ZUKEYPR
Registered User
- Location
- 651.78 miles East of the Rubicon
Is it acceptable when the castle nut is torqued to specs but goes past the cotter pin hole to back it off, insert washers, retorque, then insert cotter pin?
Ball Joint Spacers
- Thread starter ZUKEYPR
- Start date
- Location
- West Bountiful, UT
Don't know. I've always either just kept going to the next hole or backed off if it only needs to come back part of the hole.
- DAA
- DAA
- Location
- Stinkwater
I'm pretty sure DAA is my spirit animal, because that's always how I've done it too. Assuming we're talking about ball joints and such, you're not going to overtorque that puppy by going to the next notch.
BlueWolfFab
Running Behind
- Location
- Eagle Mountain
I think he means that the cotter pin hole is completely above the height of the castle nut. As in with the nut tight, the top "castle" part of the nut is not going to be engaging any cotter pin and therefore the cotter pin isn't going to keep the nut from backing off.
My opinion is yes, if you put a good heavy duty washer in there (like grade 8 or whatever, you can get ones that are thicker than standard so hopefully you don't have to use more than 1-2 washers) but I'd think you'd be fine.
Or, you might be able to find a castle nut that is a little longer.
Or also, the cotter pin really is only a safety device for *if* the nut backs off. The nut shouldn't[\i] back off if torqued correctly, so even if you put a castle nut and it wasn't engaged in any of the castle notches, it wouldn't prevent the nut from loosening a bit but it would prevent it from coming all the way off.
My opinion is yes, if you put a good heavy duty washer in there (like grade 8 or whatever, you can get ones that are thicker than standard so hopefully you don't have to use more than 1-2 washers) but I'd think you'd be fine.
Or, you might be able to find a castle nut that is a little longer.
Or also, the cotter pin really is only a safety device for *if* the nut backs off. The nut shouldn't[\i] back off if torqued correctly, so even if you put a castle nut and it wasn't engaged in any of the castle notches, it wouldn't prevent the nut from loosening a bit but it would prevent it from coming all the way off.
gatchmo5710
Active Member
It is absolutely acceptable to space it out with washers. Much better then over torqueing or just putting in the cotter key way above the castellation. 90% of hardware on my helicopters are torqued that way.
ZUKEYPR
Registered User
- Location
- 651.78 miles East of the Rubicon
Exactly the situation. I believe when I initially put them on (less than 2 years ago I think) I ran the specified torque but that drove the castle nut way to high for the cotter pin so I just backed it back down. Now I got at leaast 1/4" up/down movement. I believe that is what's causign my (lack of a better description) two quick bangs when tires are turned to steering wheel lock in either direction, at slow speeds, and I hit the brakes. Thought I'd try the spacer method before I go buying brand new ball joints. They weren't cheap (Synergy)