Buliding a frame from scratch.?

[OCNORB]

Just wondering if anyone has tackled building a frame for an early jeep? The Willys has a terrible repair on the drivers side spring hanger that has caused more cracking ahead of and behind it. The PO scabbed a peice of 4x4" angle iron on it to make a new spring hanger.

Darrin welded the cracks up, but they are in a tough spot to really get to. I amworried that they will just keep coming back.

I have done alotlottlottlot of research on this. I have drawn up a design I like that integrates YJ springs and a SOA that would be lower than normal by about 2.5". If I can get away with no body lift and have a flat belly skid too, I think it would perform well. I have set the shackle angle at about 50 degrees to start with. I plan to use 2x4x.120 wall. (It will be tied the roll cage to add strength to both.)

Anybody have any advice, constructive criticisms, etc...

 

[I Lean]

My advice....post pics when you're done.

 

[N-Smooth]

http://www.rockymountainextreme.com/showthread.php?t=17618&highlight=building+frame

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334805

here you go

advice... just do it, it shouldn't be that rough if you have the original to look at.
i would rather have a unibody than a cj frame

 

[OCNORB]

So here's a question I have not seen answered in any of the searching I have done. (Remember alotlottlottlotlot)

Attaching the crossmembers. Do you just weld them in and call it good? Won't that lead to cracking later on?

The original frames were designed to flex, and it looks to me as if a lot of the flex comes at the rivet points where the crossmembers attach. I am hoping that the Yj springs will take care of most of the flexing, so what is the best approach??

 

[olywrestle]

think of the concept of a buggy though, everything is welded together as one piece, and not made to flex, instead the flex is done through the suspension...correct me if I am wrong...

 

[OCNORB]

I'll probably just build it rigid... I just wondered if there was a more correct way to attach it.

 

[James K]

build the frame for virtually no flex and tie the cage into it, even in the engine bay.

And let the suspesion to all the flexing.

 

[I Lean]

Build it to be stiff. The box tube you're going to use is already going to be immensely stiffer than the old C-channel frame you're comparing it to. You're basically building a YJ frame instead of a CJ one.

And I agree with James build the cage into it. Like a buggy.

 

[OCNORB]

Well here goes nothing. I decided to do it 66CJDean style.

Started cutting pieces out. This shows the holes for the rossette welds and getting ready to drill the shackle bushings 1.5".

Here is the two front pieces welded.

 

[OCNORB]

Here is the shackle tubes wleded in. Forgive the booger welds.

And a shot of the rossette welds inside.

 

[OCNORB]

I ran out of argon, so I posted these up. Probably won't be able to get more until Monday, but I'll keep posting pics if y'all want me to.

 

[James K]

I ran out of argon, so I posted these up. Probably won't be able to get more until Monday, but I'll keep posting pics if y'all want me to.

Hell yeah, keep'em coming.

you might even win the tech contest

 

[Hickey]

Looking good. Factory Jeep frames suck.

 

[dunatic67]

I have also thought of doing this- it seems I am always chasing cracks. Looks good so far- I'd like to come see it before you install the body.

 

[Badcop]

So here's a question I have not seen answered in any of the searching I have done. (Remember alotlottlottlotlot)

Attaching the crossmembers. Do you just weld them in and call it good? Won't that lead to cracking later on?

The original frames were designed to flex, and it looks to me as if a lot of the flex comes at the rivet points where the crossmembers attach. I am hoping that the Yj springs will take care of most of the flexing, so what is the best approach??

I know on my 63 the crossmembers are bolted in rather than welded in. James nailed it, build it to make the suspension work for the rig not the rig to the suspension. With the welding of the crossmembers in I have just as many cracks on the drilled and bolted ones on the 63 - 5 frame and the 71 - 7 frame here also. You should be allright if you make multiple passes instead of big single passes to keep the heat down and reduce the risk of weakening the steel.

 

[Badcop]

Something I just thaught of, box the original frame with plate steel, inside, out and bottom.

 

[OCNORB]

Something I just thaught of, box the original frame with plate steel, inside, out and bottom.

Too late.

I welded in only the intermediate crossmember for now. The front and rear are held at the right width by some temporary crossmembers that will be removed. I wanted to wait to do the front to make sure everything is going to clear. A set of heavy duty bumpers will also help to keep everything in place.

The spring hangers are not finished yet. Lots to do still.....but I'm having fun.

 

[53 willys]

looks good! at this rate you will be done with yours before my pile ever gets done!! good job

 

[OCNORB]

looks good! at this rate you will be done with yours before my pile ever gets done!! good job

Thanks, That means alot coming from someone that can fab like you do!!!

 

[Rusted]

Looks killer so far. Here is a question. In the photo below isn't the circled area both a stress point and a week point? The weight and flex is pulling from that joint. What can you do to beef it up more, if it even needs it? Fish plate? A larger piece of channel to fit over? Or will it even be a problem?