Ford Build Thread: FrED the Ford. '98 E350 7.3 4x4 The More We Explore's Adventure Van

[sixstringsteve]

I've decided on a 6" UJOR kit. Chris has been awesome, as expected, and I can't wait to get this thing done. He's hooking us up as a sponsor for our build. It'll be great to have his support.

I like builds, but life's kinda crazy right now and I'll be excited to have this thing driving with the new suspension. Fortunately I have lots of good friends who are willing to help. It's my DD, so I'm betting I'll be getting a few rides to work from my wife for the next few weeks once my springs arrive.

The two parts I'm most worried about are
1) all the holes I'll have to drill to get the front spring hangers mounted
2) finding someone with a plasma cutter or a 90* drill bit to cut the shackle sleeves.

Now I'm on the lookout for some 17" wheels 8x170mm bolt pattern. I'll be looking for 35" tires for now. I usually buy new, and I'll probably do the same for this, but I'm open to other options.

I'm also looking for a 99-04 F250/F350 front sway bar.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Posted for future reference in case I want to swap to discs in the rear.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/881146-dana-60-rear-axle-disc-brakes.html

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Dana-60-Bolt-On-Brake-Caliper-Bracket-Ford_p_1596.html

 

[TJDukit]

Good to see the plans coming together.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I don't want to give too much away because I'm doing a video series of this build, but you guys are like family. SPOILER ALERT.

This Saturday I picked up a 2002 F350 D60 axle from Mitch @ Ufab. It's got the 1 5/16" pinion nut, so it's definitely a D60 (not that I don't trust Mitch, I just wanted to verify).

It's got quite a bit of surface rust, but it comes off easily enough with a wire wheel. The inners turn nice. When I lock the hubs, it won't turn. The calipers appear to be siezed, but I haven't messed with them much. The calipers were left exposed with no brake line attached, so water got inside them. I'll be replacing those. I'm unsure what the unit bearings look like. Mitch said it only had 90k on the axle, which is good. I have a few questions since this is my first Dana axle:

I plan on replacing the ball joints regardless.

While it's out, should I just go ahead and do a full rebuild with inner and outer axle seals with new Timken unit bearings? I can get all the parts for about $700. Or do you think I'm good to keep using what's in there, given it only has 90k on it?

If I pull out the carrier to swap the inner axle seals, can I put it back in without messing with the backlash? I don't know how to set up gears, and I don't want to take anything apart that will require me to have to redo the backlash. I figure I might as well replace the inner axle seals while I'm here, if it only requires removing 4 bolts for the bearing caps, then replacing them with the exact same shims.

I'll be inspecting each component one by one as I take it out, but it'd sure be nice to just have a fresh pile of parts ready to go in to save a week of waiting around for parts. Part of me wants to just buy all the parts now and have them sitting for me ready in a couple weeks.

Or should I just do the ball joints and outer dust seal and assume the rest is good?

What would you guys do? Remember, this will be my daily driver, and I'll be thousdands of miles away from my big tools should I start to develop a leak or problem. Part of me just wants to completely redo the entire thing once and for all since I have it apart. The other part of me says "I'll be it's good for another 50k, no need to spend the money now."


Also, does anyone have the ford outer axle seal driver tool? I'm only going to use it once in my life, so spending $60 on it seems excessive.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I'm headed off to a 90 mile backpacking trip later this week, so there won't be any more progress on this for a while. That being said, I plan on a big build party when I get back. Dates coming soon, but it'll probably be the 19th and 26th (unless that conflicts with Kurt's build).

 

[airmanwilliams]

I'm headed off to a 90 mile backpacking trip later this week, so there won't be any more progress on this for a while. That being said, I plan on a big build party when I get back. Dates coming soon, but it'll probably be the 19th and 26th (unless that conflicts with Kurt's build).

Sweet. I definately need to come to one of these and do more than watch. If I come again steve I promise to atleast hold a wrench.

 

[Rock Taco]

Is the gear ratio what you need it to be? If not then you have answered your own question.

 

[sixstringsteve]

Depends on what's in my sterling when i get it. If my sterling comes with a 3.73, then I'll keep 3.73s. If I can find a sterling with 4.10s, then i'll swap the fronts to 4.10s. 4.10s would be ideal, but not necessary right now.

When I do the gears, do I have to take the entire axle to someone, or can I just take the carrier? Since the pinion goes in to the axle, I'd imagine I'd need to take the whole thing in.

 

[Rot Box]

If it was me and I were you I would definitely replace the wheel bearings. 90k or not it is 13 years old.. I don't think the carrier needs to come out to do the axle seals. Speaking of which I need to do mine soon :-\

Also take a good look at the front u-joints. Now would be a great time to change them if there's a chance they're worn.

 

[sixstringsteve]

the ujoints are cheap enough, maybe it's a good time to do everything.

From everything I've read, the carrier needs to be removed to do the inner axle seals (the ones in by the diff). Maybe the '99 and older axles are different. If I remove the carrier, does that mess up the backlash? Or should I be ok if I just put it back together the way I took it out?

I'm really leaning toward just rebuilding everything.

 

[idahoyj]

Sounds like you should have just left it at Ufab for a couple more days.

 

[sixstringsteve]

No kidding!. He's a busy man these days. I don't know if he would have time to swap the R&P to 4.10s.

I've decided to replace all the seals and bearings, except for those in the carrier. I'll replace the carrier bearings if and when I regear.

 

[Hickey]

I have the 4.10 gears I pulled from my Powerstroke 10 years ago if you want them. 1997 D60 and Sterling rear. There was nothing wrong with them, I just wanted 3.73's.

 

[Gravy]

Just rebuild your calipers. Much cheaper than new only takes another 30 minutes per side. Unless you're planning a big brake kit.

With 35's and towing: you're definitely going to want 4.10's or some engine tuning.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I don't know if the guts are rusted or not. I've purchased everything except for calipers.

 

[Bart]

I doubt very much that that the guts are rusted (I'm guessing you mean the gears). Yes you have to pull the carrier to get to the inner seals.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I meant the guts of my caliper. THere's no brake line on it, so water was able to go directly in to the caliper.

I agree, my gears should be fine. I AM missing one of the diff cover bolts, but I'm not too worried about water getting in that way. The oil coming out was nice and black and not watery.

 

[sixstringsteve]

My question is, if I pull the bearing caps to get the carrier out, could that affect my backlash?

 

[Pile of parts]

It shouldn't because you wont be removing carrier bearings nor the nut on the pinion. Just mark your bearing caps for each side and which side is up. (put everything back the same way/direction it came off) Torque to spec and you're good.

 

[sixstringsteve]

cool, thanks for confirming that.

I just ordered all my suspension parts. The springs have the longest delay. I won't have them for at least 4-6 weeks. I'l be rebuilding and painting the axle in the mean time, along with trying to source an '05-07 10.5 Sterling, 17" wheels, and some 35s.

I've got to give a huge shoutout to Chris at ujoint offroad. We're partnering together on this build, and he'll be sponsoring us throughout.