Bender Questions

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I just picked up a JD2 Model 3 Manual Bender and want to get it setup this weekend. I have a couple questions-



#1- Concrete Anchors - Will 3/8" x 3.5" be sufficent for keeping the Stand in place?

#2- Is a 1/4" x 12" Square Base plate enough to keep it in place?

#3- Anyone have issues with their JD2 Dies chipping and leaving scratches in the Tube?

#4- Anyone need a 2", 180* JD2 Die?
 

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
you sonuvabitch........you purposly making us all jealous by telling us this info under the guise of mounting questions......you are MEAN!!! but congrats anyway!!:D


your mounting sounds good to me!
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Yeah, yeah....... :p

I really am curious about how to get it right the First time. I almost bought the Concrete Anchors tonight, but wanted to gather opinions first.

Anyone have a Hammer Drill I can borrow?
 

spencurai

Purple Burglar Alarm
Location
WVC,UT
if you come up to ogden, I got a hammer drill you can borrow. it is shiney and new and never been used....you can use it if you come pick it up :)
 

redrock

Active Member
Location
payson,utah
Originally posted by Greg
Yeah, yeah....... :p

I really am curious about how to get it right the First time. I almost bought the Concrete Anchors tonight, but wanted to gather opinions first.

Anyone have a Hammer Drill I can borrow?
now that you have a bender we all invited up to bend all our pipe
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
I think we used 1/2 anchors and had a base of about 18x24. I think you will be ok though.

Get a fine grit disk/drum on a die grinder or dremmel and and polish the edges of the dies. Take your time. I have done this on many dies and they work great. Watch them, if they get a burr, polish it out. Use lots of lube. You shouldn't have any problems.
HTH
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
My base plate is about 12 by 12, 1/4 inch. Works great. I used four 1/2 inch bolts to hold it down.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
make sure the concrete is real smooth and flat, grind it if it ain't. You don't want that thing rocking back and forth when you and three buddies are at the end of an eight foot pipe!:D
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
I have a hammer drill but probbably wouldent be able to let you use it till Sun. I even have the drill bits to use on half inch flush shells or 3/8. Either would be fine but I would suggest 1/2 inch.
I live in riverton (pritty close to Highland)so let me know if you still need the drill.
 
S

sukaB

Guest
Dear Dude,
that pays more for bender and grabs a crappy washer....
If your going to buy it, pay the extra cash and do it easy with the 10 ton ram........
why would you buy it when bends over here are effortless and only 5 bucks?
Damn kids never learn......
I do have a floor base plate you can have with holes already in it.
Yes it used to hold our model 3 and will not flex trust me.........
It's a sweet plate only one twelver for trade.....
We used red hots 1/2" shankers and a regular drill with concrete drill bit...HELLO
 

Vonski

nothing to see here...
Location
Payson, Utah
Originally posted by sukaB
Dear Dude,
that pays more for bender and grabs a crappy washer....

If your going to buy it, pay the extra cash and do it easy with the 10 ton ram........

Damn kids never learn......

Dammit Greg, just send the bender back you moron... LOL :D
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Originally posted by redrock

now that you have a bender we all invited up to bend all our pipe
I'm not bending PIPE!!! :D


Brandon- I'll take your old stand.....Do you want a case of Budwiser this time? (Now you you see why I was going cheap on the Washer and Dryer?? :p )

Troutbum- I PM'd ya back.




I think I'm not going to use the RedHead Studs. I'd rather have a Nut sunk into the Ground, so I'm not tripping over the Studs. I need to figure that out next.....

Thanks for the Tips and Tricks everyone!
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
1/2" flush shells mount into the the concrete FLUSH :rolleyes:
then just use a 1/2" x 1" cap screws with a washer to hold down the stand. A flush shell and cap screw are 10 times stronger than a stud. When we mount 5-8" steel pipe into a cement celing thats what we use and it seems to be plenty strong....lol
hope this helps.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Mine are not studs. They are a sleeve that you drop into the drilled hole, and when you thread a bolt into them they expand and anchor themselves in the concrete. You can take the bolts out, and they sit flush with the floor (although I always leave bolts in the holes to keep crud out of the threads). Got em at Home Depot.:D Don't ya hate it when they call your spendy DOM tube pipe?
 
S

sukaB

Guest
Hey,
Damit I thought it was way bad ass that you bought or would find a rusted crappy barely runnin washer and then grab yourself a new tube bender.......
BITCHEN
It's not the stand complete just one hell of a good base plate.
18 of natty light will work in trade.
It's the same exact piece that was on the old one.
Just have to grab a square tube and small plate for the top.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Great, thanks RockMonkey and Grinch. I'll look into those both of those.

Brandon, I'll take what you have. BTW, that free washer works Great!! (Thanks Blacksheep! :D )
 

grinch

inner city redneck
Location
Salt Lake City
If you use the flush shell or sleeve that rock monkey and I am talking about make sure you set it with a hamer and somthing small enough to fit in the hole and not destroy the the threds of the shell. If you dont set the shell you stand a good chance of it just spinning in the hole or pulling out of the concrete.
Alot of peopl dont know to set the shells so if you did sorry to explane and sound like a know it all. I just use these things all the time.
Oh ya if you still need a hammer drill to mount them the offer is still open...
 
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