Body Work People Assemble...or Anyone Else

[EROK81?]

I've never used Bondo or any other fillers, opting for the better method of welding. In this case I am waaay to lazy and will eventually either cut this section out or replace the entire QP. It's getting old looking at it so it's time to do something.

The rust isn't that bad but there are holes and gaps. I've attached a photo so you can see the extent. What I've done is use expandable foam to fill the gaps and make the fender a bit sturdier.....

Here is where my question comes in. The foam is fairly porous but it is mostly hard and can be sanded. I need to smooth this out and seal it better. Bondo to the rescue!

Which is better to use - normal pink bondo or the stuff with fiberglass pieces in it? I've also heard of people smoothing over it with seam sealer and sanding that, but most seam sealer I've used seems to stay a bit soft.

Any ideas?

 

[Rusted]

The stuff i would use is called duraglass, and it is the fiberglass based stuff. If you get any water into the bondo or if it flexes at all it will crack and you will be doing it again. Duraglass will hold up to water and does not crack as easy. Hard to tell from the photo but you really maybe better off cutting the rust out and welding in some patches of sheet metal.

 

[EROK81?]

It would definitely be better to cut and weld, I agree. However with 40 hours of work and 14 hours of 8-week long classes, I don't have the time to do it right. Not to mention the six months of bodywork I did on my VW, I'd rather slam my you-know-what in a drawer than do real bodywork.

 

[rollover]

The stuff i would use is called duraglass, and it is the fiberglass based stuff. If you get any water into the bondo or if it flexes at all it will crack and you will be doing it again. Duraglass will hold up to water and does not crack as easy. Hard to tell from the photo but you really maybe better off cutting the rust out and welding in some patches of sheet metal.

X2

I almost always use Duraglass, Easy to use and flexes well.

 

[EROK81?]

Duraglass it is then.

Next question...where to purchase it? I probably don't need massive can of it, just enough for a fender.

 

[Brett]

Auto Body Supply? or whatever their new name is.

 

[X1994J]

Auto Body Supply? or whatever their new name is.

Are you referring to National Coating and Supply, which used to be Mountain West auto Body Supply on 3300 s. and 3rd west? That's where I get all my stuff.

 

[rholbrook]

If your fender looks like the rest of the toyota, then by all means use the Duraglass. If the rest of your toyota looks good, then fix it right by welding in a panel.

 

[EROK81?]

The rest of the vehicle is completely rust free. That's the worst spot only because I sprayed it with some rust converter.

I'll fix it the correct way eventually, that I know how to do. I just don't have the time now.

 

[Hickey]

If ya don't have the time now, why would you want to redo it later? Leave it as is until you have the time.

 

[Brett]

Are you referring to National Coating and Supply, which used to be Mountain West auto Body Supply on 3300 s. and 3rd west? That's where I get all my stuff.

That's the one.....couldn't remember the new name!

 

[rollover]

Duraglass it is then.

Next question...where to purchase it? I probably don't need massive can of it, just enough for a fender.

Auto Zone, Napa, Checker and yes even Walmart..... almost all parts stores carry it.

Auto Body paint places have it as well (no brainier). Make sure your hardener is soft and pliable (new product). Works better and last longer.