Castastrophic Axle Breakage & what to replace it with

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
I think Carl's idea is most logical, get it going with another 44 and swap your parts into it, then build-up another stronger axle, I really like the idea of building the 9" with the true 9 third. That would give you an easily adaptive option (choose your gears, choose your locker, choose the bolt pattern and bolt it all together). The true 9 is pricey at about $1000 but the rest of the axle isn't going to be as much as a 60 would. If you went HP 60 you gotta first ocme up with the center section, then have it retubed, then have it geared and locked and then have the bolt pattern changed, deffinitely all doable but I think it would be as much or more than doing the 9".
 

Milner

formerly "rckcrlr"
Supergper said:
I think Carl's idea is most logical, get it going with another 44 and swap your parts into it, then build-up another stronger axle, I really like the idea of building the 9" with the true 9 third. That would give you an easily adaptive option (choose your gears, choose your locker, choose the bolt pattern and bolt it all together). The true 9 is pricey at about $1000 but the rest of the axle isn't going to be as much as a 60 would. If you went HP 60 you gotta first ocme up with the center section, then have it retubed, then have it geared and locked and then have the bolt pattern changed, deffinitely all doable but I think it would be as much or more than doing the 9".

I agree!
 

bobdog

4x4 Addict!
Location
Sandy
EZRhino said:
OK OK, that is starting to make some sense. Maybe someone here knows the answer to my question on the phone: What is the strength difference between a reverse 60 and a regular 44? And what would I find a reveresed 60 in? (I know, a ford 1 ton ,but all those are being scavenged by front axle swappers. Plus I'd have to re tube it I assume? How does that work?)

EZ
Why the need for a reverse spiral rear? I run a standard 60 in the rear of my 7 and have a great drivline angle (CV shaft) With your extra wheelbase I can not see any reason to give up the 20% ring and pinion strenth (so I have read). I also do not believe that (every thing else being equal) a full floater is any stronger than a semi float rear (unless you are carying a lot more weight than you ever will in a Jeep), but they do have other advantages.
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
bobdog said:
Why the need for a reverse spiral rear? I run a standard 60 in the rear of my 7 and have a great drivline angle (CV shaft) With your extra wheelbase I can not see any reason to give up the 20% ring and pinion strenth (so I have read). I also do not believe that (every thing else being equal) a full floater is any stronger than a semi float rear (unless you are carying a lot more weight than you ever will in a Jeep), but they do have other advantages.

EZ just likes to make his life difficult. :D
 

EZRhino

KalishnaKitty
Location
Sandy, UT
Ok, questions:

Rockrunner, give me the specs of your 9".

Carl...what is a true Hi 9?

BobDog...why reverse 60? Well because it's *cool* of course!! Actually, I was only thinking grond clearance. (And get the driveline up higher).


EZ
 

I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
EZRhino said:
Ok, questions:

Carl...what is a true Hi 9?

BobDog...why reverse 60? Well because it's *cool* of course!! Actually, I was only thinking grond clearance. (And get the driveline up higher).


EZ

http://www.truehi9.com/
As opposed to the Currie high pinion third member that fits into a 9" housing, which uses 8.8 gears. Has no third pinion bearing, and they aren't terribly strong in a rear axle. You know how the 9" has the lowest pinion height of any axle? The Hi9 has the same offset, but now reversed....so it's the highest. Should be pretty strong, but still weaker than a standard 9", all other things being equal.

My standard 60's driveline/pinion is higher than my lower control arms....
 
Top