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Body lift ?'s

01XJ

01XJ

Well-Known Member
Location
Pleasant Grove!
I own a 2k Durango and lift kits are pretty much non existent other than a torsion crank/keys and a add a leaf or shackle and then that only nets ya 2-3" at most. I would like to run 5" and i already have 2.5"-/+ and the only way to net my 5" would be to install the 3" body lift they make for it. I have never done a body lift so i need to know how hard is this going to be to install? 1. I do not have a garage or power tools so that leaves me laying out in the driveway with hand tools trying to do this. I have read mixed reviews on it being easy and only a couple hr job and others say it was a nightmare and would never do it again or recommend anyone try it:confused:
 
Badger

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
I tend to shy away from body lifts. I understand sometimes it's the only way. I know I wouldn't install a 3" body lift it just adds way to much leverage to a small body bolt . As to how hard/easy it will be. It all depends on how rusted and stuck the body bolts are. Also how do you plan to raise the body over all to be able to replace the body mount bushings? You might be able to use a floor jack and do a few at time. Then you are left with other issues. You will be gaining a huge 3" gap between the body and the bumpers that will have to be addressed. Sometimes the steering shaft will bind due to the added angle or it might even hit something inside the engine bay. With these newer vehicles and the tighter engine bay things are tight to begin with.

I would be looking to do and SAS on it and dump the IFS up front over body lift. It would cost more but it would also be a more capable vehicle once done.
 
TooeleBronco

TooeleBronco

let's go wheelin
Location
Tooele, UT
If you are going ahead with the body lift I'd keep it 2" or less. They are easy to put on but the harder part is stuff like the fan (unless you have electric), brake lines), and steering shaft (sometimes needs to be lengthened).
 
01XJ

01XJ

Well-Known Member
Location
Pleasant Grove!
Silly Willy said:
Honestly, I would say SAS it and make your own lift kit. as Badger said it will be more capable and be what you are aiming for to begin with.
Click to expand...
a SAS is way more than needed i dont need this rig to be that capable the ifs will do what i need it to. Im not out crawling rocks and doing hardcore stuff in this thing it is just going to be a mild trail rig. I already ran forest lake no problems and that would be the worst trail this rig would see. So doing a SAS would be overkill. Im just looking for a tad more lift mainly just for looks and to help keep the body off the rocks a little better. But i guess thats what sliders are for:D Plus we are talking 200 smackers for a body lift and probably around several thousand to have a SAS done unless someone wants to do a SAS for 200 bucks:rofl:;)
 
Chevycrew

Chevycrew

Well-Known Member
Location
WVC, UT
Im going through this with my crew cab. There is no "max" on body lift height in utah. What it states is there is a maximum of 3" allowed between the lowest part of the floor pan and the top of the frame. It does not state where to measure. But when UHP inspected mine, they measured under the drivers door, above the frame. Mine measured at 5" with a 3" body lift. So, technically, I can only add a 1" spacer on top of the factory body mounts. (Here is the but, the lowest portion of the floor pan is less than 3" above the frame in other locations, technically making it legal.)

I would use a performance accessories kit, they should include steering correction and front and rear bumper brackets. The optional gap guards should get you by most inspection stations.

If not, you should be able to reinforce the top of your frame, by adding steel, which in turn would close the gap. ( I have not tried this yet.)
 
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