crawl ratio

Not really most stock gears are not very low in the transfer case, unless you could find a 4:1 transfercase out of a Rubicon umlimited! I don't remember if you need a adapter but if you could pull one from a wrecked rubicon you would save lots of money, other wise you have to buy gears for any transfer case or do a doubler, but once again adapters and another case would most lilkey end up almost as expensive, but it just depends if you can find deals or not, i might be able to save you some cash on the SYE
 
id call around to local shops then shop online sometimes local is better but online has some sweet deals, check with sixstates and 4wheelparts, and amazon.com
 
You don't have an AX-15....4 bangers came with an AX-5. (although I think the first gear is the same ratio between the two, so the calcs still work)
 
Good call Carl i didnt even think about it, in that case the before is 54.64 and with the 4:1 it's 80.64 the AX-5 has a little lower first but not much
 
skippy said:
ok after i get a SYE for the 231 and a 4-1 kit im almost 1200 bucks is there a better option for a t-case thats i will come out cheaper on and get a lower gear ratio
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Atlas is about $2000 (give or take a few hundred depending on what you want/need and the vendor). Gives you front/rear dig, various ratios available and an excellent reputation. I've got about $900-1000 in my Dana 300 and if I had it to do over again, I'd buy the Atlas and be done.
 
my 4runner has a buitl 3rz/w56/duals with 4.7's in the rear and 4.88 axle gears
so 3.95x2.28x4.7x4.88=206 to 1 crawl ratio, and it works great with 35's
gives me controll in the rocks.

my fj80 has a vortec 4.3/4l60e/atlas 4.3/4.56 1tons
so 3.06x4.3x4.56=60 to 1 crawl ratio on 42's
i will eventually swap the axle gears to 5.38's
 
Mine is a stock Unimog 416 = 3.14 Diff, 2.08 Portal, (6.52 combined), 14.53 First gear = 95.0 overall. This is usually just right with 43's.

Some day, I would like put in high speed portal gears and change from a 6-speed to a 20-speed tranny. This would make it a little nicer on the highway and still maintain a nice crawl ratio:
3.14 Diff, 1.8 Portal, (5.65 combined), 14.53 First gear, 42.9 Crawler = 3523:1
 
NP 231 to 300

YROC co. said:
spaticus theres the 231dual case set up or the 231/300 dual case setup.
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I have heard about it but not sure on the price range, i think any dual set up is sweet, but in the case of skippy i just don't if that is the most cost effective, but that said if he gets a 300 for cheap and then the adapter it would allow him to save money on upgrading the 231. Does anyone know the price, roughly, on doing this set up?

I mentioned having him do a doubler but that also adds drivline mods and cross member mods that is also why i didn't think it cost effective
 
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sparticus19 said:
I have heard about it but not sure on the price range, i think any dual set up is sweet, but in the case of skippy i just don't if that is the most cost effective, but that said if he gets a 300 for cheap and then the adapter it would allow him to save money on upgrading the 231. Does anyone know the price, roughly, on doing this set up?

I mentioned having him do a doubler but that also adds drivline mods and cross member mods that is also why i didn't think it cost effective
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"good deals"= minimum cost for such item?

$200---dana 300
free---231 (assuming you already have it)
$600--adapter gadget to use the front piece of the 231 and mate to the D300
$200--Dana 300 HD output rear shaft
______________


$1000



...... So you're half way to an Atlas and have a LONG setup that might not package well depending on your wheelbase?

I have a D300 and would encourage peeps to look at the aftermarket cases. If I had it to do over again, I'd go there.
 
mbryson said:
"good deals"= minimum cost for such item?

$200---dana 300
free---231 (assuming you already have it)
$600--adapter gadget to use the front piece of the 231 and mate to the D300
$200--Dana 300 HD output rear shaft
______________


$1000



...... So you're half way to an Atlas and have a LONG setup that might not package well depending on your wheelbase?

I have a D300 and would encourage peeps to look at the aftermarket cases. If I had it to do over again, I'd go there.
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Don't forget, if you're a 231 guy that means you're a driver's side diff front axle...so add in a flip kit for the D300, whatever that costs and adds to hasslefactor.
 
I Lean said:
Don't forget, if you're a 231 guy that means you're a driver's side diff front axle...so add in a flip kit for the D300, whatever that costs and adds to hasslefactor.
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and there's another $200-400 if you're drivers drop. That's just parts cost. Doesn't sound like a good deal to me?
 
so back to square one i see, no D300 for cost effective, but i think a 231 doubler might not be bad option but i still think a roctrac 4:1 out of a rubicon would be cheapest but i think we will let skippy decide
 
sparticus19 said:
so back to square one i see, no D300 for cost effective, but i think a 231 doubler might not be bad option but i still think a roctrac 4:1 out of a rubicon would be cheapest but i think we will let skippy decide
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If you can get one out of a Rubicon for about $700 or less, I'd go for it. The 231 doubler isn't a bad option if you have a couple. The 231/D300 option isn't bad if you've got both of those. If you're starting from scratch, it gets a little more interesting.

I've got a Chev powertrain (TBI 350/700R4) and have used a Novak adapt adapter and spud shaft to mate to a D300. There's about $400. I've broken the stock rear output (no surprise) and coughed up another $300ish for that. I think I paid $250 for the D300. I'm not in horrible shape $ wise, but think I'd have been $ ahead to just buy an Atlas with the gear ratio that would work for me. I'm still running the 2.62 ratio in low range with 4.56 gears and 40" Kevlar MTRs. I don't know what my "crawl ratio" is, but it's respectable with a 36" tire and isn't that great with the 40" tires.
 
Crawl

I havent talked to him in awhile but maybe he will comment on here, i think the doubler would be to much money for what you get. And a 4:1 puts him pretty low, especially if he ends up replaceing the transmission:(


I thought about doing a doubler on my yota for a long time but, when you factor in:
buying or making a doubler crossmember=$300
two transfer cases=$50 to $150 each
a doubler adapter plate=$325
for me a V6 auto adapter to gear transfer case=$550
twin stick=$189
driveshaft monds=$300
and tunnel mods=$10 in cutting disc's Thats a totalof $1774 bucks give or take
It's really not worth it for me with a auto tranny, because a 4.7:1 transfer gets me the samething just not the option of two low gears but i never see me needing it

So my point is when your deciding on a crawl ratio, and what set up to go with, and your going to be rockcrawling mostly then you really need to weigh all the costs and options. I can put a 4.77 atlas geared toyota transfercase on my current set up for $990 and have a 55:1 crawl which is not to bad with a auto. Or i can spend almost 1800 dollars on a doubler.

Skippy is in kinda the same boat but his 4:1 teraflex kit is 1200 bucks so i adds up a little quicker for him:greg:
 
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