Best Buggy Brakes

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
What have you guys with buggies been using as master cylinders for your brakes?

I ran Wilwoods on one buggy and CNC on my last buggy and have not been that thrilled with either. I really don't want to add a big booster, but I want brakes on this buggy that stop. Is there anything new on the market in the last couple years that kicks butt?
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
I am using a willwood 1 1/4 master cylinder, and an extra long pedal assambly for more leverage. I'll let you know how this works for me.
On a side note, do you know if D60 brake lines interchange with anything else? checker wants $38 each.:eek:
 

red

Active Member
Location
Eagle Mountain
the best braking system to go with is a hydroboost setup that gm and dodge use with their diesels and some 3/4-1 ton gassers. requires the power steering pump as well because thats what runs the brake master cylinder.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
I have been looking at those cnc and wilwood ones. They even have those dual ones where it's a split pedal so you don't have to have cutting brakes. I think poly perf. was where I was looking
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
I ran Wilwood and had excellent brakes. I think it's a matter of matching everything and getting them bled correctly. I bled mine many times and never got the results I wanted, finally I got the little hand vacuum for bleeding brakes and it worked like a charm...and all of a sudden my brakes kicked ass :p
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
I liked the predictability of my manual Wilwood's, I just got a too-large bore size. (1" each) It worked great but made for a very stiff pedal. If I'd gone smaller on the bore, the pedal would have moved more and applied more braking force for the same amount of foot force.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I am using a willwood 1 1/4 master cylinder, and an extra long pedal assambly for more leverage. I'll let you know how this works for me.
On a side note, do you know if D60 brake lines interchange with anything else? checker wants $38 each.:eek:


I'm pretty sure I'm using the K3500 lines from a '93. (doing a search)
 

Crinco

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber
I used a 8" duel diaphram master for mine, I would rate it as 'good', wish it was great. My buggy stops on a dime in high range.... It all depends on the reduction, what kind of numbers are you looking at Bart? 30:1 40:1 150:1 ? Tires? 38? 42? 49?? I am 47:1 with 42" tires and I find that I like to be in neutral coming off a ledge, gravity and engine can be too much after a long day on the trail. I also set up the brakes to work off my left foot, so I am not going back and forth.
If your going much past 50 or 60:1 in gearing, you might really consider the hydro boost, let the engine do the work. Does cost a little more though.
CR
 

PJTPW

Project Power Wagon
Location
Moab, Utah
I'm running CNC's on mine. Factory Ford 1 ton brakes in front, 3/4 ton chev in rear. I think the pedal is a 8.7:1 ratio. I can stop mine in 140:1 (before the torque converter).

It's all about getting the m/c's paired correctly to the calipers.

Ryan
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
Thanks guys, I leaning toward the dual pedal (one front and one rear) Wilwood set up with remote reservoirs. Can't use a booster because I'm running a Howe TC power steering pump.

The conflict I get is between the 7/8 bore and the 1.125 bore. Some people (Ben Hanks) say the bigger the better. Others like I Lean have a valid argument about the smaller bore. One thing I will do is get the longer swing pedals with the 7.1 ratio.
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Call me cheap, but, 1/2 ton chev calipers front and rear with a 1 1/32" wilwood mc made for a big mopar car....proportioned 60/40 and 5lb residuals all in the mc! run the lines and be done with it....I have to get on the throttle good before I can overpower them in low.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Call me cheap, but, 1/2 ton chev calipers front and rear with a 1 1/32" wilwood mc made for a big mopar car....proportioned 60/40 and 5lb residuals all in the mc! run the lines and be done with it....I have to get on the throttle good before I can overpower them in low.

Do you have a vacuum booster, or is it manual? (cuz it sounds good)
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Do you have a vacuum booster, or is it manual? (cuz it sounds good)
Manual....I hate Boosters....bad taste from back in the pre FI days....;)
I used a sightly longer rod then my stock one....I could tell you how long If I could find the Bronco under the snow!! (Can't even see the blue tarp)
I have used it with both the ford and chev 1/2 ton front calipers and always chev calipers on the rear....Cheap, easy, and it works!!
I have set up a couple other rigs this way with similar results....got a lot of the EB guys doing it too....
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Manual....I hate Boosters....bad taste from back in the pre FI days....;)
I used a sightly longer rod then my stock one....I could tell you how long If I could find the Bronco under the snow!! (Can't even see the blue tarp)
I have used it with both the ford and chev 1/2 ton front calipers and always chev calipers on the rear....Cheap, easy, and it works!!
I have set up a couple other rigs this way with similar results....got a lot of the EB guys doing it too....

Is it this one? http://store.summitracing.com/partd...rt=WIL-260-4894&N=700+400196+115&autoview=sku

I was hoping for something cheaper, if so....
 

PJTPW

Project Power Wagon
Location
Moab, Utah
Thanks guys, I leaning toward the dual pedal (one front and one rear) Wilwood set up with remote reservoirs. Can't use a booster because I'm running a Howe TC power steering pump.

The conflict I get is between the 7/8 bore and the 1.125 bore. Some people (Ben Hanks) say the bigger the better. Others like I Lean have a valid argument about the smaller bore. One thing I will do is get the longer swing pedals with the 7.1 ratio.

With the dual piston Ford calipers and 3/4 ton chev stuff in the rear, I'm running a 3/4" front and 7/8" rear with residual valves. Love it. The issue is that you don't want to go too small and not be able to move enough volume. The CNC m/c's I'm using have travel similiar to the Wilwood high volume m/c's.

I would go with the 7/8" and the high volume m/c's by wilwood or the CNC masters.

Pedal ratio makes a HUGE difference in my experience.

Ryan
 

Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
Interesting idea going with a dual pedal set up, one for front and one for the rear, and going with a smaller bore for the front. Hmmmmm.. Thinking of a 7/8s" front and a 1" rear, both with residual valves.
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Interesting idea going with a dual pedal set up, one for front and one for the rear, and going with a smaller bore for the front. Hmmmmm.. Thinking of a 7/8s" front and a 1" rear, both with residual valves.

Yeah dual pedal, that was my idea. :D The guys buggy from 4low in Crawl magazine had one, got me thinking a while back
 
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