Compressed air lines in shop

[chadschoon]

I did use solder (hence the reference to tinning flux). I was just responding to Kurt's use of braze. Sorry for the confusion. I will correct it above.

No worries I was just wondering if people were actually brazing them

 

[BCGPER]

You can use Oyy/Acetylene, but you don't need to. A hand held propane torch will work just fine. If you want, I have everything here you could use. (Oh, I have the cutters and threaders for steel too, if you decide to go that route)

 

[Corban_White]

Like BC said, you can use either. Really any heat source will be fine. There is a slight danger when using O/A because the flame will melt the copper if you are not careful. No such danger with MAPP or propane. This is the perfect time to get experience since an air leak doesn't do nearly the damage that a water leak does. And with the tinning flux there is almost no chance of having a problem. After the first 10 joints you will be a pro.

 

[lewis]

My shop at work is done in black pipe. Probably 15 yrs olds and just about every joints leaks.

 

[Tacoma]

to have it out of galvanized that I don't have to worry about crushing?

If you're hitting it with a forklift, galvanized will crush pretty easy, too. Besides, if you're hitting the pipe, you're hitting the wall.

Get the more-easily-repaired pex, and watch where you're driving. Spend the $70 on used air tools, gas for the dirtbikes, etc etc.

 

[MikeGyver]

Personally, I would Only do copper, especially inside a finished wall. Soldered joints will never leak. Brass fittings can also be soldered to copper. Solder a brass 1/4" NPT bung into a copper Tee, and screw in a quick coupler, done. Don't forget to incorperate a ball valve in a low spot for draining condensation.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

So, assuming I do copper or galv or whatever. Size? Most large compressors have 3/8" NPT out, most tools and commons hoses are 1/4" NPT right? I guess I could bust out my Fluids books and figure out the head loss through fittings but assuming cost is pretty equal, is there any reason to distribute the 1/4" rather than just stay 3/8" until the fitting on the wall (which will likely be reels that take 3/8" on the bigger ones).



Next question, hose reels. Any suggestions? Evco was $275 - $350 for each reel, high quality but damn that is as much as the the compressor.

 

[Tacoma]

Good hose reels are ridiculously pricey... I always wanted one when I was pressue-washing, but could never justify it... the swivel had to stay sealed under the 5k psi heh... something about that was expendive. I suspect that's probably the case w the air reels too.

 

[4x4_Welder]

For those who doubt:

This happened overnight in a system that was always left pressurized. Pieces were embedded in the wall and ceiling, and the main chunk that blew off was under a bench on the other side of the shop. It kicked so hard that it broke an elbow on the other end of the run as well. The compressor burned up due to running all night.
OSHA also forbids the use of PVC in air systems. I have worked in shops with both galvanized and copper, both new and with 15-30years of use, and either works great. Galvanized pipe will corrode over time, but it then leaks, it doesn't blow up.

As far as size, 3/4 is good. 1/2 works, but the larger size allows less resistance, plus adds air storage capacity.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Wow, thats wild. So it does actually happen

Copper or Galv are leading the pack.

 

[I Lean]

The copper I have stacked in the corner waiting for installation is 1/2". For what that's worth.

 

[Corban_White]

Instead of hose reels I used these:

I put a quick connect every 10 feet except where it would have been behind something as well as at both sided of the door and I have one of those hoses at every coupler. I also have some regular air hose should I need a longer length. Not as spiffy as reels but it sure was a whole lot less $$$. This also has the advantage of never having air hose strung out in the shop. To work on one side of a vehicle or whatever I use a coupler/hose on that side. When I need to go to the other side rather than drag the hose I just unhook the tool and hook it up on the other side. Keeps things very neat. It also decreases the length of smaller diameter hose.

 

[jevyguy]

Instead of hose reels I used these:

I put a quick connect every 10 feet except where it would have been behind something as well as at both sided of the door and I have one of those hoses at every coupler. I also have some regular air hose should I need a longer length. Not as spiffy as reels but it sure was a whole lot less $$$. This also has the advantage of never having air hose strung out in the shop. To work on one side of a vehicle or whatever I use a coupler/hose on that side. When I need to go to the other side rather than drag the hose I just unhook the tool and hook it up on the other side. Keeps things very neat. It also decreases the length of smaller diameter hose.

I like his idea, but sometimes a hose reel is needed.

Here are a couple of options for a pretty good reel, nothing fancy

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_air-tools+air-hoses-reels

 

[BCGPER]

My HF reel has served me well for about 15 years now, and it was pretty cheap.

Good hose reels are ridiculously pricey... I always wanted one when I was pressue-washing, but could never justify it... the swivel had to stay sealed under the 5k psi heh... something about that was expendive. I suspect that's probably the case w the air reels too.

 

[Herzog]

I like to keep coiled hoses handy with the hose on reel. Make's it much easier if you need to quickly use air at a distance and don't feel like unreeling & reeling back in the air hose.

 

[Unimog]

So, assuming I do copper or galv or whatever. Size? Most large compressors have 3/8" NPT out, most tools and commons hoses are 1/4" NPT right? I guess I could bust out my Fluids books and figure out the head loss through fittings but assuming cost is pretty equal, is there any reason to distribute the 1/4" rather than just stay 3/8" until the fitting on the wall (which will likely be reels that take 3/8" on the bigger ones).

I'd do 1/2" on the lines - even larger if you are running over 100ft. Otherwise, you will have a huge pressure drop when using any tool that takes a lot of air (impact, drill, air grinder, etc).

 

[SLC97SR5]

FWIW, I prefer the hand crank reels opposed to the fancy ratcheting/self-retract style.

They are more durable, less expensive and dont require the yanking from across the shop to get that last 10'. It's also easier on the reel when you repair a hose as the copper splice does not interfere with any moving parts.

 

[MikeGyver]

Instead of hose reels I used these:

Good idea unless you notice your air tools mysteriously moving acros the floor by themselves