CV or non CV driveshafts?

[Cody]

So I'm getting ready to order an Atlas and I want to know which type of yoke to have on it. I am currently running 1310 CV driveshafts and have broken the rear a couple times (actually, I twisted the splines once and then blew up the 'H' block part of the CV last year). I've never blown a joint though.

My question is this--are non CV shafts stronger than CV shafts? I know they are slightly cheaper. Tom Woods was in AZ last weekend with us and he recomended going to a CV style shaft because the non cv shaft loads/unloads stress on the joint and causes fatigue and failure or something technical like that. I'm not particularly sure I can explain it but when he was explaining it it seemed to make sense.

So are CV better or worse? Also, my rig seldom sees high speeds and almost never sees highway so I'm not bothered by mild vibration.

Cody

 

[Caleb]

good question, I am about to order a rear shaft too...so I'll be watching what others have to say...I don tknow much about shafts...

where's Andy when you need him

 

[Herzog]

Good questions... at the time I ordered my atlas, I wasn't using my rig for highway use either, but my choice for going with CV's front and rear was because of my driveline angles. I figured with the angles they were at (no where near binding) that a single u-joint setup would wear faster. I am yet to break any of my CVs...

When the atlas arrived, I went ahead and order a set of new CV flanges from Tom Woods to use instead of the yokes. I did this in case I wanted to step up to larger joints in the future, I wouldn't have to change out my yokes on the atlas, among other reason... The Tom Woods flanges are drilled to accept a few different size mating flanges.

 

[troutbum]

I have a 1350 CV in the rear and a brand spanking new 1410 non-cv in the front.
I was having a hard time keeping 1310's alive.

I think what Tom said makes sense for a high speed application, but I wonder if you would really see increased wear on a non-cv at crawling speeds?? Not to mention the actual miles the joint will see. I would say if your pinion is pointed up go CV if not don't. I just hate the vibes

 

[Andy]

Cody, your angles will dictate what will work best. For you I would recommend a 1350 CV rear because of the 9" rear and possibly a 1350 u-joint front ( High pinion). As for what Tom was explaning, a u-joint has to straighten out twice through a full revolution, that is usually what will give you vibs.

Andy

 

[Cody]

1350 would be nice, but I don't think I break enough shafts to warrent changing everything out to the more expensive 1350 stuff. I could carry a couple spares and probably come out ahead still. Plus I'm trying to do this Atlas conversion thing on a budget and I think 1350 would break it.

Since I rebuilt my shaft in the City Market parking lot with a spicer cv (which I found out is not compatible with whatever was in it so I had to find other random driveline parts--it was an adventure to say the least)I havn't had any problems and I've only been increasingly rough on it. My front shaft is still stock and I've never had problem 1 with it so I don't know that 1350 is worth the investment. However, I don't know how much it will change when I start front diggin around places which I can't imagine is easy on parts.

What you said about the joint is what Tom was referring to as well which makes sense.

I had myself convinced to go non cv, but I think I'm just going to stick to the CV's use my frankenstein rear driveline and my stock front as spares and have new ones built. Man I hope my tax return gets here quick....

Cody