bull7467

The Yellow Jeep Squad
Location
American Fork
I read thru most of this thread and was wondering how the front behaves on the road. I recently developed Chero-itis and want a little more flex on the front end. Rough country front non adjustable arms leave much to be desired.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I read thru most of this thread and was wondering how the front behaves on the road. I recently developed Chero-itis and want a little more flex on the front end. Rough country front non adjustable arms leave much to be desired.

It hasn't really been on the road. It behaves just fine at freeway speed in dirt though.
:greg:
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
It's been six months since the last update, so it's time to make 1 day's worth of progress.

I took the underside all apart, and rejiggered the transfer case linkage. Lengthened one linkage, shortened another, etc. Now it shifts through all the normal selections from 2 high to 4 low. I cleaned and painted all the rest of the frame plates, the cross members, and the skid plate. I didn't take any pictures of any of that, but I did go to 5 Mile on Sunday, and got some pictures of that.

:)

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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
That is true. I now looked, and saw some pictures. Clicking extra stuff is just so hard though...you can't possibly expect me to do it regularly. -_-
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I have the ground bolt on the motor connected directly to the negative battery terminal, so that should be fine. There is also a ground on the solenoid box. If I disconnect it from everything the solenoids don't click. If I attach it to the ground bolt on the winch motor, any part of the chassis, or directly to the battery the solenoids click, but nothing makes the motor turn. :confused:

The above quote is from 5-22-2009

I finally got it fixed last week.

It turns out when I wired up the winch, I must have cranked too hard on one of the nuts on the top of the motor. It spun the post a little bit, which broke the solder-joint inside the motor. :eek:

I took it to Six States and they got it all fixed up, and didn't even call me a dumb ass (to my face)! I reinstalled it on Friday, and finally got the new rope wound onto it. We are going to try to make it out to the cleanup next weekend, and we'll test the winch on Constrictor. :)

I'm also working on lighting now. I got one of the Arctic Cat lights in place, and I'm afraid I don't like the way it looks. :( I will probably end up getting some round lights with high/low beams.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
:cool: Love it. Glad you are getting out more in it.

I have a small collection of xj parts in my garage I could clean out. I have the oem lights is you want to try to mount those. But you probably got rid of yours on purpose.

Also have the back quarter glass panes if you want an extra set in case you ever bust one out. The are tinted pretty dark though.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
:cool: Love it. Glad you are getting out more in it.

I have a small collection of xj parts in my garage I could clean out. I have the oem lights is you want to try to mount those. But you probably got rid of yours on purpose.

Also have the back quarter glass panes if you want an extra set in case you ever bust one out. The are tinted pretty dark though.

The oem lights are too big to mount in the space I have left. Thanks though! I bet I'll need that glass at some point.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Today I installed the running/turn/hazard lights, with final wiring, and installed some small spot lights in the remaining holes in the bumper. Since I don't have real headlights yet, these spot lights are currently wired to the headlight switch. They are more than sufficient to get me through a night-time trail.

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RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Well, I finally got something installed in the headlight holes. I was planning on using Arctic Cat headlights because I liked the shape. They didn't work out. I wanted to get something in, so I gave in and got some 6" round lights. I'm not terribly thrilled with how they look. I may replace them at some point, but for now they will work. The Hella Black Magic lights would probably blend in better than these.

I also replaced a mysteriously bent tie-rod end. I really need a high-steer knuckle on the passenger side. Anyone got one that will fit a Bronco 44 they want to get rid of cheap?

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Bart

Registered User
Location
Arm Utah
I have a 44 right side flat top knuckle for sale. I even have a set of Black Magics I may sell. BTW, I think the lights look decent.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
We ran the snakes trails again Saturday. The Jeep again worked great.

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I turned down Gravesdiggerxj's winch at the Eagles Nest because I really wanted to try mine.:eek: It worked great, and I ended up taking his place and winching the next four vehicles up.

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Today I noticed that my passenger side tie rod end is just a little bent again.:( I'm not sure what's causing them to bend, but I'm guessing it has something to do with the steep drag link angle. I've been really looking at the Reid Ford high-steer knuckles. I think I'm going to end up ordering one of those and run crossover steering with the tie rod in the stock position, and the drag link to a high-steer arm. I need to tear down the front end to clean and paint it anyway, so I'll probably replace the knuckle at the same time.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
My MM8000 is soooo slow compared to yours.

Good call on getting a Reid Ford knuckle:
by the time you track down a Chevy ps knuckle, have it machined, drilled and tapped, get a small bearing spindle, etc...
you've spent a lot of time and only a little less money to have mis-matched parts.

You may have to notch the ps "frame rail" to get the same up travel though.
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
My MM8000 is soooo slow compared to yours.

Good call on getting a Reid Ford knuckle:
by the time you track down a Chevy ps knuckle, have it machined, drilled and tapped, get a small bearing spindle, etc...
you've spent a lot of time and only a little less money to have mis-matched parts.

You may have to notch the ps "frame rail" to get the same up travel though.

I wonder if Reid can sell me a knuckle that's been drilled, but not reamed. I probably want to ream the tie rod arm from the top. I don't think I'll have to notch the frame. Maybe a little, but it shouldn't be too tough. The worst part will be building new track bar mounts.
 

mesha

By endurance we conquer
Location
A.F.
I wonder if Reid can sell me a knuckle that's been drilled, but not reamed. I probably want to ream the tie rod arm from the top. I don't think I'll have to notch the frame. Maybe a little, but it shouldn't be too tough. The worst part will be building new track bar mounts.

I will make a phone call to Reid tomorrow to answer that question.:)
 
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