- Location
- West Jordan
Build (?) thread...offroad trailer
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
Any lid ideas? Maybe strut assist.
This 90 deg latch would be cool on tail gate. Maybe a safety pin as well. Keeping tail gate tight keeps it quite.
http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalog...rsions/Latch-Toggle-Clamp-Size-900Kg-GH-40344
So the inside dimensions on box?
WMS of axle?
This 90 deg latch would be cool on tail gate. Maybe a safety pin as well. Keeping tail gate tight keeps it quite.
http://www.goodhanduk.co.uk/Catalog...rsions/Latch-Toggle-Clamp-Size-900Kg-GH-40344
So the inside dimensions on box?
WMS of axle?
Not planning on any lid.
I have toggle clamps very similar to what you linked.
They're chinese and smaller than I expected, but I'll try them out. If I don't like them, I can spring for the De-Sta-Co latches.Box is 42"x60" I.D., axle is 60" WMS-WMS.
Got a bit more done! Made and skinned a tailgate, installed nifty hinges and latches, and put some tie-down points along each side.
Took out the springs and let it sit down at full compression, to get the fenders going. Here's where it will sit--1.5" around the tire, just in case I get larger tires at some point in the future. I used my hoist to lift it up and down, made things a LOT faster and easier than using a jack!
Took out the springs and let it sit down at full compression, to get the fenders going. Here's where it will sit--1.5" around the tire, just in case I get larger tires at some point in the future. I used my hoist to lift it up and down, made things a LOT faster and easier than using a jack!
S'more done today. Got fenders on, and tail lights.
You can see my solution for the gap on top of the square-tube fender support--just cut a little filler piece, and capped it off. You can also see the simple light bracket.
And at near full suspension extension, by which I mean an unloaded trailer. It probably won't sink a whole bunch when loaded, depending on what I'm carrying....but at this height you can see the fender and wheel don't really line up. Rest assured they are centered perfectly at full compression though.
I'm getting pretty close to done. Aside from some final welding and cleanup, I think I want to build a little cooler rack/basket in front of the box, on the tongue. That should just about do it!
You can see my solution for the gap on top of the square-tube fender support--just cut a little filler piece, and capped it off. You can also see the simple light bracket.
And at near full suspension extension, by which I mean an unloaded trailer. It probably won't sink a whole bunch when loaded, depending on what I'm carrying....but at this height you can see the fender and wheel don't really line up. Rest assured they are centered perfectly at full compression though.
I'm getting pretty close to done. Aside from some final welding and cleanup, I think I want to build a little cooler rack/basket in front of the box, on the tongue. That should just about do it!
Thursty
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Green River
Very nice work!
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Keep going looks good!
looks good!
scrogg
Enjoying the Drive
- Location
- West Jordan
Looks good Carl. Nicely Done. :thumbs:
Got a little bit more done...picked up some tailgate cables (from an S10 Blazer, if anyone cares what it came from) and got them on. Also added a small gusset to the corner, to hopefully avoid floppy-trailer-sides syndrome.
The cables tuck away nicely when the tailgate is closed.
The next two shots show why I made the box 42" wide inside, rather than some other random dimension.
The cooler fits with about 1/4" of play side to side--I'll put two anchors in the floor just behind the cooler, and run two straps over the lid to hold it in place against the front wall. I'm debating whether to just use two of the same loops I used on the sides, or if they'd get in the way of using the trailer for other uses sometimes. (since I don't know exactly how I'll be using this trailer, after all....) I can weld in a threaded chunk of tube, then bolt something in place when I want to "mount" the cooler...any thoughts?
The cables tuck away nicely when the tailgate is closed.
The next two shots show why I made the box 42" wide inside, rather than some other random dimension.
The cooler fits with about 1/4" of play side to side--I'll put two anchors in the floor just behind the cooler, and run two straps over the lid to hold it in place against the front wall. I'm debating whether to just use two of the same loops I used on the sides, or if they'd get in the way of using the trailer for other uses sometimes. (since I don't know exactly how I'll be using this trailer, after all....) I can weld in a threaded chunk of tube, then bolt something in place when I want to "mount" the cooler...any thoughts?
I use these d rings on most the stuff I build. They are out of the way enough, and so far have held anything I strap to them
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-14-in-cargo-d-ring-anchor-60319.html
We have that same cooler and LOVE it. I cut some nylon sheeting up to fit in the groves inside for little dividers, total awesome
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-14-in-cargo-d-ring-anchor-60319.html
We have that same cooler and LOVE it. I cut some nylon sheeting up to fit in the groves inside for little dividers, total awesome
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jeep-N-montero
Formerly black_ZJ
- Location
- Bountiful
Wow is all I can say, this trailer seems perfectly planned and executed. The D rings that Jeeper linked to would lay flat enough to not snag things in the trailer. So the next question is, what color or colors are you painting the trailer?
I gave some thought to jeeper's little D-rings, but decided not to use them. I'm really trying to keep this trailer quiet, not rattly like every trailer in the world is. So loose D-rings are out. I tapped a couple pieces of tubing, and sunk them through the 1" square crossmember under the floor--they go all the way through and are welded on both sides, so they aren't a spot to let moisture inside the "frame". Here's what it looks like with nothing in the holes:
Apparently I need to go over it with a finer-grit sander. I didn't realize you could see the marks quite that clearly until I looked at the pic!
And here's with the bracket to hook a ratchet strap into:
Made some little zip tie tabs to attach the wiring to. It will run down the outside of the tongue, then through the hole you see, then out the back of that tube underneath. There are more tabs on the bottom, all the way out to the lights. I also welded a couple nuts to the tongue, to keep the hitch insert from banging around. One on the side you can see, and another on the bottom.
Close up of the zip tie tab:
Getting close! Just need to figure out what I want for a tongue jack, finish up a cooler rack/utility spot on the tongue, and off to get coated. And add safety chains. For color, I'll probably do something boring like black or grey. :greg:
So loose D-rings are out. I tapped a couple pieces of tubing, and sunk them through the 1" square crossmember under the floor--they go all the way through and are welded on both sides, so they aren't a spot to let moisture inside the "frame". Here's what it looks like with nothing in the holes:
Apparently I need to go over it with a finer-grit sander. I didn't realize you could see the marks quite that clearly until I looked at the pic!
And here's with the bracket to hook a ratchet strap into:
Made some little zip tie tabs to attach the wiring to. It will run down the outside of the tongue, then through the hole you see, then out the back of that tube underneath. There are more tabs on the bottom, all the way out to the lights. I also welded a couple nuts to the tongue, to keep the hitch insert from banging around. One on the side you can see, and another on the bottom.
Close up of the zip tie tab:
Getting close! Just need to figure out what I want for a tongue jack, finish up a cooler rack/utility spot on the tongue, and off to get coated. And add safety chains.
For color, I'll probably do something boring like black or grey. :greg: