cage help

im not sure if you guys are getting it.. the come under that bar then over my shoulder.. they were a foot too long and i had no way to shorten them.. so they bolt to the top.. come down behind that bar then up and over my shoulder .. so its exactly the same..

I had the same problem.I ended up carefully cutting the sewn threads to get the tab off and wrapped the belt around the seatbar.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Harness_install/images/IMG_1464_300.jpg
 
Keep in mind I haven't built a cage before, but I have read up quite a bit on the subject. Remember, my opinion is worth what you paid for it (nothing).

THere are really 3 things that worry me, (which you're already aware of)

1) The A pillar isn't tied to the frame
2) The A pillar isn't tied to doors (not so much a worry as wasted weight/tubing). Almost like having 2 cages.
3) This area seems really weak to me:

Jame%27s%20cage.jpg



I know you like a light rig. I think simplifying your cage could really save you a lot of weight. It seems like you have a cage inside a cage. It'd be great to incorporate it all into one and eliminate redundant tubes.

I would go with something like Jeff's, where there's a rear triangle, from the top of the B pillar to the rear end.
dirtsquirrel-titlephoto.jpg
 
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The little bit that I've learned in researching roll cage design is that you have to imagine the forces that'll be acting on the cage.

In my mind, this is the strongest option (ugly, but strongest). In the event of a roll, the downward force on that tubes will be distributed across 2 different tubes. Red arrows represent force.
James%20Cage%203.jpg



This design may look cooler, however, in the event of a roll it is not as safe. The downward force would be distributed across one tube, horizontally. It's just going to bend your door tube. Would you survive a roll with this design? Most likely, but your cage would get bent/tweaked after a hard landing.
James%20Cage%204.jpg



This is what I was talking about in the rear. I don't think the current design is very strong in the rear. Let's pretend you roll. The amount of force going straight down may be too strong for the cage, and bend that corner in (the same reason you're worried about the front corner of the cage).
James%20Cage%205.jpg




In order to strengthen the rear roof, I recommend adding the green bar. It will help distribute the downward force in a roll.
James%20Cage%206.jpg



This part also worries me.
James%20Cage%209.jpg


Think of it as a giant cheater bar on your weld. Just like how we throw a pipe on a wrench when we need more leverage to break a stuck bolt, this design puts more leverage on your weld. The longer that pipe, the more leverage.
James%20Cage%2010.jpg



If it were my vehicle, then I would cut off the rear part behind the B pillar, and just add a triangle like this (green bar). You'd have to solve the issue of your shock hanger, but that'd be easy).
James%20Cage%208.jpg





This picture below looks like overkill to me. I can see how the horizontal bar would help on a side impact, but I don't think you'll see enough force on those corners to bend them in towards the center of the vehicle. Technically, it is stronger with those two ^ bars connecting to the center of the roof. I just don't think the rear of your cage will ever see enough force to require the ^ shaped bars. I guess I'm trying to keep in mind that you want a lightweight rig, and that this would be adding weight to the tallest part of your vehicle. (granted it's still not tall, but you get the point.)
IMG_0813.jpg



I hope that didn't sound condescending or like I'm a know-it-all. We all know I'm not. I'm sure you knew most of this stuff, I just wanted to explain my reasoning.

I wish I could find that amazing article on designing a roll cage. I have looked and looked but I can't find it anywhere. It explained all this stuff MUCH better than I did.
 
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I think sixstring has given you some good advice.

It sounds like your tight on funds, & would like to add some saftey strength.
If you dont want to spend much, steves sugestion for the front pillar is a good one.
(I think that is the area that wories me the most)
His sugestion on the rear triangle is a good one as well, those 2 changes look like they would add the most strength. You may as well make those changes, then if you still want to change the cage you can do it later, (winter)
 
With a $20 harbour freight grinder, you can notch your tubes close enough. Other than that, you just need a welder. I think you could really beef it up for under $100, including your grinder.
 
i've used a harbor freight grinder, notcher, torch and plasma cutter to notch tube. The notcher is actually the least convenient of all of them!
 
ive got jeffs knotcher.. i did the uglier but stronger part for the front.. and i tied the two back corners together. and i think i will add the one going from behind my seat up to the rear corner.. i wouldnt mind doing like steve said he would do if it was his im just not sure how i would do the shock mounts then something would hav eto come up like 6 inches..

and i think if i have that bar giong up to the corner from behind my seat it should help a little for less of a cheater bar effect back there.. and the tubes are welded togeter and then the triangle plates in the corners are weled both sides i really dont think it will go any where thanks for then info and the help.. someday when im not about to get laid off.. i will buy a bender and knotcher and a bunch of tube and re do it the way i want it lol.. i just dont wanta die between then and now..



so i will be tying the a pillar to the frame.. and door area.. and hopefully strengthening that back area up a little also
 
if you had to you can run your air shock off of your link and move your shock mount forward a little bit. you might have to cut out some more of your bed but you could do it that way. shannon campbell runs his air shocks off of his links in there comp buggys and it works great! it just sucks cuz you cant really eliminate that mount cuz it need to be soo high to lift your sami. so either way your still going to have that bar higher than the rest of the bed.
 
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yeah .. if i had full widths it would be easier to .. or even a ifs rear housing.. theres just not alot of room..if i had wider axles i could just have some little hoops coming up off the top of the bed
 
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ive got jeffs knotcher.. i did the uglier but stronger part for the front.. and i tied the two back corners together. and i think i will add the one going from behind my seat up to the rear corner.. i wouldnt mind doing like steve said he would do if it was his im just not sure how i would do the shock mounts then something would hav eto come up like 6 inches..

and i think if i have that bar giong up to the corner from behind my seat it should help a little for less of a cheater bar effect back there.. and the tubes are welded togeter and then the triangle plates in the corners are weled both sides i really dont think it will go any where thanks for then info and the help.. someday when im not about to get laid off.. i will buy a bender and knotcher and a bunch of tube and re do it the way i want it lol.. i just dont wanta die between then and now..



so i will be tying the a pillar to the frame.. and door area.. and hopefully strengthening that back area up a little also



sounds like youve got it figured out. If you were a little closer Id come give ya a hand. (I have a few sticks of tube I could float ya )
If you dont like it you can change it later, when you have a little more $
 
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