building long arms, and I have a few questions

[Johnny Quest]

so it's time to whip up some arms for under the front of my MJ. The axle is a ford d60, the Jeep has 37's now, but will be stepping up to 39+ next.

Right now we're still figuring things out. Whats a definite is that I'm doing a 3 link w/ pan hard, and the lowers look like theyre going to be in the 32-33" range bolt to bolt. The upper mounts is still at the 'ideas in my head' stage.

I guess a few of my questions are:
A- what link material (size and wall thickness) have you used in the past and how has it held up over time??
B- which joints, and what size would you recommend? I'm liking some of the products from Summit Machine; I've heard good reviews, and I like to support the local guys when I can.
C- joints on both ends, or bushings frame side??
D- I'm leaning (geavily) towards threaded arms vs. weld in bungs, as I have heard that the bungs can rip out, usually at the worst posible time.

 

[I Lean]

so it's time to whip up some arms for under the front of my MJ. The axle is a ford d60, the Jeep has 37's now, but will be stepping up to 39+ next.

Right now we're still figuring things out. Whats a definite is that I'm doing a 3 link w/ pan hard, and the lowers look like theyre going to be in the 32-33" range bolt to bolt. The upper mounts is still at the 'ideas in my head' stage.

I guess a few of my questions are:
A- what link material (size and wall thickness) have you used in the past and how has it held up over time??

That one's tough, since there are SO many options. There are a ton of rigs out there using 1.75" .281 tubing with good success. It's also the perfect size to tap for 1.25"-12 threads without drilling first. I've used 1.75" .375 for a little more bend strength, my current garage-project has 1.75" .375 chromoly.

Unless you go REALLY big, anything you choose can be bent, especially over time.

B- which joints, and what size would you recommend? I'm liking some of the products from Summit Machine; I've heard good reviews, and I like to support the local guys when I can.

Summit's joints are neat. They make them in both thread-in and weld-on, if you don't need adjustment. They have different sizes too, but the most common is the one that's 2 5/8" wide with a 9/16" bolt. (I think that's their "medium" size)

C- joints on both ends, or bushings frame side??

I like bushings on one side, especially on unibodies. Keeps everything quieter. Make sure you use Clevite bushings.

D- I'm leaning (geavily) towards threaded arms vs. weld in bungs, as I have heard that the bungs can rip out, usually at the worst posible time.

I agree on directly-threaded arms. They just look cleaner and neaterer.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

Even though you will lose a small amount of flex with a bushing on one end, you will be happier with them unless you are not having to drive to the trails or on the street much. The noise and vibration in my Jeep sucks with joints on both ends, I am looking at replacing the body ends of my long arms soon with bushings.

 

[red comanche]

On my comanche's long arms i used summits johhny joints and rubber bushings. they've worked great and given me good on and offroad drive ability.

 

[thenag]

I don't have a picture of it but I have a Clayton 3 link Pro front under an xj and the upper link hits the floor at full compression, I had to bump stop it. I also have my diff near my oil pan and my front yoke in my exhaust down tube so I had other reasons to limit the up travel. I could have moved the axle end of the upper down a bit but greater separation is better right?, and like I said I still have to bump stop it for other reasons.
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_info.php/cPath/18_127/products_id/311

post #20 has some front axle pics
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up/page2

I have johnny joints on the front, no bushings, I think most of the noise is from the 37's. It honestly isn't that bad on the 4 hour drive to moab, I thought I would hate it but it is ok.

nathan
99 xj 4.0l, ax15, np231/d300, d60 lockrite, gm 14 bolt detroit, 37 old mtr's
build thread
http://www.rme4x4.com/showthread.php?83436-Nathan-and-Tanja-s-99-XJ-Build-up

 

[Johnny Quest]

On my comanche's long arms i used summits johhny joints and rubber bushings. they've worked great and given me good on and offroad drive ability.

which ones did you use??

Even though you will lose a small amount of flex with a bushing on one end, you will be happier with them unless you are not having to drive to the trails or on the street much. The noise and vibration in my Jeep sucks with joints on both ends, I am looking at replacing the body ends of my long arms soon with bushings.

yea it'll be seeing quite a bit of road time, as i dont have a tow rig right now, or a place to park one; gotta love apartments

I don't have a picture of it but I have a Clayton 3 link Pro front under an xj and the upper link hits the floor at full compression, I had to bump stop it. I also have my diff near my oil pan and my front yoke in my exhaust down tube so I had other reasons to limit the up travel. I could have moved the axle end of the upper down a bit but greater separation is better right?, and like I said I still have to bump stop it for other reasons.

yea upper placement frame side will be interesting. im fine with cutting into the floor if it comes to that. i havent really looked at the oil pan or exhaust clearances yet. everything ive read has said that you want around 8" of vertical separation

That one's tough, since there are SO many options. There are a ton of rigs out there using 1.75" .281 tubing with good success. It's also the perfect size to tap for 1.25"-12 threads without drilling first. I've used 1.75" .375 for a little more bend strength, my current garage-project has 1.75" .375 chromoly.

sweet i'll have to look into ID/OD more. I'd like to go a little bit 'overkill' so i wont have to worry about them when i go bigger in tire size and HP

I agree on directly-threaded arms. They just look cleaner and neaterer.

'neaterer', is that a technical term??

 

[DaveB]

which ones did you use??

When we built them I used the Summit medium flex joint with a threaded collar welded on to mimic the Rubicon Express joints. The arms were made from 1.75 1/4 wall DOM with 2 inch .120 wall over the top. The rods have 1.25 B7 all thread welded in that the jonts screw on to for adjustability. The bushing end was a Summit part that is welded on the end and takes a poly bushing.

 

[red comanche]

if you want you can come look at what i have done for long arms. plus my dad just got done doing long arms on his jeep.

 

[Johnny Quest]

if you want you can come look at what i have done for long arms. plus my dad just got done doing long arms on his jeep.

thatd be sweet!! PM sent

 

[Johnny Quest]

bumping this back up top; in reguards to RH/LH threads, which do i want? since the bushing will be welded into the frame side of the arm (i think), then should it matter if the threads are right or left handed?? sorry for the newb questions

 

[I Lean]

It doesn't matter at all--if you have some joints already, then use whatever you have. If you're buying new, you may as well use RH threads just because that's "standard", so you won't get confused in a couple years when you forget you used LH joints.

 

[Johnny Quest]

i dont have anything yet. still shopping around. and i also need to find somewhere to drill the threads and idiot check my research.

 

[I Lean]

I can help you with that when you're ready.

 

[thenag]

I don't know why they do it but Clayton puts the bushing on the axle side.

nathan
99 xj

bumping this back up top; in reguards to RH/LH threads, which do i want? since the bushing will be welded into the frame side of the arm (i think), then should it matter if the threads are right or left handed?? sorry for the newb questions