It necks down between the end of the splines and the seal surface. I never broke a 30 joint either, always shaft at the spline. That leads me to beleive, that if you don't have your steering stops set right, you add way more stress to the joint.

Brent's the only person I've known to spline {defined as the splines are 'spun' at the carrier} a D44 before the 297 broke and took out the axle ears (well, apparently other than you). I break the same joint in the D-30 with no mods to the steering stops and I'm quite careful that I have the wheels straight if I need to 'get it'.

I'm sure if the steering stops are over adjusted the joint will go boom PDQ.......I'm running a set of 760's (snap ringed) and they really haven't been that great. They are still together, but you can tell there's some looseness in there.

I'm thinking of running a bushing in the other set of axles I have just for experimental purposes.

 

[MR.CJ-7]

Hey, I think I may be on to something here. I just got a lead on a '76 waggy for sale with according to the story I was told it has "new mag wheels worth $200-300" that would be a bonus for me if it is true and they are what I could use. From the searching I did on the web this one probably has the 44 up front and the 20 in the rear. I could live with that since I like the 20 I have now and just want to go wider(could keep my gears too!) The guy wants 1000 or best offer(haven't got to talk with him yet to see if he'll nego. with me) what do you think should I consider it or try to find the axles by themselves???

 

[tweakeyjeep]

If it comes with the wheels... That would be a way good deal... If no wheels try talking him down to $700 - $800.

 

[bobdog]

1000 bucks sounds way way high to me. WAY HIGH! If you want the wheels then great but We all see waggy axles way cheeper all the time. $100 an axle is common and the 20 even though just as good or better than the 44 rear is worth less. I think $200 for a good front and $100 for a rear is about fair. One thing to consider is that a waggy axle cut down on one side will be narower than a widtrack CJ axle. I read a lot of things about cutting one down and thought it was the way to go also(I was looking for stock widetrac width). After talking to Charles at Rockymountain axle I decided against it. If you plan on leaving the waggy width and outboarding springs no problem except that tires will rub your springs. The wheel mount surface is even closer to the spring than it is on a widetrack CJ (not by too much though). Do you ever plan on going SOA? Axle swap time is also a good time to consider it. If you ever want SOA get a chevy axle now and the axle GTI is selling is exactly what you want. Narrowing it wont be too expensive(give Charles a call you may be surprised how cheep, and you will still come in under the $1000 you want to spend for the waggy axles.

 

[bobdog]

I should rephrase. 1000 is not high for a whole waggy but just to get axles that is too much. If you want to dick around with parting out the truck then go for it.

 

[MR.CJ-7]

I'm not planning on giving him the 1000, that was just his asking price. If I can't get it for 500-600 then I'll pass on it. I don't really want to screw with parting it out, but wouldn't mind a few of the parts especially if it has a 401 for my CJ

 

[MR.CJ-7]

As long as were talking about cutting down...about what price range would I be in if I were to have a couple of 60's cut down? Maybe I should just do this once?