Communication/Audio:
Basic Specifications:
Yaesu 2M Ham Transceiver
Cobra CB Transceiver
Alpine DVD system w/ XM Satellite Radio
Byonics Micro-Track Vehicle Tracking System
Notes:
Choosing electronics can be a major headache, I don't deal with them on a daily basis like other vehicle accessories so when it came time to choose my components I made a few calls to those that do, Ratio Electronics and Communication Products. Between the two I had a game plan for a dialed in system that handled not only my current needs but future needs as well. The Yaesu ham radio units are time proven and reliable radios, simple as that. I wanted a small unit, the Yaesu FT-1500M fit the bill and was in fact small enough that I was able to mount it in the location of the stock ash-tray, out of the way and visible for the driver and passenger. My mounting took several hours with the dash torn apart and I no longer have an ash tray, but the simple and clean install was well worth the cons and I have a console with plenty of room for the inevitable junk that would have ended up in the ashtray. To keep up with the clean and un-cluttered approach to electronic mods, I went with the Cobra 75WXST CB radio, having had it in my previous Tacoma I like the way they mount for the most part behind the dash and when not in use the mic can be stashed in the console or glovebox leaving just a single connector visible. The Alpine DVD/Stereo system came about due to the fact my factory head unit failed, when removing it from the dash, dust was literally dumped out of every hole in the thing, I'm sure leading to its demise. I must admit its been nice to watch a movie while waiting out a rainstorm in the mountains or my wife in the mall. I've since added satellite radio and an IPOD interface to the setup, allowing me to have music in the middle of nowhere or listen to my favorites off the IPOD, all controlled by the head unit.
Canyonlands Maze District, Utah
The APRS tracking system is the latest electrical addition to the truck. By utilizing 2M ham radio repeater system, the APRS (Automatic Packet Reporting System) sends out a digitized GPS coordinate and time stamp to a 2M ham repeater every few minutes. That repeater in turn basically re-broadcasts that coordinate and time to digital systems, allowing the real-time location of the truck to be viewed by anyone with internet access. For example I can be in the middle of the Nevada desert out of cell phone range but my wife back home can see exactly where I am and good or bad can even see how fast I am driving. Other uses include allowing late parties to catch up to our group or see where we camped that evening and it allows me to view my track when I'm back in front of a computer. The system can be disabled at will and for those wanting more from the APRS system it can even send outgoing status messages or other data. You can read more about the APRS system on wiki here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_Packet_Reporting_System
Dash/Coms Layout (Photo by Johnny Lange)
Performance/Accessories:
Basic Specifications:
TRD Supercharger
Helton Hot Water Shower System
Safari Snorkel
ARB CKMA12 Air compressor
ARB Freezer-Fridge
Notes:
As mentioned the supercharger was not a deal breaking accessory I needed or wanted to have when truck shopping, however in hindsight I don't know that I would have it any other way. The 1st generation Tacoma Double-Cab is only available in an automatic transmission package, and while the automatic transmissions are fairly bulletproof they rob much needed power particularly on a heavy laden truck spinning large tires. Many choose to re-gear the axles to get the power back however the supercharge more than makes up for the power loss, allowing me to easily maintain speeds even up the steepest grades and headwinds. My ideal package would be a manual truck with the supercharger but it just wasn't an option and truth be told I've really come to love the automatic.
Where to start with the snorkel, either you like them or you don't. For me the priority of additions has far less to do with aesthetics and far more to with practicality and sometimes that practicality means planning for things that 'could' happen, even if rare. Snorkels don't only allow for an increased water fording depth but they also allow for cleaner, cooler air to your engine. I recently wrote a snorkel specific article for the Tacoma Magazine, you can read that article here:
http://www.tacomamag.com/rokstories-frontpage/february-2011-volume-1-issue-1
Fremont River - Outlaws Run (Photo by Perry Loughridge)
The Helton Hot Water Shower system is typically able to heat water upwards of 150 degrees, far too hot for a shower. A typical installation utilizes a manual control valve under the hood that limits the amount of coolant entering the heat exchanger. Rather than use the manual control valve I opted to mount the heat exchanger inline with stock heater control valve controlled by the knob on the dash and used to control the heater temperatures inside the cab. In this manner I am able to adjust my shower output temps using my dash controls with no tangible side effects on the stock heater system. Showers are just 'one of those things', sorta like a 12V fridge or a portable welder. Until you need one or use one, they have little or no real value to you. Well I can promise you I've sold more showers by loaning out a bar of soap and some hot water than I have giving my sales spiel to a would be customer, simply put they sell themselves when in use. My wife was the first one to say
"we'll never use that thing", after having installed one under the hood of my FJ40, fast forward five years and she is the one hooking the thing up at the end of a dusty day on the trail. Even a good face wash down is a godsend.
Skyline Drive, Utah
I've bounced back and forth between CO2 and actual mounted compressors, I came close to mounting a CO2 bottle in the bed of the Tacoma as I had with my older truck but it just doesn't work for the way I often load this truck, taking up precious space in an already limited short-bed truck. For the time it would just stay packed away in a Pelican case, neither convenient nor space saving but I had convinced myself I would find a better solution. That solution ended up being a different air source altogether, an ARB CKMA12 compressor. Again I had a fair amount of experience with these through customer installs since they were first introduced a few years back but I'm still running an older ARB RDCKA in my FJ40 so it wasn't something I had personally used over and over. I wired it to a water-proof switch in my fuse block/dual battery solenoid panel under the hood, that way I can turn it on and off without needing keys in the ignition and even if left on its air-tight so it will just cycle for a few seconds and turn off. The compressor has proven completely adequate for airing up tires but on a recent float trip I realized I'm not quite done with my love affair of CO2 as the volume available from this compressor was a grim attempt at filling rafts/tubes. No doubt I will leave the compressor mounted under the hood but I'm still loosely considering a CO2 mount as well. (Update: ARB recently introduced a new continuous duty air compressor with double the output of my CKMA12, I had known it was in the works for quite some time but with it finally on the market I might yank the medium in favor of the new offering)
The fridge, where to start. Some might consider this a general accessory however I consider it an appliance and its spends enough of its life in the back of the truck to be considered a permanent fixture. 12V Freezer-Fridges -
Do they bring the heat?
Let there be heat -
Helton Hot Water/Shower System
Parts Acquisition:
I'm fortunate to have many of these parts 'on the shelf' at my shop (
Cruiser Outfitters) so when it comes time to update or repair something I don't have to look to far. The National Luna and Front Runner products came from my good friend Paul at Equipt Expedition Outfitters, the communication gear came from Communication Products and the stereo audio-video setup came from the king of wires, Ryan at Ratio.
Repairs & Failures:
Steering Rack: I've gone through 3 now, one of which had horrible play right out of the Toyota box, we didn't even get it installed before we were pulling it back off to swap with another Toyota re-manufactured unit. When I replaced the first rack I installed the Energy Suspension Poly Bushings and have swapped them to the subsequent racks. I'm adequately satisfied with the OEM new steering racks but I've been less than satisfied with the quality and longevity of the re-manufactured steering racks. I should note that on stock height trucks or lifted trucks seldom used off-road, the steering racks seemingly last indefinitely. However add a taller suspension thus increased tie rod angles combined with larger tires and heavy off-road use and they will likely need replacement every 30-50k miles. It should be noted they don't fail outright, rather they get sloppy and you'll note loose steering. So while they might get a bit loose they are not likely to leave you stranded or yield the truck un-driveable.
CV Shafts: Started clicking at turns at 90,000 miles, these were replaced by the dealership with OEM reman's under the 100k factory warranty. Clicking is gone but following the CV replacement I started dealing the leaking at the diff seals. Along with the steering rack issues, CV axle issues are directly proportional to the suspension lift, a necessary evil for my cases particularly since 90,000 miles and still working albeit 'clicky' is adequate for me, 55,000 of those miles were with the lift installed. While increased CV axle wear is common on lifted vehicles, more common is CV boot tearing or rips. Thankfully neither of which are prone to leave you stranded and will give you plenty of notice before needing attention.
CV/Diff Seals: My issues started when the dealer warrantied the CV shafts. Since this time I've had to replace the passenger side CV/diff seal on the passenger side a couple of times. The dealer warrantied their work the first two times but I decided to address it myself. I actually installed a second seal in the passenger differential tube, so far so good but they usually don't leak for ~10k miles. Its not a common issue and I've yet to run across a customer having similar issues on identical built Tacoma's. Jury is still out on why I was dealing with so many leaks.
Fan Blower Motor: The unit started squeaking fairly badly and subsequently failed. When I took it out I found it packed with dust, my guess is all those days running in the desert with the windows down finally did it in. Replaced with an OEM blower. The relatively low cost repair took only a few minutes, in hindsight I should have tried to swap the bearings on the blower but I was in a hurry to get out on a trip and didn't want to be annoyed by a squeaky blower motor.
Idler Pulley: Not sure if the abrupt angle of the super charger belt caused this to fail but it was howling pretty good and thus replaced with a new OEM pulley when the 90k service was performed. Low cost and easy to replace.
Clocking Spring: The clocking spring in my steering column failed, which then causes the cruise control to be non-operational. This could have been result of improper alignment when one of the racks was replaced but it failed quite some time after a rack replacement. Replaced with an OEM unit in a matter of minutes. The failure left my cruise control and drivers air bag inoperable. So while it was annoying and unsafe, it didn't affect the remaining operation of the truck.
Motor Mount/Frame Failures: I was greeted to a nasty grinding noise when trying to climb a rocky hillside one weekend, the sure signs of a failed motor mount. The rear motor mount wasn't completely failed but the rubber was cracking away from the mount and I went ahead and replaced it with an OEM unit. Things were not quite so easy up front, the rubber and mount looked great on the passenger side however the driver side was not only showing signs of cracking rubber but worse yet the frame had actually cracked where the motor mount attaches. By removing the mount and several other parts in the area, I was able to remove all of the broken mount and replaced the ~1/16" steel with a 3/16" mount, fully welded to prevent any further issues. I replaced that rubber mount with an OEM and I've considered that issue 100% resolved.
Broken motor mount
Trans code: I had a trans code (P0741) that left me stumped. The only symptom was felt like a slight engine miss at high RPM's and it was tsomething only I noticed, others driving the truck thought it was fine... all in my head? I consulted with several Toyota pro's and came up with some different theories but in the end I replaced the valve body assembly in the trans as well as pulled the injectors and had them balanced and cleaned. While the supercharger was off I performed the oil change on the nosecone using the TRD kit. Put it all back together and it has been code free and running great.
You'll note that all of the failures and repairs I've had to deal with chalk up preventive with the exception of the frame motor mount. I've by no means been easy on this truck and while the frame mount failure was a pain, it was rather easily resolved and would not have ever left me stranded. (Non-standard repairs, things like timing belt, drive belts, hoses, water pump, etc are all considered standard wear, these were what I would consider non-standard failures)
Home away from home - Floatapalooza in the San Rafael Swell
Future Plans:
Good question. With my recent 100 Series Land Cruiser project complete the Tacoma is in a stage of limbo. I'll hang onto it until it as long as I have trips to take it on or I find a good home for it. [Edit: New home has been found] Until then I'll continue with the routing maintenance and preventive maintenance. My plan was to keep this truck for 3-4 years and here I'm rolling up on the 7 year mark so I'm behind schedule.
Exploring Southern Utah