Jeep Build- Jeep YJ Unlimited / family wheeler

idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
awesome looking rig. Low gears will make it amazing.
Ya, I really need to get the axles geared. It would be SO much easier to drive. Even with 4:1 Tcase, I was pretty hard on the clutch in the rocks.
I will be sending you guys a PM for Dana 60 and 14 Bolt install kits etc as soon as I get a couple of my extra Jeep parts sold.

Barnes 4wd has some nice skid plates for reasonable prices. I was able to get their flat one and with a clocking ring tuck my Tcase up without a body lift.
Thats exactly the type that I am looking at. I thought $150 + $15 freight was expensive, until I looked into just buying a 4'x4' sheet of 1/4" for $100 +/- and then having to do all of the drilling and bending on top of that. I will still need to build a cross member to support the trans/tcase so it doesnt rely on the skid plate. I hate supporting all of that stuff every time I take the skid plate off to work on something. I will likely just go with the Barnes unit.
 

idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Urban wheeling on a work day!
The rear tires rub the inner fender well like crazy. If I hadn't bent the pinch weld over flat to the inside of the fenders in the rear, I would have cut and flattened the right rear. The front left has a couple inches of up travel room before the axle contacts the frame.

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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Picture of my Jeep next to my dads on 37's.
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I received my order from Barnes4wd today.
I got 14 bolt cover, D60 cover, 14 bolt pinion guard, and cross member bushing set.
Next, I hope to get 5.38 diff gears installed, finally! This thing needs lower gears bad!
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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
I worked on my new (to this Jeep) rear axle last night. Its an AAM 10.5 (newer 14 bolt) out of 2002 GMC 2500 6.0 gas pickup.
Apparently I didn't do enough research on this set up. I'm happy with the axle because it has factory disks with e-brakes, takes standard 14 bolt cover/gears/locker/pinion guard. But, because it has a drain plug in the bottom, it cannot be shaved much without doing a full shave and having to turn the ring gear and weld a plate on the bottom. I was looking for the easy way out by using the Barnes 4WD cover.... Now, I think I will probably go with the TMR kit, turn the ring gear, and weld the housing :/

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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Just run it how it is and see if you hate it? I would

I might leave it. I just dont want to tear it apart again later and have to set the gears again after doing the housing. I'm really leaning toward just shaving it now while it is out of the rig and disassembled....... I don't really want to shave it though. Its not the labor, or even turning down the ring gear that bothers me. Its the welding that I don't want to mess with. I have never welded cast. I have a couple friends that weld for a living, so I bet I could get one of them to do it for me.
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
With the drain plug and everything like it is, I'd just run it. If you hate it, buy another 14 bolt for $200 and shave that, then swap it in ashen you're done.
 

idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
I got all of the brackets removed from the rear axle. I disassembled the diff and started the shave. I decided to shave the housing just to the height of the Barnes cover. This will keep from having to turn the ring gear and modify the cover. I marked the housing with a laser level, and cut it off with a sawz-all. Then I smoothed it out with a flap wheel and started to figure out the new piece to cover the hole I just cut. I built a paper template, cut the piece with a torch and smoothed it off with a flap wheel. Ready to be welded.

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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Since my last post in this thread, not much has been done with the new rear axle. I have it all welded and ready to assemble, but while starting assembly, I realized that I have a factory "locker-ish" type differential. This wont work for me. SO, I grabbed my spare 14 bolt carrier (that I had assumed was 4.10 carrier) and after welding the spiders and starting to assemble it, I realized it was a 4.56 carrier and wont work with the "thick" gears that I bought for the other carrier. (I should look into things a little more before I get this deep!) So the rear axle sits on jack stands still.....

But, since then, I went wheeling and had a blast. This thing drives over stuff better than any of my other Jeeps. Probably because its the only one I've owned with 42s, 2 lockers, and full width axles!
While wheeling , I did some fairly significant rocker panel damage, and removerd 90% of my exhaust system while stuck in a rock pile.
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Then I saw the post from Maverick, wanting a YJ 2.5 for his kids Jeep. We worked a deal and now I have a Jeep that doesn't drive and his kid does.
I ended up with a GM 350, with Holley Pro-jection out of the deal too.

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The engine is partially disassembled in order to repaint it and install new gasket set while it's out. I will probably do timing chain, and oil pump while I'm at it, just because it's cheap insurance and way easier to do while its on the stand than in the rig.

I have the block painted and I'm painting the tins now. Should have it all painted and sealed up by this weekend.
I bought a Dana 300 locally, and I'm still searching for a TH350 automatic trans, and some SBC short headers.

I've run out of $ until I can sell some of my misc garage parts, and my NP231 with the 4:1 kit. Until I come up with the money and parts needed, I will work on removing the old motor mounts, and the old transmission and transfer case. I might paint the fire wall too.

Here is how it sits now. :(

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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Not much progress lately. I have the frame rails stripped of brackets and ready for new motor mounts and shock hoops. I have decided to c-notch the frame for a bit more up travel while I'm at it.
I have also decided to go a different route on the transfer case. I was planning a flipped D300, but for similar $ I can do a Behemoth doubler to Ford NP205. I am running a TH350 trans, planning reverse/manual valve body with Winters shifter.

Current state.
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idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
No major progress to post, but I have been working on the front frame clearance for a little more up travel.

I am cutting out the area covered in masking tape. This will gain 2.5" up travel.
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I made a rubbing of the tape area so I could transfer it to cereal boxes for a template.
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Cereal box template for side plates to be made from 3/16" plate. The center area is 3" tall, which is 1.5" above the existing frame. The reinforced area will also be spanned by shock hoops with gussets.
I ended up extending the template/frame plate over the factory cross member hole and beyond the front of the frame. I will wrap the ends of the plates over the front of my new bumper when I get to that part of the project.
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Coco

Well-Known Member
Location
Lehi, UT
Such a sweet build. I love how low it is with big tires. Probably fairly cheap to build in comparison to my buggy for example as well! I have always loved low/big tire'd rigs :D
 

idahoyj

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls Idaho
Such a sweet build. I love how low it is with big tires. Probably fairly cheap to build in comparison to my buggy for example as well! I have always loved low/big tire'd rigs :D

Thanks, it is a fairly cheap project. Not much bling etc.
There is nothing actually inexpensive though, when you have 1 Tons, 42's, low gears, and V8 power!
 
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