Bike maintenance fluids and oils.

jentzschman

jentzschman

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy, Utah
In anticipation of getting my, new to me 2t yz, I am making a list of some maintenance items to get done and just wanted to get some feedback as this is my first ever dirt bike.

I will be changing out the gear box oil, coolant, and brake fluids.

I was wondering if I could get some advice on some good gear oil to use, pre-mix oil, and coolant fluid?

I would like to stick to 100% synthetics as I hear they tend to handle the high temps and stress better.

I will be using premium pump gas (the up to 10% ethanol stuff) but would like to use pure gas as much as possible when I can get to one of the very few stations that carries it in the SL valley.

So what gear oil and pre-mix oil would you recommend?
 
Whichever 2 stroke oil you go with, stick with it. Its supposedly hard on the bike if you're always switching between different oils. I would also recommend buying a second air filter and a few new spark plugs. Its nice to always have a clean air filter to drop in there every ride. With 2 filters, you can rotate and clean one while the other one is in the bike.
 
Last edited:
Regardless of what type of oil I have run I, have always liked to change my gear oil often. For a long time i have run a 50/50 mix of Rotella and type F ATF in the gear boxes of my 2 strokes. I run Klotz R50 in my gas.......it makes the best smelling exhaust.:D
 
Change the air filter at least once a year, wether it needs it or not. I usually just but the pre oiled disposable kind. Change the gear oil ever time you rebuild the motor- about every 8 years.
I run Ipone synthetic oil. Rather expensive and hard to find, but smells the best, and is the cleanest oil ever for the motor.
 
I'm a fan of the Pro Honda HP 80w/85w transmission oil for two strokes. (This grade is not the same as 80w-90 hypoid gear lube) Fwiw I HATE Belray's gear saver or gear slayer as I call it. :ugh:

I've used Klotz R50 or Super Techniplate for my gas since I was a kid and don't plan to change that.

PJ1 for the air cleaner. A scoop of Tide works very well for cleaning the filter when using PJ1 or No-Toil. Avoid using No-Toil with UNI brand filters. Both are good products when used separately but something about that oil eats the glue and they come apart when used together.
 
So the air filter needs oil on it then? Good to know. What is the difference between R50 and Super techniplate?

EDIT: It seems that the techniplate is designed for those who ride high in the RPM's. For lower speed and usually lower engine temps, the techniplate could cause the power valve to gum up and cause more oil residue.

Not sure how true this is. While I will not be in the higher RPM's until I get use to riding, I also do not want a lot of excess oil/gas residue. I might be way over thinking all this, but I like to do as much research as I can.

This is where I found some info but plan on doing a little more research as well: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/607527-klotz-super-techniplate/
 
Last edited:
Some bikes need their air filter cleaned more often than others. I would inspect it after every big ride and clean often. Spray/pour the oil on and squeeze the foam so it gets covered with oil evenly. Rim grease should be put around the sealing surface.


Super Techniplate from RMATV: "Pure synthetic bases are blended with 20% Be'Nol racing castor oil *Provides engine with clean burn quality of Klotz synthetic lubricants and the film strength of Castor oil. *For high rpm racing only. *Pre-mix only". I like the added castor oil of the Super Tech for my CR500 because it is air cooled and fluctuates a lot in temperature. Klotz does make an unblended castor oil called Be'Nol but I wouldn't recommend it for bikes with power valves because it produces more carbon buildup compared to the synthetics.

EDIT: Remember the transmission fluid drain bolt threads into an aluminum case. Do yourself a favor and use a torque wrench when re-installing it. You wouldn't believe how many of these get stripped from over tightening.
 
Last edited:
Rot Box said:
Some bikes need their air filter cleaned more often than others. I would inspect it after every big ride and clean often. Spray/pour the oil on and squeeze the foam so it gets covered with oil evenly. Rim grease should be put around the sealing surface.



Super Techniplate from RMATV: "Pure synthetic bases are blended with 20% Be'Nol racing castor oil *Provides engine with clean burn quality of Klotz synthetic lubricants and the film strength of Castor oil. *For high rpm racing only. *Pre-mix only". I like the added castor oil of the Super Tech for my CR500 because it is air cooled and fluctuates a lot in temperature. Klotz does make an unblended castor oil called Be'Nol but I wouldn't recommend it for bikes with power valves because it produces more carbon buildup compared to the synthetics.

EDIT: Remember the transmission fluid drain bolt threads into an aluminum case. Do yourself a favor and use a torque wrench when re-installing it. You wouldn't believe how many of these get stripped from over tightening.
Click to expand...


IVE DONE THIS TWICE!!!! on my KX 500 and my KX450. use torque wrench like he said!

also buy yourself a cheap ($30) digital hour meter/tach and install it so you can keep track of your hrs for service. once you determine how many hrs you can ride per service keep track of your hrs and service promptly, I change oil every 5 hrs, clean air filter every 3hrs. more often after trip to dunes or after a desert race. or just riding in a large pack with tons of dust. keep chain clean and lubed, get your self some fork bleeders to vent forks easier. KLOTZ smells good makes me miss my 2stroke when ever I smell it.
 
Rot Box said:
Super Techniplate from RMATV: "Pure synthetic bases are blended with 20% Be'Nol racing castor oil *Provides engine with clean burn quality of Klotz synthetic lubricants and the film strength of Castor oil. *For high rpm racing only. *Pre-mix only". I like the added castor oil of the Super Tech for my CR500 because it is air cooled and fluctuates a lot in temperature. Klotz does make an unblended castor oil called Be'Nol but I wouldn't recommend it for bikes with power valves because it produces more carbon buildup compared to the synthetics.
Click to expand...


Andrew, I'm trying to decide between R-50 and Super Techniplate for my KDX 220. Both say they're for high RPM , but Super Techniplate says it's for high RPM racing only. I don't race, and most of my time is spend in low-mid RPM. Is the super techniplate going to gunk up my power valve running it at low RPMs? I assume the small amount of castor oil in there will gunk stuff up a bit. It seems like the high RPMs help burn all the castor oil to keep it clean.

If my above logic is correct, I'm going to go with R-50 or Maxima K-2. Will R-50 be decent for lugging around, or should it only be used in high-rpm situations?
 
Steve, can't comment on the Maxima 2T oil but I think you'd be just fine with either Klotz. Buy a gallon of R50 and call it good ;) Fwiw everyone I ride with uses Ams-oil Dominator which can be conveniently bought at parts stores like Napa. Good oil too from what I have seen other than the burn crayon smell :ugh:
 
Sweet. I am doing a bunch of research on jetting right now so I can get it dialed in. I am going to check the float and pilot jet this week and change the plug. Then see how she runs. Possibly pull the head to look at the piston, I am considering a top-end rebuild.
 
I run yamalube or klots. I just started running ATF in the case and I'm liking how the bikes shift.
I use FFT on the filters. Clean with mineral spirits then dry, then dish soap and hot water. You really want your air filter clean. I had a bike that wouldn't run right no matter how I jetted it. I cleaned the filter 3 times before it finally got all the fine particles out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
glockman said:
I use FFT on the filters. Clean with mineral spirits then dry, then dish soap and hot water. You really want your air filter clean. I had a bike that wouldn't run right no matter how I jetted it. I cleaned the filter 3 times before it finally got all the fine particles out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use the same oil and clean my filters the same way. It is amazing how much dirt comes out of the filter when washed with soap and water after the mineral spirits.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top